Just to confirm -- if you cock and mount the lens to the cocked body (with the film back off), you can see the lens fire once, but when you recock the body the lens won't fire a second time? And the pallet (internal timing delay for slow speeds) whirs when you dismount the lens? Is the lens then uncocked?
Check the M-X synch setting - put it on X.
That looks correct to me. Also check to be sure the lens isn't set to mirror prefire -- the knob (just visible around the left side of the lens body in that image) should be down against the lens body, not locked in the up position. If the latter, the shutter won't fire when the body release is tripped, but will instead wait for the lens release to be fired (with a cable release, generally, or a sequential double release to allow firing the body first, then the lens). This was meant for use with very slow speeds or T shutter, to control mirror slap induced vibration blur -- but if the lens is set on prefire mode, you can shoot roll after roll with the body release and the shutter will never open after the mirror fires, but everything will look right after you cock the body. In other words, you'll get exactly the result you described originally.
Reset it to the other position, and then move it back to N. It is spring loaded, and can catch if rarely used and not cleaned and adjusted every few years or so.The little button on the side you mentioned is set to 'N'.
Reset it to the other position, and then move it back to N. It is spring loaded, and can catch if rarely used and not cleaned and adjusted every few years or so.
Sounds like a service is required.
These cameras are robust, but they were designed to be maintained as well. It probably needs a CLA, particularly if the lens has not been used for a long time.
Thank you Shutterfinger. I already said this a while ago. Someone should post a photo of their functioning body front so the op can see.Before you send it off to the repair shop check the position the lens cocking mechanism has to be moved to to cock the lens, once cocked it may turn back a little. Now check the cocking ring on the body. Does the body cocking ring move to the same position as the lens cocking ring does when the lens shutter is cocked? I'm sure they are in alignment once cocked. The body cocking ring travel is a fairly easy adjustment. The factory service manual is available at https://learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=639&category=2&secondary=22
Questionable.Shutterfinger is an expert
What part of the UK are you in?
For the problems you've described, the film magazine overhaul seems unrelated -- but that's the cheapest part of the estimate.
If this were the (non-camera) repair shop where I work, I'd think this was saying "we're not sure what's actually wrong, we're hoping a full overhaul of both body and lens/shutter will fix it."
That was my feeling about it as well. A bit like they will thoroughly clean it and spruce it up in the hope it will work and in the meantime charge a fortune for the pleasure.
^ I think this is probably right. My RB had the exact same issues you are describing, and it cost about $140 to repair. However, I took it into a shop where they could look at it. In the states, I have shops where I can mail it in, then they give me a quote after looking at it. It's hard to guess, sight unseen,I'd think this was saying "we're not sure what's actually wrong, we're hoping a full overhaul of both body and lens/shutter will fix it."
Contact Newton and Ellis in Liverpool, they have done quite a few repairs for me at what I consider reasonable prices. If they will work on the Mamiya it will be done well.
I learned years ago that London shops charge London prices.
^ I think this is probably right. My RB had the exact same issues you are describing, and it cost about $140 to repair. However, I took it into a shop where they could look at it. In the states, I have shops where I can mail it in, then they give me a quote after looking at it. It's hard to guess, sight unseen,
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