Mamiya RB67 Questionshttp://zentography.zenfolio.com/img/s12/v175/p392143110-5.jpg

[ZENGHOST]

Hey, everyone. So I'm pretty new to the film scene overall (you can read about my lack of film background in my APUG intro: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)). Basically I inherited some stuff and I bought other stuff, but right now I'm trying to figure out my Mamiya RB67 Professional. The first thing I'm looking for is a reputable place that will CLA/repair my RB67 and lenses. It currently does function but as I mentioned in my intro, I inherited it from my late uncle and I'd like to clean it up as much as I can due to its sentimental value. The second question is regarding the polaroid backs I bought for it. I first bought an NPC back for it, which seems to function pretty well, but I didn't like that it didn't center the photo on the film so I bought a Mamiya Polaroid back from someone's moving sale a week or so ago:

I have to say that I absolutely fell in love with the instant stuff and unfortunately I foresee throwing tons of money at stocking up on FP-3000B packs. Here are some samples of the NPC with FP-3000B:

As you can see, my nephews enjoyed it as well. I burned a whole ten pack on them messing around.

In the photos, the 2nd shot I took (1st was too underexposed to post) was the empty couch shot. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what is causing all the smudging on the white wall in the back. You can see it got better in the subsequent shots, but there is still some there. It does add some interesting characteristics to the photos, but I'd like to know what's causing it. Defects in the film itself or light leaks perhaps? I would expect light leaks to be lighter rather than darker, though, but I'm not used to shooting with BW film.

Here's an example of the Mamiya Polaroid back with FP-100C film:

In this photo, there's what looks to me like a light leak. It's that white streak that looks like someone took an eraser to the print. This was the third shot I took and all three had this in the same spot.

This is what the back looks like:

Looks like the foam pad is disintegrating. Wish I had paid attention to that when I was buying it, I was just surprised that the guy had one. I was also worried it wouldn't even take the FP-100C film so at least that worked.

This is the back of the NPC:

This one doesn't look like it even has any kind of seal, which is probably a good thing.

If anyone can help identify the issues above and/or recommend someplace that will be able to CLA everything, I'd appreciate it. I know some people will say to try doing it myself, but I really am not good at that sort of thing and rather pay to have it done right. It is probably gonna cost me a fortune to ship this brick out, but as I mentioned it has a lot of sentimental value so I'll figure the money part out somehow.

I wanna run a roll of 120 through this as well, but my 120 back will almost definitely have seal issues from the looks of it. But I think I'd probably buy an SD back to replace it since it doesn't have pads to replace.

Thanks for the help, I look forward to learning a lot here.

ps...don't know how the URL got stuck in the title. Sorry about that.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Not certain if it's helpful, but have you cleaned the rollers? I wish I could help but when I had mine it seemed fine and I don't recall having an issue like this for what it's worth? Good luck!

 

[ZENGHOST]

Not certain if it's helpful, but have you cleaned the rollers? I wish I could help but when I had mine it seemed fine and I don't recall having an issue like this for what it's worth? Good luck!

Thanks, aRolleiBrujo. The NPC (BW shots) rollers were really clean and I cleaned the other back (color shots) before I used it. Do you have the regular Mamiya back or the NPC?

 

[j-dogg]

If you can't find anyone to CLA it, I can at least replace the light seals for you if you wish.

It would be seals for one 120 back, both sides of the rotating back and the mirror dampers.

 

[analoguey]

Re your 1st issue - are you sure you're pulling the Fuji evenly through the NPC pack?(post-exposure) -that tends to have quite an effect on things.
Its also something I have seen more on the all-plastic back(Lane) I have -results similar, with photo printed to one side, and a dark blob on the other.

On the second, I just checked my Polaroid backs and neither seem to have the right amount of foam, the lane doesn't have any at all. And I havent experienced any light streaking - on portraits, studio/outdoor portraits, landscapes and indoor low light shots as well. Maybe the problem is elsewhere?

Sent from Tap-a-talk

 

[j-dogg]

It's normal for only a portion of the print to be exposed on an RB back.

 

[shutterfinger]

1. empty couch shot-smudges on the wall are from handling the film or dirty rollers. Instant film is very sensitive to pressure, could be from loading the camera back.
2.

In this photo, there's what looks to me like a light leak. It's that white streak that looks like someone took an eraser to the print. This was the third shot I took and all three had this in the same spot.

Were all three shots in the same position/lighting? It too could be pressure marks from handling. Light leaks have a tendency to change in intensity proportionally to the lighting and the source with respect to the camera. The most likely source of a light leak in the instant film backs is the darkslide slot. The felt wears and gets compressed allowing light to enter when the darkslide is removed.
3. The leaf shutters in the lens are Seiko shutters. They are not difficult to service if one is experienced in shutter repair. The only reason I will not offer to service them for you is that I do not have the special tools needed to remove the lens elements to access the shutter.

4. Although I have never used them http://www.ictcamera.com/ is a company I would try if I was not able to do it myself. Dead Link Removed may be a good choice also.

 

[ZENGHOST]

If you can't find anyone to CLA it, I can at least replace the light seals for you if you wish.


It would be seals for one 120 back, both sides of the rotating back and the mirror dampers.

Thanks, j-dogg, I appreciate that. I will let you know. Would you be able to do the seal on the Polaroid back as well?

Re your 1st issue - are you sure you're pulling the Fuji evenly through the NPC pack?(post-exposure) -that tends to have quite an effect on things.
Its also something I have seen more on the all-plastic back(Lane) I have -results similar, with photo printed to one side, and a dark blob on the other.


