Mamiya RB67 Pro S kit

[ctrout]

So my new to me Pro S just arrived today from KEH and it looks pretty much new. What a gorgeous machine!

My dilemma now is what to include in my kit. I started in 35mm back in about 1982 or so and have since switched to Canon Eos digital and then back to Pentax 35mm again. As I understand it, the focal lengths that I am happy with in 35mm will need to be doubled to produce similar fields of view in 6x7. With that, I will certainly not be using the RB for the same purposes that I use my Eos kit for. I do a lot of scenic, wildlife, family, kids sports, ect. I'm thinking that the RB will be primarily reserved for portraits of my family and the scenics that I would be using my 5D3 and a tripod for.

The RB arrived with the waist level finder and the revolving attachment and nothing more so I will need to purchase the film back and some glass. I am planning on getting a Pro SD back for 120 film because I've read that the light seal design of the SD backs is better that that of the Pro S backs. Someone please inform me if I am misunderstanding this. For lenses, I want the 50mm F4.5 for the scenics and the 180mm K/L F4.5 for the portrait stuff. Is this a reasonably good start? Once I have the lenses in hand and see how they work out, I will probably find some gaps to fill and build from there.

Any input on my planned kit is welcomed, especially since I have never workied with anything larger than 35mm before.

 

[chris77]

i think its a good idea to start with these two and really work with the camera. then you will see.
enjoy it!

 

[MattKing]

The SD backs are certainly desirable, but a properly serviced and recently re-sealed S back is certainly a good option as well. The seals will last a while before they need changing, and changing seals is something most people can do themselves.
I really like having at least two backs.
I have 4 lenses - 50mm, 65mm, 140mm macro and 180mm. The 180mm is the latest K/L version while all the others are the C version.
More often than not, the kit I carry has the 140mm in the bag. My "small" kit is usually a 65mm and 140mm pair, although some times it is a 50mm and 140mm pair. I always have at least one extra back.
As the saying goes, YMMV. FWIW, my "standard" lens when I shoot 135 film is a 35mm lens. The 65mm on the RB67 suits me in similar ways. If you are more of a long lens person, you would probably prefer something longer, like the 90mm lens or the 127mm lens as a "standard lens.
The 127mm lens is the physically smallest in the line. That might be important to consider, because a camera body with WLF, two backs and two or three lenses is all together quite heavy and bulky.
If you intend to use the camera hand-held, the left-hand trigger grips made by Mamiya for the RB67 (and the C330) are highly recommended.

 

[tedr1]

Light seals are an issue when working outdoors in sunlight, working indoors with available light is less of a challenge for light seals. The SD back includes baffling against sunlight and doesn't have the compressible polymer seals that are used by the ProS backs, unfortunately these seals age and disintegrate, whereas the SD baffles last forever. Rotten seals can be replaced by the owner, it is a time consuming fiddly task that begins with removing the remains of the old seals. It is not only the film holder that has seals, the revolving back has them also.

When looking for lenses obtain images of the rear face, this is where wear from use is evident, heavily worn lenses may have shutters that are near the end of their life. This precaution may not be necessary with places like KEH with a good return policy.

 

[Alan Gales]

I used to own an RZ67. My three lens kit was a 50mm ULD, 110mm and 180mm. The 110mm lens is an RZ lens only. If I had an RB I would get a 90 or 127mm to complete a three lens kit. Myself, I'd get the 127 but that is entirely personal preference.

As Matt wisely suggests, get the left-hand trigger grip. I had one for my RZ and it improved the camera's handling immensely.

 

[chassis]

Your two lens list is a very good start. Agree with the Pro SD backs as a first choice. While it is true that Pro S backs in good condition are nice to have, if you can't see the film back in your hands before you buy, there is an unknown factor at play.

If/when you add the normal lens, I like the 90mm because it is slightly wide for a "normal" lens. I have compared the 90mm RB lens against normal lenses in other formats, and the 90mm Mamiya has a nicely wider perspective than most so-called normal lenses.

I don't see a need for more than one sharp long lens. For me this is the 180mm. The 150mm is something of a one trick pony, a soft portrait lens. I can be used without soft diffusers but there is not much written about this. The 180 and 140 get good reviews. I have the 180 and don't see the need for the 140. Maybe the 150 but only for its soft focus capability.

For accessories, there are many good ones. These are what I have and like them all:

- Bellows hood G
- Prism finder model 2
- Focus magnifying loupe for prism finder
- Multi angle grip
- Double cable release

Be sure to have front and rear lens caps, and hoods, for all lenses. Also be sure to have body caps. A spare film back is good if you are shooting different emulsions.

Handheld, this camera for me is a challenge. I have been involved in photography for 40 years, and still don't feel I can do my best work with this camera, handheld. For me I love this camera on a tripod, whether indoors or out hiking.

