Maybe I'm crazy..........Hasselblads

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coriana6jp

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Hi All,

Been looking and reading various threads about Hassys for a while now. All my MF shooting has been on Mamiya, Fuji and Bronica cameras up until now. I especially like my Mamiya 7II and RZ67s.

I have had a strange desire to try out a Hasselblad for a while now. Honestly I have no idea what would be a good model to get, what to avoid, etc, etc.

Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx!

Gary
 

kunihiko

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Hi Gary,

No, you are not crazy. Hassy is always a way to go.

Any 500 series models should work fine. What to avoid would be 500C without interchangeable screen feature and early 503CX which has some material problem inside the box.
If you were to do flash photography 503CX with TTL would be nice.
If you were to shoot telephoto lens 503CW or 501CM should be better.
If you would like to have a motor drive go to 503CXi or 503CW.

Otherwise, the 500CM is good enough and reasonably priced. 10 man-yen and bit more for a body with a WL finder, A12 back and C80mm is average price here in Japan. Buying from KEH would be cheaper even with shipping, but a warranty should be considered.
I would recommend to have it CLAed. VH pictures in Ebisu is well known technician.
I bought mine from Fujiya in Nakano. It had a little problem so I had it CLAed in VH pictures for free.

Have fun with a hassy. My 500CM has become what I can't live without.
 

magic823

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I just got an older 500el with 3 lenses and I'm having a blast. I love Zeiss glass.
 

kunihiko

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Gary,
This is what I wrote a couple of years ago.
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Sorry it's in Japanese language, but I know you can read:smile:
 
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coriana6jp

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Thanks for the info!!!! Its greatly appreciated.

Kunihikoさん。

本当にありがとうございました。 Actually I am going to Tokyo in two weeks, and will stop by Ohba and Fujiya Camera. I took at look and the going rate seems to be about 12 to 14man en depending upon the camera.

A 500cm seems to be a good first choice. Thanx again, your article was very helpful!

Gary
 

nicolai

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Well, it's not always the way to go... no camera is perfect in all situations. The mirror slap is strong, so if you're after sharpness, you can pretty much consider 1/125 your minimum shutter speed for handheld, and it's LOUD, so it's bad for people candids and horrible for animals.

But it is a generally butt-kicking system!
 

Amund

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Well, it's not always the way to go... no camera is perfect in all situations. The mirror slap is strong, so if you're after sharpness, you can pretty much consider 1/125 your minimum shutter speed for handheld, and it's LOUD, so it's bad for people candids and horrible for animals.

But it is a generally butt-kicking system!


Yep, for handheld shooting I don`t like Hasselblad at all, at least not the C T* lenses, way to hard to focus quickly with them. When I changed to Bronica my rate of shaply focused shots increased enormously.
The newer CFE lenses is supposed to be much smoother, but they do cost you a LOT more.
 

Amund

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I use a 501cm handheld in low light all the time - and like the results.

I certainly don`t doubt that Nicole, I like your results too :smile:
Wich type of lens(es) are you using?
 

Sirius Glass

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Warning!!

Handling a Hassy can be hazardous to your bank account!! :surprised: :surprised: :surprised: :surprised: :surprised:

Proceed with Caution!

Steve
 

david b

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There is a reason that Hasselblad has been around since the late 40's and that they are still in business.

As for deciding what to buy, figure out your budget first.

And make sure to buy CF or newer lenses.
 

HenrikB

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Hi,

you can determine the mfg year of all Hasselblad equipment (except lenses, use Zeiss numbers) by the following formula:

VHPICTURES
1234567890

All serial numbers start with 2 letters, e.g. UI 155768 where UI=74 (mfg 1974), a serial number with ET=96 i.e. 1996 etc. Good to know when you're shopping around.

Note that the film mags are numbered on both the "insert" and the "shell", these numbers should MATCH, no matter if someone tells you differently.

I previously posted this point-of-view, I have used both 500 and 200 series extensively for 10+ years:

I would fullheartedly recommend the 201F body - even if you use it only with C/CF lenses.

Why? First of all, it's a more modern design and different mirror mechanism, which means you get the full view regardless of focal length - I use the CF350 with 2x extender, no problem.

You also get much more solid mechanics (compared to the 500 body) when attaching a Winder F, if you would like to do that in the future.

