Mamiya RB67 - doing something a little different

[Theo Sulphate]

When the mirror is down do you still need the darkslide when you change lenses?

Wouldn't think so - there should be a light baffle that comes down when the mirror is down.

 

[MattKing]

any good Canadian places for repair would be great info to have!

Horst Wenzel in Vancouver - Google will give you: http://www.canada411.ca/res/6042635820/Horst-Wenzel/227145626.html

 

[MattKing]

When the mirror is down do you still need the darkslide when you change lenses?

No. The darkslide is needed when you change film backs.
You do need to cock the shutter and lower the mirror before you change lenses.

 

[dugrant153]

- ensure dark slide is in before removing back - Not sure if this lock works. Coming from a Bronica ETRS, I made a habit of putting the darkslide back in. I have film in my film back at the moment that I'm testing so don't want to "try" and expose it yet

- ensure dark slide is out before releasing shutter - Yup, the camera refuses to fire unless the darkslide is out (also have to make sure the shutter button is not set to "locked").

- ensure film has been wound on before releasing shutter a second time (unless multi-exposure lever has been moved) - I just realized this depends on the film back. On the Pro S back (When the switch is NOT showing the red dot), the camera let's me multi-exposure... and I realized this after taking three frames and realizing I had many shots left because I was still using the same frame. LOL. I have to manually remember to wind the film or else I over expose... but maybe that's what the red dot is for?
On the Pro (non-S) back, there's a little switch I have to flick before I can wind the film. So with this back, I cock the mirror, flick the switch on the back and the wind the film.... three steps.

- ensure body and lens are cocked before removing the lens - Yup, this applies to my camera.

Horst Wenzel in Vancouver - Google will give you: http://www.canada411.ca/res/6042635820/Horst-Wenzel/227145626.html

Thanks, MattKing. I know he does Leica (my M6 probably needs a slight overhaul) but had no idea he did other cameras other than maybe the Hasselblad? I'll check him out
BTW, if you're in Vancity ever, we should have a coffee and talk film things.

 

[flavio81]

With this camera, you must, MUST read the manual before using it.

Afterwards the operation becomes second nature.

 

[Neil Grant]

The 37mm is a fisheye, it is heavy, expensive, big, but by most accounts it is fantastic.[/QUOTE]

It suffers from a little lateral colour but the centre of field is as sharp as any of the C - lenses. It just manages to cover the 6x8 format if you have one of the 'powerdrive' backs, with the 'petal' hood causing a bit of cut-off in the corners.

 

[dugrant153]

Interesting. So there's a motor-driven film back that allows a slightly wider 6x8 format? (presume it just scrunches the images closer together?).

Also, I've noticed that when I first starting shooting the 180mm F4.5, shutter in the lens occasionally wouldn't fire. After dry firing it a few times and trying to get all the internal parts moving again, it seems to now be more consistently firing. Do the timers in these lenses need "exercise" if they've been sitting for a long time in order to loosen up?

 

[Neil Grant]

... no free lunch I'm afraid - the frame spacing is unchanged but you only get '9 on 120'. In addition to the powered back (there are two types), you will need the correct revolving adaptor and baffle. Both have slightly wider openings than the standard types.

... sounds like your lens needs a service.

 

[MattKing]

The 6x8 revolving adapter is often marked that way.

One of the great things about the Mamiya 6x8 format is that all 9 negatives fit into a single Printfile page. Ten 6x7 negatives won't fit into a single page.

 

[nworth]

When the mirror is down do you still need the darkslide when you change lenses?

Yes, I'm afraid so. And there is no interlock for this. Light leaks around the mirror and fogs the film at the edges, including the edges of the previous and next frames. Depending on the repair of the camera, the fogging is not very much, but it is enough to ruin pictures. I found out the hard way.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Yes, I'm afraid so. And there is no interlock for this. Light leaks around the mirror and fogs the film at the edges, including the edges of the previous and next frames. Depending on the repair of the camera, the fogging is not very much, but it is enough to ruin pictures. I found out the hard way.

Maybe the Pro S has an improvement then. It has a baffle around the mirror when it is down and there's no way for light to get through.

 

[dugrant153]

From what I can see with my Pro (non-S) RB67, I don't see any light sneaking through when the mirror is down. That being said, having used a Bronica ETRS, I make it a point to put the dark slide in when I remove the insert and take it out when I'm about to shoot.

Now a Q on focusing screens. I saw a "C" type focusing screen but am wondering if this would fit my RB67 Pro (non-S)? From what I'm gathering, there may be different focusing screens for different bodies? .... Just want to make sure I get the right one.

The other option is a Beattie screen...

 

[M Carter]

There's one really nice accessory for the RB, god knows where to find it though - a rubber knob that slips over the focus knob (either side) and makes the knob "bigger". I have one, and I like it a lot.

 

[MattKing]

There's one really nice accessory for the RB, god knows where to find it though - a rubber knob that slips over the focus knob (either side) and makes the knob "bigger". I have one, and I like it a lot.

