Manual exposure mode - when do you use it?

[removed account4]

hi olyman

to be honst the only time i use automatic mode or aperture or shutter priority is when i use
my nikon dslr .. most everything else ( unless it is fully automatic like a p/s, and even then i might
mess with the camera by fiddling with iso dial )i leave on manual. some so manual
i leave it on a random shutter speed and fstop and don't touch it ..
i sometimes use a totally manual camera on "auto" .. but that is out the window of a moving car ..

 

[bimmey]

I use manual 90% of the time. Aperture priority the rest of the time. That goes for my OM4T, RTS, Nikon D7100 and the Fuji XE-1. Although lately I've found using A mode and fine tuning with the exposure comp dial to be convenient on the XE-1.

 

[albada]

I use manual so much that I created a web-site showing how to modify an Olympus Trip 35 to provide manual control of its two shutter-speeds. Here's the link: http://s3.amazonaws.com/idarmethod/TopFolder/TripIndex.html
Some people responded by saying they prefer the full auto that the Trip provides; they don't want to hassle with manual control. Whereas I prefer manual because I know my exposure will not be fooled by a large light or dark area in the photo. I learned that not everyone appreciates manual control.

Mark Overton

 

[twelvetone12]

Depending on which camera I am using and what I am doing, I use a mixture of both. On my F4 I normally use P or PH mode and then fine tune it to my liking depending on the scene and how I want it. If I do something where I know I need to dial in my own exposure for each frame I just switch to M as it it more practical.
I guess automatic exposure is just a tool, I find no value added in "all metered by hand" if one just copies over what the light meter says.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

When shooting motorsports it's 99% program with compensation. Otherwise mostly aperture. Manual is for when I'm trying to achieve a certain effect.

 

[OlyMan]

Your answer is not truly correct, you have to consider the scene. What do you do in a high contrast scene and what exactly do you want to convey, how much of the scene can you pull in on the given film you are using? A high contrast scene is a a range of light values from brightest highlights to darkest shadows measuring about 7 stops or more. There can be a lot going on. Not understanding how to use exposure will only hamper you as a photographer, your goal is to have complete control of what you shoot and complete control of all the gear you use

All of which is very true and valid, I wasn't suggesting +1.5EV was a one size fits all cure-all, it was just an example, The point I was making is, having considered all those variables, the bottom line is you're going to be using your experience to essentially dial-in compensation from the suggested metered value. The only difference is, I do it via the exposure compensation dial whereas others choose to do it by setting the shutter-speed manually.

The overarching vibe from the replies in this thread (thanks everyone) is that like many things it's mainly down to personal preference and how you roll. I can't say I feel less in complete control just because I tend to use Auto mode not manual, since the outcome can be made to be the same.

 

[faberryman]

yes, there are many different situations that you need to make the call. Your meter is only going to give you an 18% grey reading of any given scene. Try shooting a snow scene and let your camera decide and watch what happens. I guarantee you your snow will not be white.

I guess it depends on where you live and what you shoot. I haven't taken a picture in snow in about 30 years.

 

[Ces1um]

What's the attraction? What have I missed all these years? .

If your photos have turned out well for years then I'd suggest sticking to your current way of doing things. Obviously they're working for you. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[faberryman]

Light meters are not intelligent devices who know what I want exposed or how, they want to turn everything grey. How can they know under the dappled light of a tree I want someone's face exposed properly and not something four stops darker. What about a face back lit by a window with sun streaming through? There are ways of automating intelligently, for instance Fuji put a nice exposure compensation wheel under your right thumb, but most camera's override access is less convenient to use than their primary settings.

I handle all that with the spot meter built in my camera. I primarily shoot aperture priority. I change shutter speed/aperture settings by turning the aperture ring to select my exposure combination without taking my eye from the viewfinder or my hand from the shutter release. It's quicker and easier. I can always shift to manual, but rarely need to do so. It's all about knowing how to use your tools.

There will always be exceptions, tracking someone running through dark, light, dark areas when confirming their identity is paramount, but for creative photography I want consistently exposed, easily printable negatives, and that means manual control.

If you know what you are doing, you can get "consistently exposed, easily printable negatives" on manual or automatic. If you don't know what you are doing, it doesn't matter whether you are shooting manual or automatic.

Some shoot manual as a fetish, and think themselves superior.

