mamiya twin lens

[david b]

What is the "best" mamiya twin lens camera?

 

[Jeffrey A. Steinberg]

Personally I like the C330F, not the later C330S. The F has slightly less plastic in it; Either are great cameras. I just feel that the F is a little more rugged. Mind you this is all subjective. I have nothing to back it up.

Lots of Mamiya gear around and the prices are great on used gear.

My favorite lens is the 80 S black lens and the 55 mm.

 

[jovo]

The one you've got is the best I think.

 

[Snapper]

The last versions of the C330 are 'best' - the C330f and C330s have more features, but a C220f will take the same picture as they all use the same lenses anyway. The later 'black' lenses are the ones to go for.

 

[Lee Shively]

I disagree with everyone. The first version of the C330 is best. It was basic, built like a hockey puck and still had enough features to do virtually everything. The lenses were all good. The chrome lenses are available so cheap and perform so well, you may as well buy them and use them til they break (which may be decades). Actually, all the Mamiya C220's and C330's are excellent choices.

 

[Blighty]

The C330f is the one I'd plump for anytime. AFAIK, it will accept a greater range of accessories than the later 'S' model (such as single exposure backs etc.). Build quality is good. As for lenses, I think the 55mm is the best of the bunch. Not so sure about the 250mm f6.3 though! Regards BLIGHTY

 

[Dave Miller]

I have a 330s, which is very good. The "f" version sells for less however so may be worth looking at since the difference is minor.

 

[Max Power]

I'm only an amateur, but for me the C220 represented the best value. It's built as heavily as the C330, but has fewer 'features'. This may sound counter-intuitive, but fewer features is better for me because it means fewer potential problems. I wanted the quality of the C330s without the gadgets; I only use it for landscapes and portraits, so I don't need the speed of the C330. The C220 was considerably less expensive too.

Just my $0.02.

Kent

 

[dr bob]

I'm only an amateur, but for me the C220 represented the best value. It's built as heavily as the C330, but has fewer 'features'. This may sound counter-intuitive, but fewer features is better for me because it means fewer potential problems. I wanted the quality of the C330s without the gadgets; I only use it for landscapes and portraits, so I don't need the speed of the C330. The C220 was considerably less expensive too.

Just my $0.02.

Kent

I'll agree with Kent. I too own and use a C330f. I hardly need the shutter cocking features as they are not available on my 150 nor 250mm lenses anyway. The front shutter realease is nice but unnecessary. Sometimes I wish My C330 had a knob for winding but not often. One feature I miss on all the TLRs is the old fashioned red or green window for indexing film. Just me, I'm sure.

 

[Scott Edwards]

The one you've got is the best I think.

And there you have it...
Now, to round out the package that you already own, shoot this camera with Efke R25 film at 12 asa and you will really see what this camera can do.

 

[Digidurst]

Can someone give me a quick rundown of the differences between the C220 and the C330? I appreciate it

 

[Max Power]

I have a C220 and understand that the C330 self-cocks with the film advance, and that there is a moving indicator under the focusing screen to indicate parallax. Furthermore, the C330 has the option of interchangeable focusing screens.

Other than that, the lenses are all interchangeable and they accomplish the same thing.

Kent

 

[grahamp]

C220 : fixed screen with a couple of parallax/exposure correction marks. Knob wind with fold out crank. Manual shutter cocking on all lenses. Single frame-mount shutter release, with cable release. Focus scale and parallax/exposure correction by plates on the left side of the bellows. Some variations without a cold flash shoe.

C330: interchangable screens with scale for parallax/exposure correction. Moving parallax/exposure indicator in the finder (remember to 'program' the focal length). Auto shutter cocking on most lenses. Crank advance and shutter cocking. Frame shutter release and 'chin' release. The 'chin' release has the cable release socket. Focus scale uses a revolving rod. Has a cold flash shoe.

If you really need details, Dead Link Removed and the photopages at Dead Link Removed

There are some cosmetic differences and the internal mechanisms have differences too.

 

[Flotsam]

220s have been selling crazy cheap on Ebay. It's like you buy an 80mm lens and the camera is thrown in free.

330s are more expensive but still a bargain. Great way to shoot 6x6.

 

[Digidurst]

Thanks for the info, ya'll!

When using my old Graflex, I like that I can look down into the waist level finder and shoot - no one really knows I'm taking a picture, they just think I'm fiddling with my camera. But it's a fixed lens TLR and so not much flexibility there. I'm thinking of doing street photography with one of these Mamiyas; Viable or no?

 

[papagene]

Viable - YES!

 

[hurdy_gurdyman]

The C220 weighs the least of any of the Mamiya TLR's. That's important to me.

Dave

 

[David Brown]

What is the "best" mamiya twin lens camera?

I'll just add that since all of these are years old, condition is more important than model!

David

 

[Max Power]

Just to add to Graham's post, there are some C220s with a cold shoe; mine has one.

Kent

 

[Digidurst]

Just to add to Graham's post, there are some C220s with a cold shoe; mine has one.

Kent

Okay, I've heard of a hot shoe but a cold shoe? What's that?

Which reminds of another question: I will mostly use the TLR in natural light situations but what about studio strobe? Is there a pc link on those bad boys?

 

[noblebeast]

Okay, I've heard of a hot shoe but a cold shoe? What's that?

Which reminds of another question: I will mostly use the TLR in natural light situations but what about studio strobe? Is there a pc link on those bad boys?

I'm sure I'll be corrected if wrong, but a "cold shoe" is basically an accessory shoe, to which a flash unit could be attached to the camera. And yes, the lenses have a pc socket. I use my C220 with strobes and monolights all the time.

Joe

 

[Digidurst]

Good to know - thanks, Joe!

 

[grahamp]

Since the lenses are all leaf shutters, you have X-sync from B to 1/500, which gives you a lot of control. Having to remember to move the PC-cord when you change lenses (actually to re-attach it...) is the hard part.

About the only thing I use the flash shoe for on my cameras is to hold a bubble level. It is placed a little too close to the lens axis for more than fill-in - but aren't all camera shoes?

 

[Flotsam]

I believe that a Cold Shoe is a flash/accessory shoe that lacks the built in electrical contacts to trigger an appropriate flash unit. You just have to use PC cord.