It is also usable on the C330, so if you are looking for one, add that to your search criteria.

 

[Trail Images]

There's one really nice accessory for the RB, god knows where to find it though - a rubber knob that slips over the focus knob (either side) and makes the knob "bigger". I have one, and I like it a lot.

......if they can be found it is a nice feature. There are two styles, one with a slight indent or offset for the cocking lever side. I have one on both knobs and the fine adjustment are much easier.

 

[dugrant153]

OK, I've had a chance to experiment and take my camera with me on a wedding as well as personal work.

While the camera is heavy, it's more awkwardly bulky and doesn't really sit at my side comfortably (I use the side straps). I tried a blackrapid strap (connects on the tripod mount) and the dark slide ended up falling out. I feel like I'm photographing with a cat.

Anyways, straps aside, the main issue I have is probably my own error: double exposing. I don't think my camera has an interlock to prevent double exposure. More than a few times I'll advance the shutter but forget to advance the film back... and ended up with these neat but unintended double exposures. Have a I missed a button or a setting that would prevent double exposures?

 

[flavio81]

OK, I've had a chance to experiment and take my camera with me on a wedding as well as personal work.

While the camera is heavy, it's more awkwardly bulky and doesn't really sit at my side comfortably (I use the side straps). I tried a blackrapid strap (connects on the tripod mount) and the dark slide ended up falling out. I feel like I'm photographing with a cat.

I use a same kind of strap and find it excellent for carrying the RB67.
As for the dark slide, why are you carrying it the camera with the dark slide on? Leave the dark slide in the camera bag. The dark slide is only necessary when changing film backs!

For the double exposure error - it is possible that one of the pins that "tells" the film back an exposure is made is stuck due to dirt or lack of lubrication.

 

[MattKing]

Have a I missed a button or a setting that would prevent double exposures?

You have missed nothing.
The original "Pro" model (with red double exposure warning flag only) was replaced relatively quickly with the Pro-S, which added the necessary interlock.
I started with the Pro model, and developed a habit of winding the back immediately after exposure.
Alternately, you can get into the habit of checking before each photo whether the red double exposure warning flag shows on the top of the film back.
You can also use either the shutter release lock or the dark slide release lock to prevent accidental exposures when the camera is both cocked and wound.

 

[dugrant153]

Alternately, you can get into the habit of checking before each photo whether the red double exposure warning flag shows on the top of the film back.
You can also use either the shutter release lock or the dark slide release lock to prevent accidental exposures when the camera is both cocked and wound.

Thanks, Matt. Usually I have made it a habit of checking for the red flag. However, in the heat of battle, it's quite easy to forget. I'll have to make it a point to advance the film forward. I've also put some coloured tape on the advancing tabs in order to visually remind myself.

I've tried to make it a habit to put in the shutter release lock. This of course has had the opposite effect of me losing a moment when I push the shutter button and nothing goes. I try to keep the dark slide out all the time when I'm in shooting mode as that was what I was forgetting on my Bronica.

As cool as double exposures are, they're not cool all the time... and especially if you don't intend them!

 

[flavio81]

Thanks, Matt. Usually I have made it a habit of checking for the red flag. However, in the heat of battle, it's quite easy to forget. I'll have to make it a point to advance the film forward. I've also put some coloured tape on the advancing tabs in order to visually remind myself.

Just get used to immediately cocking shutter and advancing film immediately after taking a pic.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

I'm a bit concerned about the dark slide falling out - there should be enough tightness and pressure to keep it in when you want it in.

Maybe there is too much looseness with that back.

 

[DcAnalogue]

On my RB67 ProS there's a rail on a side for the dark slide (think it was intended for not loosing it)...
Btw. Impossible to make mistakes (i.e. unwanted double exposure or removing back whitout dark slide on etc.)... there's plenty of interlocks....
Btw (2) Check for Pro SD backs... don't need light seals....

 

[dugrant153]

I'm a bit concerned about the dark slide falling out - there should be enough tightness and pressure to keep it in when you want it in.

Maybe there is too much looseness with that back.

Oh, the darkslide is nice and tight when it's in the film back. It's when I put it on the side of the camera and I flip the camera upside down (i.e. when it's hanging from a camera strap that attaches to the tripod mount) that the dark slide fallws out.

On my RB67 ProS there's a rail on a side for the dark slide (think it was intended for not loosing it)...
Btw. Impossible to make mistakes (i.e. unwanted double exposure or removing back whitout dark slide on etc.)... there's plenty of interlocks....
Btw (2) Check for Pro SD backs... don't need light seals....

It seems the Mamiya RB67 Pro (Non S or SD) does NOT have the interlock for unwanted double exposure. I checked last night and Matt King is correct. While I have a Pro SD film back, the body itself also needs the interlock. My old RB67 Pro does not have it. Will have to learn to wind the film first always.