 

[Kevin Ekstrom]

All of which is very true and valid, I wasn't suggesting +1.5EV was a one size fits all cure all, it was just an example, The point I was making is, having considered all those variables, the bottom line is you're going to be using your experience to essentially dial-in compensation from the suggested metered value. The only difference is, I do it via the exposure compensation dial whereas others choose to do it by setting the shutter-speed manually.

The overarching vibe from the replies in this thread (thanks everyone) is that like many things it's mainly down to personal preference and how you roll. I can't say I feel less in complete control just because I tend to use Auto mode not manual, since the outcome can be made to be the same.

Yes, I get what your saying, bracketing seems to be your thing, but how do you get at the exposure your truly need, how do you meter the scene? Are you letting your camera meter or hand meter pick a spot and then run with it, or are you taking multiple reading to understand the scene and the latitude of your film? Simple bracketing is not going to give you what you need all the time, and all the time is your goal. The latitude of your film varies between B&W to color film, color film not so forgiving whereas B&W can have up to 9 stops with the latitude be greater for overexposure, Plus X could handle 5 stops over exposure and about 2 underexposure.My point is as photographers we need to slow down unless of course your job dictates otherwise, but in general and for general purposes it serves the photographer not to rush, take in the scene, take in as many reading as you need, and if your taking your time manual mode is perfect and the camera will only record what you choose, not what the camera chooses. You want 100% all the time, every time, bracketing may be useful but not full proof when trying to capture exactly what it is you want to convey. good enough isn't good enough. So, that's my answer to why I shoot manual and only manual, I have no need for anything else, my knowledge is in my head and my vision is in my eyes, the camera is just a dummy box waiting for me to tell it what to do.

 

[Craig75]

Yes, I get what your saying, bracketing seems to be your thing, but how do you get at the exposure your truly need, how do you meter the scene? Are you letting your camera meter or hand meter pick a spot and then run with it, or are you taking multiple reading to understand the scene and the latitude of your film? Simple bracketing is not going to give you what you need all the time, and all the time is your goal. The latitude of your film varies between B&W to color film, color film not so forgiving whereas B&W can have up to 9 stops with the latitude be greater for overexposure, Plus X could handle 5 stops over exposure and about 2 underexposure.My point is as photographers we need to slow down unless of course your job dictates otherwise, but in general and for general purposes it serves the photographer not to rush, take in the scene, take in as many reading as you need, and if your taking your time manual mode is perfect and the camera will only record what you choose, not what the camera chooses. You want 100% all the time, every time, bracketing may be useful but not full proof when trying to capture exactly what it is you want to convey. good enough isn't good enough. So, that's my answer to why I shoot manual and only manual, I have no need for anything else, my knowledge is in my head and my vision is in my eyes, the camera is just a dummy box waiting for me to tell it what to do.

the OP isn't on about bracketing and he knows how to expose. You've misread everything he's said from the start

 

[Kevin Ekstrom]

the OP isn't on about bracketing and he knows how to expose. You've misread everything he's said from the start

OP'S Heading -
Manual exposure mode - when do you use it?

No, the OP and I were having a very polite discussion and as discussion go this one lead down this path. I understood exactly what the OP asked and I answered him, he may know about exposure i never questioned him on that, but being exposure is almost 100% about obtaining a perfect print, it therefore popped up in the discussion in why manual mode is preferred by some.

As far as your statement about the OP not being on about bracketing, then why did he mention it several times?

The OP and i were not having an issue, so please do not pop in here and try to make it one.

 

[Craig75]

OP'S Heading -
Manual exposure mode - when do you use it?

No, the OP and I were having a very polite discussion and as discussion go this one lead down this path. I understood exactly what the OP asked and I answered him, he may know about exposure i never questioned him on that, but being exposure is almost 100% about obtaining a perfect print, it therefore popped up in the discussion in why manual mode is preferred by some.

As far as your statement about the OP not being on about bracketing, then why did he mention it several times?

The OP and i were not having an issue, so please do not pop in here and try to make it one.

The op is taking about exposure compensation not bracketing.

 

[Kevin Ekstrom]

The op is taking about exposure compensation not bracketing.

Seriously? how do you bracket a shot? You compensate either way.

 

[jim10219]

Once you get to know your camera, you'll figure out when to use manual, and when you can use the other automatic modes. I generally shoot aperture priority most of the time (if the camera supports it). These cameras usually have some sort of exposure compensation, so I can override it when necessary. Sometimes, it's not worth messing with that, and I just go full manual.

