Mat to mount

[Flotsam]

How do you real framers attach the matboard to the mountboard so that the window will remain perfectly aligned over the print?
Double sided tape? A tape hinge? A hammer and nails :rolleyes: ?
I'm afraid that conventional double sided tapes will goop, yellow and maybe even bleed through over time.

 

[bobfowler]

While a pneumatic framing nailer would do the trick, I usually use an acid free double sided tape.

 

[Jorge]

How do you real framers attach the matboard to the mountboard so that the window will remain perfectly aligned over the print?
Double sided tape? A tape hinge? A hammer and nails :rolleyes: ?
I'm afraid that conventional double sided tapes will goop, yellow and maybe even bleed through over time.

I dont know if I am a "real" framer, but I use tape hinge. I place the mat and the board end to end, align them to make sure they are even and tape with linen tape. It works for me...

 

[Dan Henderson]

I was taught to make a hinge between the mount and overmat with acid free tape, but I am happier with a square of double sided tape on each corner of the mounting board/overmat sandwich.

 

[BWGirl]

Hey Neal!

I actually am a volunteer helper for a framer that teaches a matting class at the local jc. She almost always uses a hinge to attach the mat to the mounting board. She will use different methods of mounting the artwork to the mounting board depending on the weight of the object.

HTH!

 

[Travis Nunn]

I'm with Jorge. I started using Acid free linen tape after I bought some art where the matboard was attached to the mountboard that way. I figured if that way was good enough for the artists, then it was good enough for me.

 

[Flotsam]

Thanks for the answers from all.
Pardon my ignorance but could those of you who hinge, describe the process further? Do you do an outside hinge or is it between the mat and mount? Do you just put a small one on each corner or run it the full width of the mat?

 

[MurrayMinchin]

Pardon my ignorance but could those of you who hinge, describe the process further?

I lay the mat the print is dry mounted onto photograph up. The overmat is placed "face down" with the top edges of both mats butted up against each other making sure the outside edges line up.

Using 2 pieces of acid free linen tape in lengths of about 5 inches, I come in from the outside edges about an inch and place the tape perpendicular to the butted up edges then flip the overmat over to be sure everything lines up. If they do, I then place 2 more along the butted up edges, over the perpendicular pieces. Mid sized prints get 4 strips (side by side slightly overlapping). Big prints get 6 strips (3 each side) and for good measure a piece of tape all along the butted up edges. When the overmat is flipped over, it is in (perfect?!?) position over the print...

I use; LINECO Self-Adhesive Linen Hinging Tape (1 1/4 inch x 150 ft) item # L533-1055. It's the kind you don't have to wet, just peel off a backing strip. Clear as mud?

Murray

P.S. The above example is when I've made a jig (trimmed print butts up against stops and gets tacked to mount) and I know the dry mounted print is in the right spot.

Without using a jig, I first put a couple pieces of tape to hold the overmat and mount together and make a pencil line along the tape, over the butted up edges. Then I flip the overmat over into position, and tack the trimmed print (which had the dry mount tissue tacked to the print first then was trimmed to size) to the mount. Having something soft and heavy in the centre of the print keeps it from sliding around. Then I cut the tape holding the mats together and dry mount the print. When it has cooled, I then match up the pencil marks and tape it up for good. Even muddier mud?

 

[BWGirl]

Well, I'm a firm believer in the old "a picture's worth a thousand words"... soooo... here are a couple web sites for you, Neal!

http://www.nedcc.org/plam3/tleaf66.htm

http://www.danielsmith.com/learn/inksmith/200301/

Hope these help!