MAMIYA TLR

LMNOP · Jan 1, 2015

Hey!

I have not put down my RZ67 pro ii since the day I bought it. In fact, I averaged 2+ rolls per week, considering film is nowhere near my day job, I feel good about self-scanning and shooting all of those.

NOW, I am looking to feed my addiction, and my girlfriend supports this notion since a Mamiya TLR could be half what my RZ cost me.

Anyone have some input? I am looking at C220f - C330f and even a C3 on BH for $200 with waist level vf. I am open to older cameras, but like my pro ii taught me, having some of those newer functions can be useful. Anyone own more than one Mamiya TLR? I would love to spend $300 or less, and the 80mm 2.8 seems ideal, at least it has been for my 645.

Thanks!

flavio81 · Jan 1, 2015

I own three -- and have owned more.

The C330 is great, but if you can get a late (bright screen) C220, its a lighter and simpler machine.

As for the lenses, consider the 105mm for portraits (any version), and the 65mm for low light shooting (it has more DOF and it's very sharp). All versions of the 180mm are very good. But some chrome nose 180mm lenses won't mount on auto (c3/33/330) bodies; check with the seller.
The 55mm i own but never found a use for it yet.

Forget about the "blue dot" thing, it does not matter.

From the earlier bodies I liked the Mamiyaflex C2. And i bet the C22 is a nice machine. The C33 is the heaviest of all.

As for viewfinders, avoid the porroflex or porrofinders; it's impossible to focus accurately with them. That being said, the CdS meter on the CdS porrofinder is very precise.

A side grip can help you shoot handheld down to even 1/8s with sharp pics. Couple this with the 65mm lens which is sharp at f3.5, and hp5 at iso 1600, and you can shoot in almost any light.

MattKing · Jan 1, 2015

If you haven't already reviewed it, check out Graham Patterson's Mamiya TLR resource.

The blue dot lenses are the most modern, and are most likely to have the most recent shutters in them and the most modern coatings and optical designs, so there is that for them.

When you wind any of the C3/C33/C330 bodies, for most lenses the shutter is also cocked for you. The C220 versions require you to cock those shutters manually. As mentioned, this makes the C220 a bit lighter and slightly smaller.

The C330 came in three flavours - the original C330, the C330s and the C330f. There are some differences between the features, but most importantly there are important incompatibilities between the viewing screens, especially for the C330s.

The prism finder is a useful accessory, even if it is heavy and not particularly bright. The left handed trigger grip that also fits on the RB67 makes handheld use straightforward.

I've owned my C330 since I bought it new in or about 1976. At one time I had 55mm, 65mm, 80mm and 135mm lenses, the prism finder, the grip and for a few years a backup C220 body. I used most of this for the wedding photography that I did for several years.

Since I invested in 6x4.5 and 6x7 SLR systems, I have paired my TLR system down to a C330, a 65mm lens, a 135mm lens and the grip and waist level and prism finders. It all fits in a nice, compact bag.

I prefer the grid screen, but there are a good variety to choose from.

mgb74 · Jan 1, 2015

Big difference between the prism finder and porrofinder. The prism finder is much brighter and more functional (and more expensive).

MattKing · Jan 1, 2015

mgb74 said:
Big difference between the prism finder and porrofinder. The prism finder is much brighter and more functional (and more expensive).

+1

For people photography, like weddings, it is really handy to be able to shoot at eye level, and not to have the view reversed right-to-left.

flavio81 · Jan 1, 2015

MattKing said:
The blue dot lenses are the most modern, and are most likely to have the most recent shutters in them and the most modern coatings and optical designs, so there is that for them.

Blue dot only meant an improved shutter design but i have not had any shutter fail on me, even on the old chrome lenses.

Coatings are single coatings on all lenses except the last version of the 80mm and 105mm... Moreover, for some strange reason my chrome nose 80mm lens seems more contrasty and with shinier coatings than my (later) black 80mm lens (with the blue dot)

As for the optical designs, they were largely the same optical designs through the lifetime of the TLR series, save for the 105mm and the 180mm lenses, which changed optical design from 4 elements to 5 elements in both cases. The others (55/65/80/135/250) did not change in design, although they might have been recomputed when changing from chrome series to the black series.

flavio81 · Jan 1, 2015

MattKing said:
If you haven't already reviewed it, check out Graham Patterson's Mamiya TLR resource.

+1!
Lots of info.
Also download all mamiya manuals at Butkus's website.