On the second, I just checked my Polaroid backs and neither seem to have the right amount of foam, the lane doesn't have any at all. And I havent experienced any light streaking - on portraits, studio/outdoor portraits, landscapes and indoor low light shots as well. Maybe the problem is elsewhere?


Sent from Tap-a-talk

Thanks, analoguey, I let the kids pull some of the sheets out and I told them to pull straight back but wasn't paying that much attention to it.

It's definitely possible the problem is elsewhere since I'm still a total noob at this. That was just my best guess from what I saw. Might be the easiest thing to fix as well.

It's normal for only a portion of the print to be exposed on an RB back.

From my experience and what I've read so far. Just seems to be something in the design of the back and how it aligns on the camera.

1. empty couch shot-smudges on the wall are from handling the film or dirty rollers. Instant film is very sensitive to pressure, could be from loading the camera back.
2.

In this photo, there's what looks to me like a light leak. It's that white streak that looks like someone took an eraser to the print. This was the third shot I took and all three had this in the same spot.

Were all three shots in the same position/lighting? It too could be pressure marks from handling. Light leaks have a tendency to change in intensity proportionally to the lighting and the source with respect to the camera. The most likely source of a light leak in the instant film backs is the darkslide slot. The felt wears and gets compressed allowing light to enter when the darkslide is removed.
3. The leaf shutters in the lens are Seiko shutters. They are not difficult to service if one is experienced in shutter repair. The only reason I will not offer to service them for you is that I do not have the special tools needed to remove the lens elements to access the shutter.


4. Although I have never used them http://www.ictcamera.com/ is a company I would try if I was not able to do it myself. Dead Link Removed may be a good choice also.

Thanks, shutterfinger. That's a good point. On that FP-3000B pack, I was a little distracted (ironically by watching a video on how to load the Polaroid back) so it's very possible I mishandled the pack while putting it in. I was more careful with the second pack, and that's probably why it didn't happen on that pack.

All three shots were in the same position (on tripod) and taken in succession with slight changes to settings due to clouds moving in and out. From my best guess, the direction seems more to be on the opposite side of the dark slide, so the side where the film comes out. I'm wondering if that's the cause.

This is another test I did. Much more prominent in this one, but it was a much brighter day so that might be the cause.

Thanks for all the advice, everyone. I'm really looking forward to using this once I get through all the little issues.

 

[shutterfinger]

Remove the lens and operate the body so that the mirror is up. Now attach the film holder and remove the darkslide, use an empty film pack if necessary fill the void in the back so it is like it will be when loaded with film. Now go into a totally dark room and set a mini mag flashlight to spot at 2 inches.

Place the flashlight in from the lens opening and observe the back. Any hint of light coming out of any opening is a light leak. Next looking through the lens opening put the light against the film exit, darkslide slot, back hinge, then around the perimeter of the back and adapter mounting points to the camera body.

Light leaks will be anything from dull yellow to bright white.

Oh yes, the light leak could be coming from the seal around the mirror so be sure to check the finder as you shine the flashlight around the inside of the body.

 

[ZENGHOST]

Remove the lens and operate the body so that the mirror is up. Now attach the film holder and remove the darkslide, use an empty film pack if necessary fill the void in the back so it is like it will be when loaded with film. Now go into a totally dark room and set a mini mag flashlight to spot at 2 inches.

Place the flashlight in from the lens opening and observe the back. Any hint of light coming out of any opening is a light leak. Next looking through the lens opening put the light against the film exit, darkslide slot, back hinge, then around the perimeter of the back and adapter mounting points to the camera body.

Light leaks will be anything from dull yellow to bright white.

Oh yes, the light leak could be coming from the seal around the mirror so be sure to check the finder as you shine the flashlight around the inside of the body.

Thanks, shutterfinger--that's a good idea, I didn't even think of that. Too bad I have to just write off the rest of the Polaroid pack now.

 

[ZENGHOST]

Thought I'd update this thread (wish I could edit the error in the title).

I ended up finding Dave Easterwood of Dave's Camera Repair in Michigan and contacted him about repairing my Mamiya RB67 and some other stuff. He was extremely friendly in both email and on the phone--very easy to work with. I sent him a whole bunch of stuff and he called me immediately after receiving it to let me know it got there and that he would start looking at them. Got a free estimate with a summary of the issues shortly afterwards and I told him to go ahead with everything. Just received everything back on Monday with a report of the completed work and a 6 month warranty. I sent the RB67 body, my Mamiya-Sekor 50mm, 120mm film back, Polaroid back (Dave said the streak on the polaroid was due to light leak) and a Nikon 28mm f/3.5 lens. I haven't had a chance to get out and test, but everything looks great, so at the very least everything has been cleaned nicely. He even cleaned my focusing screen and the hazy glass on the Mamiya 50mm and Nikon 28mm. Extremely satisfied so far and I'm sure I'll be sending more stuff his way.

I got Dave's permission to post his contact info. I asked him what kind of cameras he will work on and he will take a look at pretty much anything and has pretty long resume. At the rate I've been picking up cameras I'll definitely be sending more stuff to him.

Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.

Dave's contact info:

Dave Easterwood
Daves Camera Repair
77 Cambridge Court
Chelsea, Mi. 48118


734-433-2640

website (still under construction): http://www.davescamera.net/about.html
email: dave@davescamera.net

 

[flavio81]

Good, good.

The RB67 is one of the best cameras ever and needs love. And technicians usually love to work on it since it's relatively easy to service. Any technician that was very active with pro photographers will know the RB67 insides by heart.