Mamiya RB67 Pro SD handheld?

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Jessestr

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With a padded neck strap, I'm sure you could use the 67 handheld. Annie Leibovitz does, as did Salgado before he went digital.

Because of the weight and balance, it's quite steady.

The nimbler option would be a Mamiya 645 Pro/AFd.

Probably. The Hassy weighs the same, lens is 10mm shorter. What would be a safe lowest shutter speed for no blur for the RB67 with the 90mm?
I considered the Mamiya 645 Pro (or Super), but they are electronic camera's. I'd rather stay mechanical.
 

analoguey

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1/30 is smooth, comfy.
I have shot it at 1/10 while squatting - took a bit of effort but wasnt bad at all. Havent scanned my images, else would've put them up.


I recently bought a strap to use with mine and I almost never like it - on the neck, camera is tilted to a weird angle, just handheld w/o strap much more comfortable. (thats how I have done a trek or shot mostly)


And the 90mm has some smooth bokeh, get the Kl Floating element ones. (I have the KL 90,180)

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analoguey

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I agree Chris for shooting models outdoors much faster and easier to handle than the RB 67 and many famous fashion photographers like Terry Donovan used them for their work https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...Q_AUoAQ&biw=1680&bih=925#q=terry+donovan+fash

Curious - easier in which way do you mean? I found operating the RB at waist level more comfortable /less taxing than a (much lighter) mamiya 645afd at eye level.
Pentax is heavier than the RB no?

Do you mean much similar to a 35mm in way of operation?



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Chris Lange

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Heavier than an RB with a WLF...maybe, heavier than an RB with a prism, probably not. The lenses are lighter weight too because they don't have shutters in them.

Also, film advance/shutter cocking is not a two step operation on the Pentax or Hasselblad as it is with the RB, and mirror-lockup is less of a pain in the rear on both of those cameras as well.

As to fashion people loving RBs, that I'm not so sure of, but I do know that an RZ or three was in the stable of pretty much every fashion photographer by the early 90s. Magazines no longer wanted chromes for the majority of assignments, and were heavily biased towards medium format as far as cover work was concerned. Editorial work was more free-form, and my dad used to enjoy the chance to shoot films like 1600 speed fujichrome in his Nikons for parts of those assignments.
 
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Jessestr

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1/30 is smooth, comfy.
I have shot it at 1/10 while squatting - took a bit of effort but wasnt bad at all. Havent scanned my images, else would've put them up.


I recently bought a strap to use with mine and I almost never like it - on the neck, camera is tilted to a weird angle, just handheld w/o strap much more comfortable. (thats how I have done a trek or shot mostly)


And the 90mm has some smooth bokeh, get the Kl Floating element ones. (I have the KL 90,180)

Sent from Tap-a-talk

I didn't like the strap thing on the Hassy too. Decided to get the RB67 with the 90. It's not the KL but the C lens tho.. Is it bad?
 

MattKing

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I didn't like the strap thing on the Hassy too. Decided to get the RB67 with the 90. It's not the KL but the C lens tho.. Is it bad?

The 90mm C lens is a good lens.

The K/L lenses are newer, with newer shutters.

FWIW, I use the RB67 with a strap, a W/L finder and, when using it hand-held, with a left hand trigger grip.
 
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Jessestr

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Oh yeah. The RB67 comes with a grip and 6 month warranty, all for €300.
 

markbarendt

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I use my RB hand held regularly. Works great and your 90 is a fine lens to start with.

I also shoot a lot with a monopod, and that's not just a MF camera thing, 35mm cameras as well.
 

MattKing

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I use my RB hand held regularly. Works great and your 90 is a fine lens to start with.

I also shoot a lot with a monopod, and that's not just a MF camera thing, 35mm cameras as well.

An RB 67 with a monopod works very well - not least because of the rotating back.
 

Charles Wass

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I used to use the RB67 and on rare occasions away from the studio and when a tripod was not feasible I used it hand held. The L grip made it somewhat more practical but I do not recommend the camera for such use.
 
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Jessestr

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Should mention that it's a camera to have with me when I'm shooting my M6. For some shots I need in higher quality and in color. Not to use full-time.
 

Jaf-Photo

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Probably. The Hassy weighs the same, lens is 10mm shorter. What would be a safe lowest shutter speed for no blur for the RB67 with the 90mm?
I considered the Mamiya 645 Pro (or Super), but they are electronic camera's. I'd rather stay mechanical.

The lowest steady shutterspeed is somewhat individual. But you should be able to shoot 1/15s, think.

