Adjust shutter and aperture until the meter says -1 2/3.Let's say your meter reads 125th sec at f5.6. How do you manually set your film camera to one and two-thirds of a stop underexposed?
Yep, exactly. There's something quite satisfying about setting the exposure off of something and then leaving it be. I often shoot slide film this way when I know the camera will likely botch it, e.g. at the beach or at the pool. Using exposure compensation is NOT the same as dialling in manually.but the 'correct exposure' is UNCHANGING
Well you know they are calibrated to a light source, not a reflectance. I like to think they all intend to put 10 times the speed point on the film. (BW neg) Where they differ is that meters have different sensors and were calibrated to different color temperatures over the years. They may also substitute different values for the factors that play a role in how much of the measured light will reach the film. Not sure phone apps are calibrated at all, but it is interesting that they can estimate a light source color temperature.I have a minolta spotmeter,a weston euromaster, a phone app, and 4 cameras with meters by 3 different companies but i have no idea how any of those meters are calibrated - 18% 14% 12% ?
Why manual mode? Well, think of this situation...Bright sunny cloudless day, 11 players on one team wearing white jerseys, 11 players on the other team wearing black jerseys. As you tightly frame certain key players/action for different shots...
...so
- sometimes you have predominantly white jerseys in the frame
- sometimes you have predominantly black jerseys in the frame
- sometimes you have an even mix of white jerseys and black jersitys in the frame
...but the 'correct exposure' is UNCHANGING -- an incident meter reads ISO 100 1/100 f/16 all afternoon -- because the sun is always out and never hiding behind clouds! So youj set a manual controlled camera to ISO 100 1/100 f/16 at the beginning of the game and leave it there -- for hours -- unchanged.
- the suggested camera meter reading is sometimes ISO 100 1/100 f/16 (situation 3),
- sometimes the camera meter suggests ISO 100 1/100 f/22 (situation 1), and
- sometimes the camera meter suggests ISO 100 1/100 f/11 (situation 2).
Well you know they are calibrated to a light source, not a reflectance. I like to think they all intend to put 10 times the speed point on the film. (BW neg) Where they differ is that meters have different sensors and were calibrated to different color temperatures over the years. They may also substitute different values for the factors that play a role in how much of the measured light will reach the film. Not sure phone apps are calibrated at all, but it is interesting that they can estimate a light source color temperature.
Shutter speeds are in generally in one stop increments, and apertures are generally in one stop or half-stop increments. For most manual film camera/lens combinations (I know there are exceptions) it is impossible to adjust exposure in one-third stop increments.Adjust shutter and aperture until the meter says -1 2/3.
For situations where I want to use manual and want 1/3 stop precision, I have 0.1 and 0.2 neutral density filters. I would do that to check camera / meter calibration, it's not the kind of precision I need every day.Let's say your meter reads 125th sec at f5.6. How do you manually set your film camera to one and two-thirds of a stop underexposed?
Shutter speeds are in generally in one stop increments, and apertures are generally in one stop or half-stop increments.
I have only used aperture priority once or twice to see how it worked. If I use any priority it is shutter speed priority.
It's surprising how well that works, but the minute you walk into the woods for a photo sunny 16 isn't of much help. It's fantastic for open areas though.'Been using nothing but manual mode all Summer long in bright mid-afternoon sun, by way of "Sunny F16 rule" -
and it's PERFECT with Ilford FP4 - F16 @ 125 sec. every shot, no need to bracket, just one of each.
Try it....
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