Making prints 'glow'

Patrick Robert James · Sep 13, 2017

The time to do this would have been when you took the photograph. A Zeiss Softar was how photographers used to get the glow without the unsharpness of other methods.

The only thing that is easy to do now is to make other things darker in order to make what you want appear lighter. A burn around the head for example. Glycin developers tend to bump the more developed areas, which in film would be the highlights. In a print though they tend to just make the print appear "richer" due to the same effect, although the richer part is in the midtones and shadows.

Good luck.

removed account4 · Sep 14, 2017

forgot to mention split filter printing if youare able to
les mclean has an article on his website that is fantastic
http://www.lesmcleanphotography.com/articles.php?page=full&article=21
in layman's terms you split the printing time between a harsh 5+ contrast filter and a "00" filter
good luck !
john

Bob Carnie · Sep 14, 2017

Vaughn said:
I tried this and it did not work at all. After two or three tries, it hit me -- no, it does not work for contact printing. I felt pretty silly.

made my day..

BMbikerider · Sep 14, 2017

If you can get hold of a film that has no anti halation layer then that is the answer. The sadly missed Kokak high speed IR film was such a type and the glow was one of the characteristics. I think one of the Rollie films, also IR sensitive also can produce the same effect.

Nodda Duma · Sep 14, 2017

Lachlan Young said:
Is it really residual aberration or just plain dirty glass? Given that both those lenses are from manufacturers regarded as either extremely good or world class (Angenieux) I'd be more inclined to wonder how they'd behave after a thorough & meticulous clean, not least because oil/ dirt that has leaked on to the elements in small quantities would probably give similar results to what you describe. What aperture are you using them at anyway?

From an optical design perspective, sounds like a near-focus ghost image due to double-bounce path in the optical design. Ghosting like this isn't considered an aberration. It is important, though, because it affects the design's ability to meet contrast or veiling glare requirements.

And .. I get that glow off highlights with my homemade dry plates due to lack of an anti-halation layer. See my wrecked car picture in the media section.

darkroommike · Nov 14, 2017

I have used a piece of black net under the less for 10-25% of the exposure, the Soft Focus effect is a sort of glow.

Apropos of nothing, Kodak used to have a nuclear reactor in the basement.

Mainecoonmaniac · Nov 14, 2017

You can try doing it in the camera. The Haselblad Softar filter might do the trick.

https://cookingfilm.wordpress.com/2...-zeiss-120mm-makro-planar-trix-400-microphen/

bluechromis · Mar 18, 2018

Adding to comment by BMbikerider about anti-halation layer of an emulsion and appearance of glow, the Fomapan films will sometimes produce a glow or aura in bright highlight areas. Some have speculated this is because the Foma anti-halation layer is less effective than those of other manufactures. The attachment is a scan of Fomapan 400, EV 320, 35 mm. The highlight area on man's headscarf is where the aura is more noticeable.

I have often wondered what would happen if one washed off the anti-halation layer of a film,, such as Rollei IR 400. One could then dry it out and, in case of roll film, re-spool it and shot it The drying and re-spooling, of course, would have to occur in the dark. I just got my first large format camera and this experiment might be easier with sheet film so will have to try it.

MattKing · Mar 18, 2018

bluechromis said:
I have often wondered what would happen if one washed off the anti-halation layer of a film

It might be hard to wash off just the anti-halation dies/layer, without washing out the other things that come out with a pre-wash, and are there for other purposes.

Gerald C Koch · Mar 18, 2018

Learning to use the Zone System will help you understand what to do.

warden · Mar 18, 2018

David Allen said:
These days the technique is mainly used at the taking stage by film cameramen:
http://coltondavie.com/tests/testing-net-diffusion/
Bests,
David.
www.dsallen.de

What an interesting article, thanks for sharing it! It's great to see professional experimentation, and getting what you want in the camera.

darkosaric · Mar 18, 2018

bluechromis said:
anti-halation layer

Cheapest film on the market Polypan F (now expired, but can be found nevertheless) does not have anti halation layer, and desired "glow" effect is easy to get:

Dead Link Removed

lantau · Mar 19, 2018

No need to remove anything with Fomapan 400 in 35mm.

Sample taken at EI400, developed in Fomadon LQN.

Shadows are pulled up quite strongly in post. I'll have to print that in the darkroom, one day. Still, while grainy it recoded more shadow detail than I thought on this high contrast scene. But some better antihalation would be nice.

Nicholas Lindan · May 11, 2018

A few things that I have found to help:

Add a bit of P. Bromide to the print developer, this will restrain highlight development.
A little dodging of the highlights. I often put an ND filter in the filter drawer to lengthen the print exposure to give enough time for dodging.
Use an old uncoated lens when taking the picture, at the least use a single coated lens.

Arthurwg · Jun 2, 2018

Not exactly what you had in mind, but you can always get an older Leica screw mount lens and shoot it wide open. For examples, see Robert Frank's "The Americans". Lots of "glow" on display there.

M Carter · Jun 5, 2018

BMbikerider said:
If you can get hold of a film that has no anti halation layer then that is the answer. The sadly missed Kokak high speed IR film was such a type and the glow was one of the characteristics. I think one of the Rollie films, also IR sensitive also can produce the same effect.

Old post, I know, but... Rollei's IR400 film doesn't have that halation "glow". But... you can wash it before exposing and man, it'll glow then. I just use a tank of distilled water with some photoflo. You have to hang it to dry in total darkness and re-spool it, pretty easy with 35 and a loading canister though. I've tested a portion of a roll, nothing extensive, but highlights really pop so development and exposure testing would be in order.

Making prints 'glow'

Patrick Robert James

removed account4

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Mainecoonmaniac

bluechromis

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Making prints 'glow'

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