Usually, if the scene is evenly lit and the dynamic range isn't that wide, aperture priority gives me the same settings I'd use otherwise. If the scene is somewhat more complex, like light or dark colored areas that might throw off the meter, I won't even attempt auto mode. I might use the auto mode just to meter the scene (by pointing the camera at something with the same light, but without the problems of the scene I want to shoot), and then switch it over to manual and use those settings, especially if I don't have a dedicated light meter handy.

Each camera is going to be different, which is one reason why I don't like buying tons of cameras. It takes time to get to know each camera, and being familiar with your tools goes a long way to making you a better photographer.

 

[Craig75]

Seriously? how do you bracket a shot? You compensate either way.

The Op is just adjusting the meter according to the scene using exposure compensation dial to take one shot not a bracketed shot.

 

[Alan Gales]

Back when I shot 35mm with a Contax 139 I used the in camera meter and aperture priority. When I needed a stop or two more or less exposure I just used the exposure compensation dial. It was fast and I had just as much control (up to 2 stops) as setting exposure manually. Beyond 2 stops I would set the exposure manually and bracket because it was tricky lighting conditions and I shot Kodachrome slide film. Looking back, it sure would have been nice to have had my Pentax digital spot meter then.

With digital I shoot aperture priority and matrix metering. My medium and large format cameras and 35mm Stereo Realist are all manual only and without meters. I use my Pentax digital spot meter with them.

 

[Kevin Ekstrom]

The Op is just adjusting the meter according to the scene using exposure compensation dial to take one shot not a bracketed shot.

Yes, he meter the scene then decided to bracket his shot by using the EV . He could take the shot the meter gave him, drop the EV by a stop and take another shot, then go the other way and plus it a stop When his images arrive he can decide which shot he liked best. That,s how you bracket, and that is basically what he's doing. That is a form of bracketing , minus the OP may only take the one image which may or may not be perfect for what he was trying to capture, but then again he may have already braked the scene in the past and knew he needed to drop or plus a stop.

In any case, the OP and I were having a polite conversation, we didn't have any issues and that's the way it should be.

 

[blockend]

I handle all that with the spot meter built in my camera. I primarily shoot aperture priority. I change shutter speed/aperture settings by turning the aperture ring to select my exposure combination without taking my eye from the viewfinder or my hand from the shutter release. It's quicker and easier. I can always shift to manual, but rarely need to do so. It's all about knowing how to use your tools.


If you know what you are doing, you can get "consistently exposed, easily printable negatives" on manual or automatic. If you don't know what you are doing, it doesn't matter whether you are shooting manual or automatic.

Some shoot manual as a fetish, and think themselves superior.

That would be me then. Only been doing it for 40 years pro and am, you'd think I'd know better. Good job I have someone on the internet to correct me every time I post.

 

[faberryman]

That would be me then. Only been doing it for 40 years pro and am, you'd think I'd know better. Good job I have someone on the internet to correct me every time I post.

What I am saying is that there is more than one right way to do things. Being dogmatic doesn't help anyone.

 

[blockend]

What I am saying is that there is more than one right way to do things. Being dogmatic doesn't help anyone.

I'm offering an opinion. If people want to shoot snow scenes on Program mode, or spot meter without knowing which zone their subject occupies, I won't lose a moment's sleep.

You can take a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead - Stan Laurel.

 

[Sirius Glass]

My MF and larger cameras are always manual. I take a light reading and sent the lens myself. They are also manually focused.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I handle all that with the spot meter built in my camera. I primarily shoot aperture priority. I change shutter speed/aperture settings by turning the aperture ring to select my exposure combination without taking my eye from the viewfinder or my hand from the shutter release. It's quicker and easier. I can always shift to manual, but rarely need to do so. It's all about knowing how to use your tools.

I do the same when shooting 35mm.

 

[Les Sarile]

The overarching vibe from the replies in this thread (thanks everyone) is that like many things it's mainly down to personal preference and how you roll.

It is not a personal preference and more personal experience.

In the end, people benefit greatly from the considerable latitude of most all color C41 and b&w film which can compensate for blind metering. It is mostly when you shoot slides or "tricky scenes" that a more thorough understanding is required.

Additionally, those who use the lab for scans or prints get additional help in addressing exposure problems. Or they get additional exposure error because of them too.

 

[faberryman]

It is not a personal preference and more personal experience.

Your response is unclear to me. Are you saying that shooting manual vs. automatic is not a personal preference? And which way is a more personal experience and why?