MattKing · Jan 2, 2015

http://www.gapatterson.com/grahamp

miha · Jan 2, 2015

The shutter in my 65 silver broke down. I understand shutters in blue dot lenses are repairable, others are not.

Too old to care · Jan 2, 2015

I made my living with three for 11 years working as a wedding photographer. First was a used C3, well made, will not take 220 film and requires manual cocking. Next was a C220f, lighter, required manual cocking too, but would take 220 film. My favorite was/is my C330f. Very well made, although will require servicing soon due to skipping shots. Any will do you great service though.

Xmas · Jan 2, 2015

If you are shooting formal wedding photos a chalk boulder for a line to stand on allows the direct vision action finder to be used.

benjiboy · Jan 2, 2015

mgb74 said:
Big difference between the prism finder and porrofinder. The prism finder is much brighter and more functional (and more expensive).

And much heavier.

benjiboy · Jan 2, 2015

Too old to care said:
I made my living with three for 11 years working as a wedding photographer. First was a used C3, well made, will not take 220 film and requires manual cocking. Next was a C220f, lighter, required manual cocking too, but would take 220 film. My favorite was/is my C330f. Very well made, although will require servicing soon due to skipping shots. Any will do you great service though.

My C330F only requires manual cocking with the i80 and 250 mm lens pairs it cocks the shutter on winding the film forward for the next exposure.on all the other lenses
http://tlrgraphy.com/2012/10/15/mamiya-c330f-the-best-mamiya-tlr/

grahamp · Jan 2, 2015

A C330 body is about the same weight as an RB67 Pro-S (1450g). The standard lens pair is lighter than the 90mm RB standard, so you would be around 430g lighter. That's one advantage of coming from an RB - most things seem lighter!

TLRs have quirks, just like rangefinders. Make sure you understand them and any affect it will have on what you like to photograph.

Personally, I like the waist-level finder or chimney finder as they are easier on my eyes. I stopped using SLRs because of that.

pbromaghin · Jan 2, 2015

I recently had my C33 and all lenses (80, 105, 135, 180) CLA'd and it is now a wonderful system. I use a neck strap for hand-held shooting and hang it at solar-plexus level - the hand grip just never felt secure. The C33 does not cock the lens on winding, nor does it prevent multiple exposure.

benjiboy · Jan 2, 2015

The Mamiya C TLR's and the appropriate lenses are wonderful tools for portrait and social photography.

tessar · Jan 2, 2015

If you're interested in using the Mamiya TLR's extreme close-focusing capabilities, the Paramender is a useful accessory. It raises the tripod-mounted camera the exact distance between the centres of the two lenses.

Steve Smith · Jan 2, 2015

LMNOP said:
Anyone own more than one Mamiya TLR?

Yes. I have four (inherited from my father). A C330, a C33. a C3 and an original Mamiyaflex.

Steve.

Too old to care · Jan 3, 2015

benjiboy said:
My C330F only requires manual cocking with the i80 and 250 mm lens pairs it cocks the shutter on winding the film forward for the next exposure.on all the other lenses
http://tlrgraphy.com/2012/10/15/mamiya-c330f-the-best-mamiya-tlr/

Agree, I wasn't clear on that. To me the main advantage is the automatic cocking on the 330. This was important shooting weddings, although you can get quite good at advancing the film and cocking manually too.

Rick A · Jan 3, 2015

Too old to care said:
Agree, I wasn't clear on that. To me the main advantage is the automatic cocking on the 330. This was important shooting weddings, although you can get quite good at advancing the film and cocking manually too.

Yes, you can. I shot weddings with a Yashica D back when.

benjiboy · Jan 3, 2015

Too old to care said:
Agree, I wasn't clear on that. To me the main advantage is the automatic cocking on the 330. This was important shooting weddings, although you can get quite good at advancing the film and cocking manually too.

I think the reason 180 and 250mm lenses don't cock automatically is because the linkages would be too long.

Rick A · Jan 3, 2015

I have a 180, and you are correct Ben, it will only function on my 220. In fact, it won't even mount on the 330 without possibly damaging the linkage.

miha · Jan 3, 2015

The 180 SUPER I have cocks automatically on my C330.

benjiboy · Jan 3, 2015

miha said:
The 180 SUPER I have cocks automatically on my C330.

I just tried my 180mm Super and it did cock your'e right, it's so long since I used it I'd forgotten, I think the earlier chrome lenses didn't automatically cock, but although I don't own the 250mm I'm sure they don't.

Rick A · Jan 3, 2015

Mine is the chrome version, not the super.

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