If you get a short neck strap you can rest the camera against your chest if you are using a downward viewfinder.

But if you want something else mechanical, you should have a look at Mamiya 645 1000s. It's a very good camera, with good lenses, at affordable prices. For portraits you can use the C N 150mm f/3.5 for superb images. Very limited dof at large apertures.

Metered prisms are also very reasonable, which makes it easier to shoot dynamic scenes (plus the 1/1000 max shutter speed).

 

Jaf-Photo

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Probably. The Hassy weighs the same, lens is 10mm shorter. What would be a safe lowest shutter speed for no blur for the RB67 with the 90mm?<br>
I considered the Mamiya 645 Pro (or Super), but they are electronic camera's. I'd rather stay mechanical.


The lowest steady speed is somewhat individual. But you should be able to shoot 1/15s, think.

If you get a short neck strap you can rest the camera against your chest if you are using a downward viewfinder.

But if you want something mechanical you should have a look at Mamiya 645 1000s. It's a very good camera, with good lenses, at affordable prices. For portraits you can use the C N 150mm f/3.5 for superb images. Very limited dof at large apertures.

Metered prisms are also very reasonable, which makes it easier to shoot dynamic scenes (plus the 1/1000 shutter speed).
 

Kevin Harding

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But if you want something mechanical you should have a look at Mamiya 645 1000s. It's a very good camera, with good lenses, at affordable prices. For portraits you can use the C N 150mm f/3.5 for superb images. Very limited dof at large apertures.

I'm pretty sure the Mamiya 645 1000s is not fully mechanical, though it is predominantly mechanical. It requires a battery to actuate the shutter, I think.
 

film_man

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I didn't like the strap thing on the Hassy too. Decided to get the RB67 with the 90. It's not the KL but the C lens tho.. Is it bad?

Good stuff, I'd say try and find the adjustable L grip, makes it much easier to handle the camera. I love mine.
 

film_man

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Which film and lenses do you use when you hand held an RB67?

I've shot with the 65 (no longer have it), 90, 127 and 250. Generally I use the 90 most, then 127 and 250 for when I have something particular in mind. I have no problem handling either with the WLF but the 65 and 250 do get a bit tricky with the prism though.

Filmwise anything and everything. A few weeks ago I had a day walking around with the 90mm and PanF. It wasn't even that sunny so I was mostly shooting at 1/30-1/15. All the scans were really good.
 
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Jessestr

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Great to hear. I got an L grip but don't know if it's adjustable. It comes with it for free. Package arriving this Wednesday.
 

mopar_guy

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Which film and lenses do you use when you hand held an RB67?

RB 67 Pro SD, with 90mm KL L, or 127mm KL L, or 180mm KL L-A.

Choose a Film based on the general light level. For bright conditions a film of 100 speed is fine or for low light use something at 400.
 

Alan Klein

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I've shot with the 65 (no longer have it), 90, 127 and 250. Generally I use the 90 most, then 127 and 250 for when I have something particular in mind. I have no problem handling either with the WLF but the 65 and 250 do get a bit tricky with the prism though.

Filmwise anything and everything. A few weeks ago I had a day walking around with the 90mm and PanF. It wasn't even that sunny so I was mostly shooting at 1/30-1/15. All the scans were really good.


Frankly I'm skeptical anyone can get pictures that consistently show no movement at 1/15 of a second. Are any of these on the web where you can provide a link? Also, what size do you enlarge too? Movement gets worse the larger you blow up so what you think is OK on a light box quickly shows movement as you enlarge.
 

Xmas

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55, 65, 90 & 150, motor drive

But for street the 55 or 65 close in.

The 90 is difficult to hold steady, the 150 terrible. coffee house table/chair or wall, or clinging on to pillar, or monopod. Tripod takes me over weight.

note not picky about blur...

/125 at /5.6 or if it is too dark OD on latte and muffins blueberry. HP5+ in Microphen or Rodinal stand EI 800.

fixed grip mainly, sometime prerelease & short cable.

the c330 and 65mm is easier...
 

Jaf-Photo

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Frankly I'm skeptical anyone can get pictures that consistently show no movement at 1/15 of a second. Are any of these on the web where you can provide a link? Also, what size do you enlarge too? Movement gets worse the larger you blow up so what you think is OK on a light box quickly shows movement as you enlarge.

This is highly infividual. Some people have steady hands, some less so.

Using a breathing technique, similar to rifle shooting, can also improve steadiness.

But when posting analog images, there is no way to tell shutter speed or whether a support was used.

so it's one of those things where we will have to take people's word for it.
 
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