Mamiya RB67--Delayed Shutter 90mm f/3.8

[wjlapier]

So, as I continue to put together another RB67 rig I've come across a lens that has a slight delay in actuating the shutter--longer at times--when pressing the shutter button. How much delay should there be if any? I don't have another lens to test this one against. I bought this one from Roberts and the description was it was working properly and rated 80-89%.

When it arrived yesterday the slow shutter speeds had a long delay and the faster one's were a bit better but the delay was still there. After exercising the shutter for a while the shutter started to actuate faster--I'm probably going to return this lens and seek out another one. Just making sure this is unusual for a Mamiya RB67 lens before I send it back.

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

Unusual. Send it back.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

I'd say minor delay in releasing shutter is there, but shutter itself is like any other so if it sounds slowish it's not where it needs to be. But since you stated an improvement after some exercising, if this was a good deal and lens is otherwise good, I'd continue tripping it for quite a bit longer before giving up on it.

 

[MattKing]

It needs servicing. Even if exercise helps, that just means that it is in need of at least a CLA.

 

[wjlapier]

Thank you for the confirmation. Roberts offered to take it back or a partial refund and I keep the lens. I don't know what the partial amount is. The lens cost ~$75+tax. It looks rough but the glass is clean and aperture and shutter speed rings are not wiggly. Nothing rattling. Just the slight delay in the shutter actuation.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

What's been previously said. On a properly working lens, the shutter fires immediately. I'd return it.

 

[narsuitus]

Last year, I had to purchase three RB67 90mm lenses before I found one that was in decent condition. The first had fungus and very long shutter delay at all shutter speeds. The second had a slight shutter delay at the long shutter speeds. The third had a slight shutter delay at the short shutter speeds. I kept the third and had it repaired. The repair cost was about the same as the lens cost.

 

[michaelfoto]

Did you check that the flash sync is set to X. If not there will be a short delay on shutter as it is intended to first fire the bulb and then the shutter, as bulbs are slower to reach full light than electronic flashes.
So if on M sync, change it to X.

 

[wiltw]

There is a mechanical linkage between the body and the Seiko shutter mechanism of the lens, and that can be where the source of the delay arises. And that source MIGHT be within the workings of the BODY, or it could be in the workings of the LENS. So it is important to compare behavior of the affected lens vs. a different lens, to see if the issue remains with both.

 

[wjlapier]

Roberts offered me a $35 refund. I declined. I considered $50 and thought I would examine the shutter myself after looking over a couple of videos. Access to the shutter might be a problem for now, so I'll probably send it back. I have a another lens coming soon.

The new lens I'll check the body against when I get back home.

I did have the lens on the X flash sync.

Thank you for the comments. Looking forward to finally putting this thing together.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

Last year, I had to purchase three RB67 90mm lenses before I found one that was in decent condition. The first had fungus and very long shutter delay at all shutter speeds. The second had a slight shutter delay at the long shutter speeds. The third had a slight shutter delay at the short shutter speeds. I kept the third and had it repaired. The repair cost was about the same as the lens cost.

If I may ask, what was the price paid. I suppose this was a C lens (or KL)? KL lenses in great to MINT condition are in $300 range (assuming mostly Japan / South Korea sources and delivery to USA with no customs fees). Year and half ago I bought a 75 KL attached to an SD body and 120 SD 67 back attached to the latter, all in Mint shape, for $450. Given this I'm basically after KL lenses and apply some patience to the process.

 

[narsuitus]

If I may ask, what was the price paid.

My lens was a Mamiya-Sekor C 90mm f/3.8 lens in excellent condition that I purchased used for $107 USD from a vendor in Japan. The lens worked fine except it had an intermittent slight shutter delay at 1/400 and 1/250 second shutter speeds.

I had the lens and 3 film backs repaired for $310 USD by:
International Camera Repair
9 North Wabash Avenue
#503
Chicago, Illinois 60602
USA
www.icamera.com

They did an excellent job.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

My lens was a Mamiya-Sekor C 90mm f/3.8 lens in excellent condition that I purchased used for $107 USD from a vendor in Japan. The lens worked fine except it had an intermittent slight shutter delay at 1/400 and 1/250 second shutter speeds.

I had the lens and 3 film backs repaired for $310 USD by:
International Camera Repair
9 North Wabash Avenue
#503
Chicago, Illinois 60602
USA
www.icamera.com

They did an excellent job.

Unfortunately I only have experience with KL lenses and in great to mint condition at that, but from what this one wound up costing it kind of supports my notion to go after best condition / newest line for likely many years of trouble free operation.

 

[wjlapier]

Great news thus far. The 90mm lens will go back to Roberts. A 127mm f/3.8 lens arrived and looks and operates as I thought it should.

My 220/120 "power" back has film loaded and the counter looks to work fine for now--I'll know more later after I take this camera out for some pics.

Interestingly, this RB combo feels light enough to carry and shoot handheld.

I'm curious about something about the lens. The front ring with the focus scale--is it coupled to a floating element, or only there to see what the range of focus is?

 

[MattKing]

I'm curious about something about the lens. The front ring with the focus scale--is it coupled to a floating element, or only there to see what the range of focus is?

It is a depth of field scale.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

...

I'm curious about something about the lens. The front ring with the focus scale--is it coupled to a floating element, or only there to see what the range of focus is?

Is that a KL lens? If not there is no adjustable floating element to worry about.

 

[wjlapier]

It's not the KL or C lens.

I have another question to ask if you guys don't mind. I have the original Professional body--pre S and SD. I think I know the answer, but, are there no red lines on the first version RB67? If no red lines, what focus screen should I be in search of? For now, all I see in the viewfinder are two lines in the vertical portrait mode. I shoot mostly horizontally so it would be helpful to have those lines to compose.

 

[MattKing]

The lines aren't on the screen.
You can always add your own lines to the screen - with a felt pen.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

It's not the KL or C lens.

I have another question to ask if you guys don't mind. I have the original Professional body--pre S and SD. I think I know the answer, but, are there no red lines on the first version RB67? If no red lines, what focus screen should I be in search of? For now, all I see in the viewfinder are two lines in the vertical portrait mode. I shoot mostly horizontally so it would be helpful to have those lines to compose.

The 2 red lines should shift around when back is rotated so you get vertical or horizontal framing showing only

 

[MattKing]

The 2 red lines should shift around when back is rotated so you get vertical or horizontal framing showing only

Not with the original, Pro model. There are fixed vertical lines showing when the back is set to vertical, but they disappear when the back is set to horizontal.
The red lines are found in the later models.
I was thinking about this after my previous post. To the OP, are there not fixed dotted lines showing the edge of the horizontal format?
Page 41 of the manual shows those dotted lines on all 5 versions of the screens that Mamiya made. Perhaps your camera has an after-market screen.

 

[wjlapier]

The vertical lines are dotted. After looking at the screen some more I think I can better estimate where the lines could be in the horizontal position.

Thanks to everyone who commented and helped.