 

[Larry the sailor]

For any camera I like to have a wide, a "normal" and a long lens for a basic "kit". Not absolutely required but it suits my sense of proportion.
I've got a 50mm, 127mm and 180mm. So far they have done all I want to do with the RB67.

 

[ctrout]

Thanks for all of the input. It's reassuring to know that the research I did before diving into this was time well spent. I think that when I get a third lens, it will likely be the 90mm because I have gotten used to the 50mm standard for the toy cameras although I've heard that technicall 43mm is closer to the perspective seen by the human eye. I am strongly considering picking up the 40mm SMC-M lens for my Pentax MX for that reason and for the portability. Anyway, back on topic.

I could easily see myself eventually having the 50, 65, 90, 127, 180, and 250 eventually. The reason that I say this is because I've always been a zoom lens guy and I think that I may feel limited if I only had the three lenses. Also, I tend to carry lots of gear while I'm out for fear of losing that once in a lifetime shot. Last summer, I went on an 11 mile backpacking trip for three days in the mountains of Idaho at 9000 feet and carried a Canon Eos 5D3, 24-105L, 70-200 F2.8L IS, 100-400 L V2, and a 1.4x extender along with the tent, sleeping bag, fishing gear, water filter, and food. The trip was physically brutal but I had everything I needed to get the one in a million shot that never presented itself. I'm not opposed to carrying some weight.

 

[Alan Gales]

I have a love/hate relationship with zoom lenses. I much prefer primes except when shooting sports where I absolutely love zooms. You may be surprised after buying a three lens kit how easy it is to just "zoom" with your feet to fill in-between focal lengths.

 

[M Carter]

I've shot the Rb commercially and for personal projects for close to 20 years.

The 180mm is just a near-magical, special lens - shooting mostly fashion in the film days, it was pretty much always on the RB. Rarely shot with anything else. I only got a 127mm in the last couple years, and it's a fabulous, small lens.

I have the 65mm - it seems easier to find than a 50, and it's a great focal length for landscapes, old buildings, etc. Excellent lens and small. I've got a 250 but haven't really used it yet, I have a nudes project where I want some serious compression in the images - may need the 360 or even 500 for what I envision though.

A prism finder? Hmmm - some shots you can't get without it, but they're heavy and dark, I have one but avoid it when possible. The L-grip is pretty great though.

The best deal on backs is get a 220 Pro-S back and a foam reseal kit from eBay. 120 works fine in the 220 backs.

But man, that 180 RB "C" lens - it's really a lovely thing for people:

 

[paul ron]

The one and only thing to remember with an RB is if it doesn't work.... DO NOT FORCE IT!

More than likely its human error. And something to keep in the back of your hat when shooting... there is a little silver tab sticking out of the revolving back exactly where your hand will support the camera (bottom right corner).... if your camera doesn't fire... more than likely your hand is pushing the tab in. I get so many complaints of intermittent firing problems that say if they turn the camera just a bit it works perfectly.

have fun with your Russian tank.

BTW I love a prism on mine. Yeah its a heavy chunk of glass but it makes critical focusing so my easier and I guarantee you will get hooked on it. Prisms can be found for $50.

The 180mm lens is a sweet portrait all around lens for the bokeh whore in ya. If you want to shed some weight.. get the 127mm... its short, small and a beautiful semi normal lens instead of the 90.

it takes some practice but hand held is easy with a good strap... get the wide Mamiya strap, not that optech crap.

 

[Neil Grant]

...just to add something different: you'll need to get used to the shallower depth-of-field a medium format camera will give compared to your 'full-framer'. Also the squarer format can take some getting used to. Field-of-view wise, I regard a 50mm RB as like a 28mm for full-frame but with 'more' top and bottom. Large format users would call this your 'indirect movements'. The freedom of framing this gives can let you alter the shapes of objects quite significantly - especially if close. I've got many lenses for the RB system and like others have said, the 180mm is a real gem. Probably the longest you could use hand-held for any length of time would be the 127mm: longer focal lengths just become too unwieldy with the associated, longer bellows extensions you need for focusing. A two-lens 'walk around' kit that could 'hoover up' a range of photos might be 65mm and 127mm, with a 6x8cm back for a bit more real estate.

 

[Andre Noble]

... there is a little silver tab sticking out of the revolving back exactly where your hand will support the camera (bottom right corner).... if your camera doesn't fire... more than likely your hand is pushing the tab in. I get so many complaints of intermittent firing problems that say if they turn the camera just a bit it works perfectly.

Paul, if you get a chance can you snap a picture with your cell phone of the silver tab you are referring too. I have a whole RB system and still cannot figure out how I am doing exactly what you say in regards to intermittent firing problems. Thanks in advance for your effort.

