Mamiya NC1000 shutter problem

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RLangham

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So I bought a box containing an NC1000 and a bunch of other stuff, mainly because I wanted an m42 lens and a handle flash that were in it. As for the camera, it's a funny takeoff on the OM series aesthetic. I kinda like it.

I had opened the battery case and seen that batteries had leaked inside, so I wrote off the camera completely. But when I got it home I decided to clean it out and put in some very fresh silver oxide batteries that had only been in my Nikon F2 for about a month, in which time I had used the camera maybe once. They were quite fresh at any rate. I was surprised to see that the battery check showed brightly when I pressed the button.

An interesting thing happens when i fire the shutter though... if the camera is not in comparative darkness, the camera stops down the lens to the correct aperture as indicated by the meter (or whatever aperture the lens is set to if it's not in the automatic position), but the shutter fires mechanically only (i.e., with no delay). This is obviously most noticeable at slow speeds where the delay would be audible.

When the camera is pointed somewhere dim, the shutter will fire correctly about 60% of the time. Total darkness doesn't seem to improve matters.

This indicates that there's a bad connection somewhere, probably caused by the acid leak, and the camera isn't drawing enough power to both meter a high light level, and run the electromagnets that delay the second curtain--at least, that's my guess. When the meter is drawing less, sometimes the magnets are strong enough and sometimes they aren't, I guess.

I figure this might be a fun project since I have basically no money in the camera and no real investment in it. Does anyone know enough about this to know where I should look for a bad connection?
 

Mamiya_Repair

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The battery box has two connections, both blue wires, one leading to the trigger switch under the bottom cover and the other leading to the main board under the top cover. If you are getting the mechanical speed only (1/1000) then the first thing to check is battery power to the main board via the blue wire coming from the battery box after removing the top cover. I suspect you will need to clean connections or replace the blue power wire from the battery box to the main board. The mirror box will need to be removed.

As for power consumption, at full darkness the meter pulls around 150 micro amps and a moderate scene would bring that up to around 400 micro amps. The electromagnet holding the second curtain takes lots more juice, around 12 milliamps at a one second exposure.
 

Tomwlkr

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So I bought a box containing an NC1000 and a bunch of other stuff, mainly because I wanted an m42 lens and a handle flash that were in it. As for the camera, it's a funny takeoff on the OM series aesthetic. I kinda like it.

I had opened the battery case and seen that batteries had leaked inside, so I wrote off the camera completely. But when I got it home I decided to clean it out and put in some very fresh silver oxide batteries that had only been in my Nikon F2 for about a month, in which time I had used the camera maybe once. They were quite fresh at any rate. I was surprised to see that the battery check showed brightly when I pressed the button.

An interesting thing happens when i fire the shutter though... if the camera is not in comparative darkness, the camera stops down the lens to the correct aperture as indicated by the meter (or whatever aperture the lens is set to if it's not in the automatic position), but the shutter fires mechanically only (i.e., with no delay). This is obviously most noticeable at slow speeds where the delay would be audible.

When the camera is pointed somewhere dim, the shutter will fire correctly about 60% of the time. Total darkness doesn't seem to improve matters.

This indicates that there's a bad connection somewhere, probably caused by the acid leak, and the camera isn't drawing enough power to both meter a high light level, and run the electromagnets that delay the second curtain--at least, that's my guess. When the meter is drawing less, sometimes the magnets are strong enough and sometimes they aren't, I guess.

I figure this might be a fun project since I have basically no money in the camera and no real investment in it. Does anyone know enough about this to know where I should look for a bad connection?

Onced owned one, if I remember right the camera fires at 1/1000 sec with no battery
 
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