You also get a self timer built in. Great in some pinches.

Last but not least, you can use the central shutter in the C/CF lenses (setting the time dial on the 201F to C) which is what I do most of the time to reduce vibrations etc, just as with a 500 body.

But you can also choose to use the 201F's electronic shutter, where you set the CF lens in the "F" position and then the shutter speed on the 201Fs time dial. This gives you shorter shutter speed (1/1000) and more importantly, the mirror bounces back directly after the exposure so that you only get a brief "blackout", as in a 35mm SLR. Especially for fast shooting conditions (wildlife, motorsports, etc) but also great when taking portraits since you get more time to react to the subject and also to focus. The 500's go black in the finder until you cock the shutter, which is fine too in most situations.

And you get the TTL and option to use the great F lenses as well (a 50/2.8 and 110/2 and 2x extender will be a very compact and high performing kit).

Last but not least, the 200 bodies do not lock up like the 500 bodies can do - it's a mechanical jam that can happen when you change lenses, especially if the body or lens are older or worn. It's fixable in the field by detaching the film mag and turning a small screw inside the body at the bottom, just below the lens, while carefully turning the lens until it un-jams. Not a big deal, but one less potential problem to think about. (If this happens during normal shooting, the body or lens needs servicing since the rotating shaft that communicates between the body and lens needs a cleaning and lubrication, since they will get out of sync.)

In my opinion, the 201F is the perfect MANUAL Hasselblad body with the best of both worlds. The 203 and 205 bodies are fine too, but way too complicated in my opinion, and the electronics really need you to go for an all-out "FE" system including lenses and film mags - much more expensive. And even then they are a bit complicated to work with. Use your money on good clean CF lenses, a bright matte screen and a good finder - the PME45 is unbeatable.

BTW, "C" stands for Central shutter (in lens), F for Focal plane shutter (in body), E stands for Electronic (eg communicates data to FE bodies' built-in meter) - so a CF lens can use both its own shutter as well as the one in the body; an F lens has no shutter and relies on the body shutter.

Regards,
/Henrik
 

Amund

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Amund I only have the one lens for it, the 75mm standard lens. Works just fine. The less stuff the better. :smile:

Yep, less is more.. As you have a 501CM you probably have a newer lens than the C T* I had, wich was a PIA to focus...
 

JLP

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Have shot at 1/15sec handheld and got sharp photos, just a matter of concentration and practise. The 503CW i have is a keeper. My lenses are 50CFE, 80CF and 150CF Very happy with them all.

jan
 
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If you want to shoot handheld, and you can live with one lens, then I highly recommend a Rollei TLR. It's more compact, quieter, and has less vibration than the Hassy. If you need multiple lenses, though, then it's a no-brainer.
 

Changeling1

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Hassy's are difficult to focus and handle. You should rent or borrow one first and run a few rolls through it to see how you like them before buying one.
 

eddym

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If you want to shoot handheld, and you can live with one lens, then I highly recommend a Rollei TLR. It's more compact, quieter, and has less vibration than the Hassy.
I'll amend that slightly: A Rollei TLR has NO vibration, and is practically SILENT. It's a wonderful camera for handheld shooting.
 
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coriana6jp

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Warning!!

Handling a Hassy can be hazardous to your bank account!! :surprised: :surprised: :surprised: :surprised: :surprised:

Proceed with Caution!

Steve

I think this is what worries me the most.


Thank you to everyone for the helpful advice! It gives me quite a bit to think about.

Need to seriously look around and see whats out there.

Thanx!

Gary
 

Campbell

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The camera is the least of it. It's the lenses and accessories that will kill your bank account.
 

copake_ham

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The camera is the least of it. It's the lenses and accessories that will kill your bank account.

Ain't it the truth! I still need a wide angle for the 503CXi. I'm too 'fraid to look at the KEH catalog or website for one! :surprised:
 
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coriana6jp

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Not sure about the first three letters (something about a book?), but the rest says arigato gozaimashita, or thank you very much.

Actually, the first three characters say Hontouni. Actually means Thank you very very much. Arigatou Gozaimashita by it self means just "Thank you". By adding the Hontouni its makes it more polite.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice. I have alot of looking to do, but its apparent its going to cost.

Gary
 
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