MAMIYAFLEX C2

[anthonym3]

I've purchased a MAMIYAFLEX C2 with 80MM 2.8 in SEIKOSHA MX shutter. Shutter is sticky. Should a lighter fluid flush be used and are these shutters designed to run dry or are they lubricated?

 

[xya]

no. but it depends on what you have payed for it. some lighter fluid would possibly un-stick the shutter. but you could ruin the shutter in the end. it would work for an uncertain amount of time and then stick forever. the better solution would be to let a professional look after it. but as I said, it depends on what you have payed for it and on how long you want to use it. I have a C3 and it still works.

 

[anthonym3]

XY, I paid $74.00 U.S. camera and lens it worked albeit very slowly at the low speeds.

 

[Sirius Glass]

When did you purchase it and can you talk to them about repair, return or exchange? If not www.keh.com does repairs.

 

[Dan Daniel]

I've purchased a MAMIYAFLEX C2 with 80MM 2.8 in SEIKOSHA MX shutter. Shutter is sticky. Should a lighter fluid flush be used and are these shutters designed to run dry or are they lubricated?

Can you isolate the shutter? Remove the glass front and back? If so, then a lighter fluid flush could work. If done right and done well. The Seikoshas don't need lots of lube to run. A few select spots is helpful but not absolutely required. I mean, for what you paid, take a chance, eh?

If you can't get the glass off and isolate the shutter, then you probably shouldn't work on it. A few drops into any opening might help.The slow speed escapement is most likely to the right (clockwise from front) of the cocking lever. Very light, and don't count on it lasting long if it does work. But again, what are you going to lose?

 

[Luckless]

Before digging too deep into trying to fix the shutter, double check your MX switch.

Over the last year or so I've had my shutter collection grow with several similar designs having issues due to the position of the MX switch causing drag that lead to slow timing and outright jamming.

I can't say with great confidence on the older Seikosha MX shutters, but the later models [of which I own more of] have run 'well enough' for me in testing without reapplication of lubrication after detailed cleanings by showing consistent timings. However, they're ideally carefully and lightly greased with something suitable for fine clockwork.

That said, given the choice between being run unlubricated and oiled, I would suggest going without. The shutter and aperture blades are not fond of oil migration, and the bulk of my refurbishment time spent on Mamiya TLR lenses has been related to cleaning up those blades. [Personally I find them annoying and fiddly to work with, at least far more than the rest of the parts. They really seem to want to slip out of position at the worst time while trying to get the last one or two in place.]

If you are at all mechanically inclined, and have a space to work where you aren't at risk of never being able to find a tiny hair sized spring that goes pinging across the room on you, then they're relatively easy to work on. Take care to find or make tools suitable for different parts to avoid chewing anything up or having stuff slip and gouge, and keep track of how stuff is supposed to go back together... But honestly they're kind of relaxing to tinker with and understand how they're working.

Also, watch out for shims... Always watch out for shims. TLR lenses are extra fun for shims when you get both lenses apart and suddenly discover a shim magically appeared on the desk without warning or sound, and then you're left wondering which lens it came out of. [Still have yet to confirm if any of the shims were wedge shaped and cared about their rotation. None of mine have shown any indication of such, but I'm possibly paranoid and assume I'll find one eventually.]

 

[anthonym3]

Dan I got the lenses off. Where should I apply the lighter fluid?

 

[Dan Daniel]

Dan I got the lenses off. Where should I apply the lighter fluid?

That's not easy to describe.

Do you know how to open the shutter and get it back together? If not, I would just do some light drips around the outside, where the shutter is cocked. Doing a full dip and dunk can cause new problems as grease and dirt get flushed to the wrong places or it simply never dries out. You can also put a little on the shutter blades and then fire the shutter a few times. All in all, the basic issue is what you are ready to deal with if something goes wrong. If you are prepared to do a full strip and clean if needed, there are lots of options.

 

[donkee]

I ran into a youtube video that went through the process of fixing slow shutter speeds. I took a quick look for giggles but didn't finish it. Here it is, hope it helps......