Making a matte print glossy

[Marco B]

Hi all,

Recently made a couple of prints of a nice negative on a paper I hadn't used before: Kentmere Fineprint VC Finegrain, which is a semi-gloss to matte paper. Now I generally print on glossy paper, but I have once before printed on a semi-gloss / matte paper, for which I liked the results in combination with the negatives used.

However, although I very much liked the results of this last negative in their "wet-state", for this particular negative, I think it would work out better with a final gloss finish now I had a look at the dried prints.

Now of course I could reprint it, but besides the fact that I actually invested quite a bit of time in these prints (included tonings as well), I recently read a thread discussing the possibility of applying some forms of lacquer to fibre based prints...

Could I for example simply apply a gloss varnish designed for usage with classic oilpaints ("Talens" brand), to achieve such results? (I have this ready because I use it in oilpainting).

I have never before done this, but that other thread has made me curious to try it out once.

Any ideas (or warnings) regarding the suggestion of the oil painting varnish?, or any other options and suggestions?

Marco

 

[E76]

Have you tried ferrotyping the paper? Ordinarily I would not suggest trying this with anything other than a glossy paper, but it might work and help to add a little more gloss.

 

[Marco B]

Ok, I now managed to find two interesting threads regarding varnishing of prints using the Google search function on APUG:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Although it seems to be a bit of a disputed procedure, I think I will have a try to varnish one of the prints using my oil paint varnish, just for the fun of seeing what effect it has...

Marco

 

[Steve Smith]

In theory it's possible but in practice, it may be more trouble than it's worth.

At work, we make membrane switch touch panels. It is common practice for the front graphic layer of these to be made from polyester with a matt or velvet finish. In areas which need an optically clear finish, such as for a liquid crystal or LED display, it is customary to print a gloss finish over the texture. This works quite well but has the advantage of being an even coat applied by the screen printing process. A brush applied varnish will not be so even.


Steve.

 

[df cardwell]

Try Renaissance Wax.

 

[Neal]

Dear Marco,

Ferrotyping will work. Make sure the print is plenty wet when placing it on the ferrotyping surface. Having said that, I would reprint on glossy paper and ferrotype that. You never know when you will change your mind about how a print should look. Besides, even if you're right, you can celebrate by holding them side by side.

Neal Wydra

 

[Marco B]

OK, thanks for all the suggestions! I didn't know what ferrotyping was, so I had to look it up, and learned something new on the way, although I don't have room for that kind of extra equipment in my current home.

I have now sacrificed one of my prints for "science sake" ;-)... I have attempted to coat it with my oil painting varnish. Although in terms of gloss, it kind of OK, and one is able to achieve both deeper black and a gloss a bit similar to "glossy" fibre based paper, the big problem is to get an even coat.

On oil paintings, with their brush strokes, any uneveness in the varnish layer, is invisible. However, on a smoothly coated commercial printing paper, any uneveness in the varnish, is immediately and disturbingly obvious.

It probably requires diluting the varnish with turpentine, and using a very soft brush, to get an acceptably even coating.

Anyway, nice to give it a try once, but I will reprint on glossy paper when I have a chance.

Marco