Mamiya RB67 Help Needed!

[Tom16]

Just to confirm -- if you cock and mount the lens to the cocked body (with the film back off), you can see the lens fire once, but when you recock the body the lens won't fire a second time? And the pallet (internal timing delay for slow speeds) whirs when you dismount the lens? Is the lens then uncocked?

Yes all of the above is what happens.

Any thoughts?

 

[Tom16]

Check the M-X synch setting - put it on X.

Hey Matt,

See picture attached, is this correct?

 

[Donald Qualls]

That looks correct to me. Also check to be sure the lens isn't set to mirror prefire -- the knob (just visible around the left side of the lens body in that image) should be down against the lens body, not locked in the up position. If the latter, the shutter won't fire when the body release is tripped, but will instead wait for the lens release to be fired (with a cable release, generally, or a sequential double release to allow firing the body first, then the lens). This was meant for use with very slow speeds or T shutter, to control mirror slap induced vibration blur -- but if the lens is set on prefire mode, you can shoot roll after roll with the body release and the shutter will never open after the mirror fires, but everything will look right after you cock the body. In other words, you'll get exactly the result you described originally.

 

[MattKing]

Looks good. Now try switching it over to M and then firmly back to X - all to make sure it is fully on X.
Next, follow up what I posted about Mirror-Up photography - Donald appears to agree

 

[Tom16]

That looks correct to me. Also check to be sure the lens isn't set to mirror prefire -- the knob (just visible around the left side of the lens body in that image) should be down against the lens body, not locked in the up position. If the latter, the shutter won't fire when the body release is tripped, but will instead wait for the lens release to be fired (with a cable release, generally, or a sequential double release to allow firing the body first, then the lens). This was meant for use with very slow speeds or T shutter, to control mirror slap induced vibration blur -- but if the lens is set on prefire mode, you can shoot roll after roll with the body release and the shutter will never open after the mirror fires, but everything will look right after you cock the body. In other words, you'll get exactly the result you described originally.

Thanks for your reply.

The little button on the side you mentioned is set to 'N'. I'de read online that getting that the wrong way round was often the cause of the problems when people were getting back blank negatives.

With what we've said above do you think its the lens that needs to go off for repair possibly?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[MattKing]

The little button on the side you mentioned is set to 'N'.

Reset it to the other position, and then move it back to N. It is spring loaded, and can catch if rarely used and not cleaned and adjusted every few years or so.

 

[Tom16]

Reset it to the other position, and then move it back to N. It is spring loaded, and can catch if rarely used and not cleaned and adjusted every few years or so.

Hey Matt,

I've just tried moving it from M and then firmly back to N but still with the same result. I can take one photo where the lens fires but when I go to take the next photo the lens does not open at all...

 

[MattKing]

Sounds like a service is required.
These cameras are robust, but they were designed to be maintained as well. It probably needs a CLA, particularly if the lens has not been used for a long time.

 

[Tom16]

Sounds like a service is required.
These cameras are robust, but they were designed to be maintained as well. It probably needs a CLA, particularly if the lens has not been used for a long time.

Thats what I was leaning towards to be honest. Just looking at it when i remove then lens, the pins on the lens aren't able to make it back to the red and green dots, they just stop half way. The only way to reset them is by manually moving them and they are incredibly stiff.

Thank you for all your suggestions though, I really appreciate it.

 

[shutterfinger]

Before you send it off to the repair shop check the position the lens cocking mechanism has to be moved to to cock the lens, once cocked it may turn back a little. Now check the cocking ring on the body. Does the body cocking ring move to the same position as the lens cocking ring does when the lens shutter is cocked? I'm sure they are in alignment once cocked. The body cocking ring travel is a fairly easy adjustment. The factory service manual is available at https://learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=639&category=2&secondary=22

 

[Ariston]

Before you send it off to the repair shop check the position the lens cocking mechanism has to be moved to to cock the lens, once cocked it may turn back a little. Now check the cocking ring on the body. Does the body cocking ring move to the same position as the lens cocking ring does when the lens shutter is cocked? I'm sure they are in alignment once cocked. The body cocking ring travel is a fairly easy adjustment. The factory service manual is available at https://learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=639&category=2&secondary=22

Thank you Shutterfinger. I already said this a while ago. Someone should post a photo of their functioning body front so the op can see.