 

[clingfilm]

it takes some practice but hand held is easy with a good strap... get the wide Mamiya strap, not that optech crap.

Dangit I knew something like this would come up. When I was researching which strap I should get for it I came to the conclusion that the OpTech one would be best - how come you're on the other side? Also, what strap are you referring to?

 

[ctrout]

Lots of great discussion here. Thanks again. I'm starting to rethink the 90mm as the third lens and maybe getting the 127mm K/L instead. I've read about how beautiful the color and contrast is from that lens. Also, where it is just a bit longer than the 90, it could hold me over as a first lens instead of getting the 180. So maybe I'll get the 127 first, followed by either a 50mm C or 65mm. I may find that the 65mm and 127mm will do everything I need. I guess I'll find out closer to the first of May when my mad money budget is back up to lens purchasing levels.

 

[MattKing]

As far as colour and contrast are concerned, all of the Mamiya RB lenses, in all versions (un-designated, NB, C and K/L) are excellent. The differences between the versions are minimal. Some prefer the later versions of the 50mm, but my C 50mm is truly excellent.
Make your decision on focal length, condition, and size.

 

[ac12]

Think VERY carefully about your lens kit, and the order of acquisition. Cuz once you commit and start buying lenses, it can be expensive to change.
Maybe you don't need a wide lens for what you shoot.
Portrait ranges from a big family group down to 1 person tight head shot. And how much space you have. Which lens to select depends on these variables, and a few others.

And you may have to compromise.
Example I shoot Hasselblad (6x6), and my original kit plan was 40+80+180.
- I had wanted the widest lens that I could get/afford. Because I've been in places where my back was literally up against the wall, and could not get further back. But the cost premium and additional bulk of the 40 over the 50, drove me to compromise on the 50. So far the compromise on the 50 has worked out. But I'm sure I will get bit in the butt one day and wish I got the wider 40.
- On the other end, same thing with the 180 over the 150, bulk and cost. But here I got a good deal on a newish 150 CFI, so I compromised on the 150.
And in the end, I ended up with the standard 50+80+150 kit.

Other people use different kits: 60+120(macro)+250 (3-lens), or 60+120 (2-lens) or 60+150 (2-lens)

Match the kit to YOUR shooting plans.

Remember, you can always crop in the darkroom, but you can't get more than what is on the film.

 

[flavio81]

My advice:

1. Read the user manual before operating the camera
2. Read the user manual before operating the camera
3. See (1) and (2)
4. Start with the 90mm lens. It is truly "universal".
5. As @ac12 says, think VERY carefully about your lens kit. These lenses are heavy and big so probably you'll carry no more than 2 in your bag.
6. There are no duds. 50/65/90/127/180 are all great.
7. If you get the 50 or the 65, learn how to use the "floating system" ring.
8. Yes, you can take it outside of the studio. Many of us actually go out on walks with the RB67.
9. Yes, you can handhold it with no problem, even at very low shutter speeds.
10. The 127mm lens is the most compact.

 

[MattKing]

Don't forget the 140 macro.

 

[BetterSense]

It seems to me that a lot of the 180 lenses have bad shutters. I wonder if these lenses have worse shutters, or if the 180 lenses tended to get used professionally a lot and are worn out.

 

[chassis]

Hasn't been my experience. Recently I handled two 180mm lenses, one C and one non-C, and both shutters were snappy and accurate.

 

[MattKing]

Same for my 180mm K/L lens, which I bought new from KEH when they cleared out Mamiya America's stock for them.
Wish I had bought a 90mm lens from them at the same time.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Don't forget the 140 macro.

Excellent lens in all respects.

 

[Larry the sailor]

Dangit I knew something like this would come up. When I was researching which strap I should get for it I came to the conclusion that the OpTech one would be best - how come you're on the other side? Also, what strap are you referring to?

No experience with the wide Mamiya strap so I can't compare but I do have the Optech and it works well for me. I regularly have my RB67 out on moving sailboats and so far it has been secure and comfortable enough for extended use.

 

[Moopheus]

Think VERY carefully about your lens kit, and the order of acquisition. Cuz once you commit and start buying lenses, it can be expensive to change.

Most RB67 lenses can be had at pretty low prices these days. This is actually the danger--because it is inexpensive, it is easy to collect more than you need.

I had the 65 and 127 k/l lenses, and they were both excellent, though I tended to prefer the 65 just because it suited my personal style more. I often forgot to adjust the floating ring.

Dangit I knew something like this would come up. When I was researching which strap I should get for it I came to the conclusion that the OpTech one would be best

I think the OpTech is the only one you can buy new with the proper lugs.