Mamiya 645 accessories interchangeable?

[B&Jdude]

I have been looking at possibly buying a 645J kit, and have been checking Fleabay and a few other pickpocket places to price accessories for the 645J. Virtually everything I find is listed as being for the 645 PRO. Do both of these cameras share an interchangeability of accessories, or do I need to be careful to buy only accessories specifically designated for use with the 645J?

 

[thebanana]

The Pro is a different beast, so I doubt there is any interchangeability. You're looking for accessories relating to the 645M series of cameras. I have a 1000s model and love it.

 

[MattKing]

The lenses are interchangeable.

Just about anything else that will work with the 645 Super or Pro or Pro Tl or 645E won't work with a 645J.

You may find, however, that some of the accessories for some of the other, older models will work with the 645J.

Hope this helps.

Matt

 

[B&Jdude]

Thanks, guys, info like this will help me avoid throwing money into stuff that I can't use! I wish I had a book that describes all the Mamiya models and what works with what . . . somewhat like the flea market Hassy book I picked up some time back. I have been looking for an article or web site that describes the various 645 models, older and newer, gives their medel designations, and tells what accessories fit what bodies.

banana, I have seen the model 1000 mentioned, too. How does it fit in with models designated as 645whatever?

EuGene

 

[reellis67]

All the the accessories that fit the J will work with the 645 and 645 1000 models. The Super and Pro use something different, but I can't speak to the specifics of those two because I've never owned either. I can say that I first owned a 645J and that I replaced it with the 645 1000 and everything I moved from the J worked fine on it. The bodies are exactly the same with the exception of features.

- Randy

 

[B&Jdude]

Thanks, Randy, for some more useful info. I certainly don't expect to become an expert on Mamiyas, but I do want to learn enough to avoid the mess I got my naive self into about 15 yeard ago when I didn't know the differences between the various Omega Rapid and Rapid Omega models.

EuGene

 

[Greg_E]

Model 645, 645J, 1000s share all common parts between them, but will not work with any Super, Pro, ProTL accessories save the film inserts. The manual focus lenses will work on all of the bodies including the AF bodies (without coupling the meter or of course AF operation).


There are 3 prism finders for the first generation bodies (two metered), and a waist level finder. One left hand grip (with release trigger). One power winder (noisey beast). 120 inserts. 220 inserts. Auto macro tubes (works with gen1 and gen2 bodies). Macro bellows. 5 Mamiya focus screens.

Somehow the macro bellows is different from what they recommend for the generation 2 bodies, but I'm not at all sure why. May have something to do the the remote release connections. The 1000s differs from the 645, and 645J in that it goes up to 1/1000 as the fastest shutter speed.

I have a 1000s, and a Super, and Pro body and accessories for both systems.

 

[glbeas]

Are there any manual focus lenes the will not work on a 645 AFD? I'd like to get a few more primes and I'm not enamored of the prices I've seen for the AFD lenses. Plus I find I like shooting in manual mode more because the AF lacks the snappy response I'm used to from my EOS cameras.

 

[Greg_E]

SInce I don't have one of the AF, hard to really say. But it was supposed to be compatible with the previous lens mount, so they should all work with the limitations mentioned. Too bad they didn't bother to make a way for the meter to couple with the MF lenses, wouldn't have been that hard to accomplish.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

The M645j, 1000S, etc. received three lug bayonet mount Sekor C lenses.

 

[Travis Nunn]

Check out KEH's website, their accessories and such are listed with the model that it will fit. Takes the guesswork out and if you still have questions or just want to double check, you can always call them.

I prefer to buy from them rather than the bay anyway.

 

[B&Jdude]

Thanks, Travis. I have never been to the KEH website before, so I'll check it out.

 

[natelfo]

"Are there any manual focus lenes the will not work on a 645 AFD? I'd like to get a few more primes and I'm not enamored of the prices I've seen for the AFD lenses. Plus I find I like shooting in manual mode more because the AF lacks the snappy response I'm used to from my EOS cameras.
__________________
Gary Beasley"

All Mamiya manual focus lenses will work on the AF, AFD, and ADFII. You will have to use stop-down metering, meaning you set the aperture you wish to shoot using the command dial, (camera must be in M or Av mode) and compose, focus and meter with lens wide open. Then set aperture ring on lens to match what you set on the command dial and shoot. If you are using Av mode, make sure you hit the AE lock before you stop down or the camera will meter will compensate, thinking that f/8 is wide open for example. This takes some getting used to, but for primes, it's not that bad. I think the cost difference is justified, but with zooms, I wouldn't recommend getting a MF lens unless you don't expect to take to many hand-held shots (it will take forever to set up each shot, especially when you change focal lengths). I myself am planning to buy a 35 mm MF lens for my AFDII because they are so much less expensive used, but I am definitely going AF with a 55-110, even though I manually focus most of the time. Hope this helps.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Good tip. Thanks, man. And welcome to the group.

 

[B&Jdude]

Chris:

Howdy. As you have observed, I am still skulking.

Trying to learn all I can about the 645J and what accessories will fit it.

EuGene

 

[Christopher Walrath]

CAUGHT YOU!!! TURNCOAT!!!!!!

Kidding. Yeah, I want you to buy mine. But more importantly, I want you to have something you're gonna be happy with in the long run.

 

[B&Jdude]

Believe it or not, I have not even thought of looking at anyone else's . . . I'm trying to learn what accessories will fit those things while I drag my feet for 12 more days in hopes you weaken and drop the price some more. I'm a miser, see, and I try to steal cameras.