Shutterfinger is an expert (I am not). I would listen to whatever he says.

 

[shutterfinger]

Shutterfinger is an expert

Questionable.

Way back in 1996? I bought a RB67 w/127mm lens that was jammed up. Turned out to be the lens shutter was worn beyond repair. I had to disassemble the lens cocking to get the lens off the body. I had to adjust the body cocking to get the replacement lens shutter to cock on the body. If I'm remembering correctly the cocking mechanism will rotate past the nominal static position by 1/2 a gear tooth travel when cocking then rotate back to the nominal position. The cocking shaft is spring loaded so do not let it unwind without counting the number of turns for reassembly tensioning. Use a clock face for determining turning stop position. A 1 minute mark is 6°, a 1° movement makes the difference between works or fails.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Mine is in a box from recent house rearrangement. I can see the box from here, but won't have time to dig up the camera for a couple days.

 

[Tom16]

Hello,

Thanks for everyones suggestions with what might be wrong with the RB67. I sent it away to get an estimate on repair and its come back with a huge repair bill. I wondered if anyone could look at it and see if the think that every repair listed is essential.

 

[seall]

What part of the UK are you in?

 

[Tom16]

What part of the UK are you in?

Cornwall but the repair quote came from london

 

[Donald Qualls]

For the problems you've described, the film magazine overhaul seems unrelated -- but that's the cheapest part of the estimate.

If this were the (non-camera) repair shop where I work, I'd think this was saying "we're not sure what's actually wrong, we're hoping a full overhaul of both body and lens/shutter will fix it."

 

[Tom16]

For the problems you've described, the film magazine overhaul seems unrelated -- but that's the cheapest part of the estimate.

If this were the (non-camera) repair shop where I work, I'd think this was saying "we're not sure what's actually wrong, we're hoping a full overhaul of both body and lens/shutter will fix it."

That was my feeling about it as well. A bit like they will thoroughly clean it and spruce it up in the hope it will work and in the meantime charge a fortune for the pleasure.

 

[Donald Qualls]

That was my feeling about it as well. A bit like they will thoroughly clean it and spruce it up in the hope it will work and in the meantime charge a fortune for the pleasure.

Well, in the meantime they charge their special "working on stuff we don't really know" labor rate for doing no real repairs. I've often wished shops like that would just admit "we're sorry, we can't confidently repair your camera, we'd suggest sending it to shop X instead," rather than charge through the nose so it can be your decision (and their ability to charge a bench fee, inspection fee, estimate charge, whatever they call it) instead of theirs.

 

[Ariston]

I'd think this was saying "we're not sure what's actually wrong, we're hoping a full overhaul of both body and lens/shutter will fix it."

^ I think this is probably right. My RB had the exact same issues you are describing, and it cost about $140 to repair. However, I took it into a shop where they could look at it. In the states, I have shops where I can mail it in, then they give me a quote after looking at it. It's hard to guess, sight unseen,

 

[Willyekerslike]

Contact Newton and Ellis in Liverpool, they have done quite a few repairs for me at what I consider reasonable prices. If they will work on the Mamiya it will be done well.

I learned years ago that London shops charge London prices.

 

[Tom16]

Contact Newton and Ellis in Liverpool, they have done quite a few repairs for me at what I consider reasonable prices. If they will work on the Mamiya it will be done well.

I learned years ago that London shops charge London prices.

Thanks for the recommendation, I will get in touch with them.

 

[Tom16]

^ I think this is probably right. My RB had the exact same issues you are describing, and it cost about $140 to repair. However, I took it into a shop where they could look at it. In the states, I have shops where I can mail it in, then they give me a quote after looking at it. It's hard to guess, sight unseen,

Its lucky that this is just the quote stage, and that they haven't carried out the repair already. Back to the drawing board I guess

 

[Deleted member 88956]

You can get mint body for that cost, likely a whole kit, and probably version SD too.

 

[seall]

Witold, check your pm.