Seriously, I do want to get a MF kit that is a bit more advanced that my Omega Rapids and Zenobia folder! A friend of mine up in Virginia had Mamiya 645 gear and he loved it . . . I was with him several times when he was shooting and it sure impressed me.

By the way, I just ordered a Mamiya 645 repair manual. That might indicate something . . . ?

Cheers, EuGene

 

[Greg_E]

Personally, I would shoot for a 1000s in the generation 1 bodies. And if you want a metered prism, the AE prism is the one to have. Eventually you will want the winder, so you might as well get it early. Take it apart and lube the gears really well, it will cut the noise in half. Too bad they didn't make it belt drive.

And remember, with the generation 1 bodies, you can not change rolls of film mid roll unless you want to sacrifice the remaining shots on the roll*. to do that you would need to go with the newer generation bodies with the film back (not the 645e body!). Also there is no TTL with the generation 1 or Super or regular Pro bodies.


*yes you can change them in a dark room or changing bag.

 

[B&Jdude]

Greg:

I guess I have gotten a bit spoiled by 35mm cameras . . . because of their smaller size, I just loaded up 2 or 3 bodies with different types of film (plus an unloaded spare), then just switched lenses to a different body to change films. Each body is labeled with what type film is in it.

Now, with the MF bodies generally somewhat bigger, that might not be the way to do it, as the size of the kit might be a bit unwieldy with 3 or 4 bodies in a BIG bag.

EuGene

 

[Greg_E]

3 or 4 of the generation 1 bodies will weigh a very large amount. I would not even consider doing that unless I had no choice, and was packing so far away from civilization that there was no option. Film backs are light, but they do take a lot of room. If you get a motor drive ALWAYS make sure you have a manual crank to wind the film. The battery in the camera will last a long time with just metering and letting the shutter go, so if your winder goes dead, you can still shoot with the crank. To that I would also suggest one Super body, it has a mechanical (1/60 second) shutter release so that again if all else fails, you still have a manual method to fire the shutter. Unfortunately the Super has the worst shutter curtain design, when the curtain mechanism goes, throw the body away. They fixed this in the Pro bodies.

My favorite motor drive for the gen2 bodies is the one that takes the 2cr battery. It is belt drive so nice and quiet, and also light because it has such a small battery. The 6AA grips weigh a bit more.

If you want multiple bodies, I would say to of the gen2 in the bag, with lenses and at least 2 film backs. That is going to come in at more than 20 pounds (I haven't weighed mine but it is at least as heavy as a 20 pound sack of dog food). Then keep additional bodies/backs/whatevers in the car in a hard case. If you are hiking with the gear, think long and hard about exactly what you need. Remember that the fisheye lenses weigh a very large amount, especially if you opt for one of the Russian lenses to save a few bucks. My 30mm weighs about 8 pounds alone (all glass lens elements). My bag normally has a SUper and Pro body, 3 film backs, sometimes 4 if I bring the 135 back, 55mm-110mm-150mm-210mm lenses, 3 extension tubes, one or two winders, one or two prisms, waist level finder (always have this), one or two manual film cranks (again always have one), a light meter, and sometimes the 30mm and 80mm lenses. If I'm really going for serious, the bellows lens shade will be in their too and sometime the 500mm f5.6 will go on the outside which is another 5 or so pounds with its case.

You can cram all that stuff into a pretty compact bag, but it does get very heavy. Add your tripod onto that stuff, and if need be some digital equipment and it's a lot to carry at one time. (my tripod is at least 10 pounds).

 

[Christopher Walrath]

If you want film interchangeability, then interchangeable backs are really the way to go. Carry a back up body but film backs weigh much less than a camera body does.

 

[B&Jdude]

Greg & Chris: I was making that point when I said that I got spoiled by 35mm. I could carry about 4 different lenses, 4 bodies, plenty of film, and a cheapo generic tripod and had to hang onto the bag tightly to keep it from floating away. Then I discovered MF and (shudder!) LF and learned that weight is an important consideration with those genres that I didn't think of with 35mm.

EuGene

 

[Greg_E]

Actually, the Super and Pro are not that much heavier than a 35mm body (about twice the weight with 2cr drive and prism), but the lenses are pretty heavy compared to the common variety of 35mm lens. If you were shooting with APO lenses on the 35mm, then the weight might be comparable again.

Is there a used camera store anywhere near you? They would almost certainly have a Mamiya 645 of one flavor or another. Maybe even go to a "Pro" store and pick up the AFD model, I doubt the weight is much different between the AFD and the Super or Pro, they might even have a ProTL that you could try.

 

[glbeas]

'nother question popping up here. I saw several 150mm AF lenses go for pretty low prices compared to all the other focal lengths on Ebay. Is there a pertinent reason for such low prices on these lenses or is this just a fluke of the occasion? Are they worth getting if another can be had for a similar price?

 

[MattKing]

'nother question popping up here. I saw several 150mm AF lenses go for pretty low prices compared to all the other focal lengths on Ebay. Is there a pertinent reason for such low prices on these lenses or is this just a fluke of the occasion? Are they worth getting if another can be had for a similar price?

This is a guess...

The 150 mm lenses for medium format are/were a staple of the wedding photography business. With so much of that business having gone to di*it*l, you may have been observing the result of a bunch being dumped on the market at or near the same time.

The AF lenses also have the disadvantage that they cannot be used on the earlier, non-AF bodies, so their prices might reflect that as well.

Matt