Macro Lens Recommendation

I have a cannon ae-1 program and want to photograph details of objects, such as insects, flowers, shells etc. I want to get in as close as I can. Suggestions have been Cannon 100 mm, Cannon 50 mm, or a telephoto zoom 70-210 mm. Which would be best for my purpose?

Many thanks.

Probably the 100mm. If the 100 & 50 are both capable of 1:1 then the 100mm with give a longer working distance. A telephoto zoom is very unlikely to give anything near 1:1.

Attach a teleconverter to the 100mm and then attach that to some extension tubes. It's like walking around with a microscope objective.

T

Bronson Dugnutt said:

Probably the 100mm. If the 100 & 50 are both capable of 1:1 then the 100mm with give a longer working distance. A telephoto zoom is very unlikely to give anything near 1:1.

Attach a teleconverter to the 100mm and then attach that to some extension tubes. It's like walking around with a microscope objective.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bronson, I like the idea of teleconverter with some extension tubes. What should I be aware of using that type of set up (lower image quality, blurry, etc?)

Oh yeah, that sort of rig is a complete nightmare to use handheld, especially with film. I'd start with the lens on its own at first, without any tubes or modifiers.

With tubes:
- Set your lens focus to infinity; the focus adjustment ring will only provide very minor adjustments at magnifications greater than 1:1 and may actually degrade lens performance at other settings.
- Adjust your plane of focus (which will be almost nonexistent) by physically moving closer to or further from the subject... on the order of millimeters.
- Stop down as much as possible. Less than zero DoF or hitting diffraction limits are your only options because ...
- ... you'll lose several stops of light due to the tubes and be unable to achieve hand-holdable shutter speeds.

This is a digital image, but illustrates a similar configuration. Nikkor 105mm + 1.4x TC + 68mm of extension tubes.

For macro work, get a macro lens which isn't a zoom. Late model Canon FD (so-called FDn) 50 mm macro does 1:1 without extension tubes. I don't recall whether the 100 mm does same, but for the uses you are describing, 100 mm will probably be comfier because you don't have to position yourself so close to the subject, and aren't as likely to block the light. For whatever reason, I was able to get my 50 and 100 mm FDn macro lenses cheaply, yet the optical quality is great.

The Canon New FD 50mm f/3.5 dies not reach 1:1 by itself. It requires the FD25 extension tube to do that. The 100mm f/4 New FD requires the FD50 extension tube to reach 1:1. The 100 will, of course, give you more working distance from the subject. On the short end, the Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 Macro is a good choice. It goes to 1:1 without the need to add an extension tube, it is brighter to focus through and it is very sharp.
If your budget is limited, the Vivitar 100mm f/3.5 Macro can be good. Make sure it comes with the 1:1 adapter/close-up lens. If you have more money to spend, the Vivitar 100mm f/2.8 Macro is very nice. It's large and heavy but goes to 1:1 without and additional extension tube. This lens is also found as a Lester Dine, a Kiron 105mm f/2.8 and a Vivitar 105mm f/2.5. There is a little poetic license with the maximum aperture and the focal length.

For a prime lens, I'd include the Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 (Model 52B) in the list of possibilities. In addition to this and perhaps before buying the prime lens and for not too many pesos, a set of Auto extension tubes and a Vivitar 2X Macro Focusing Teleconverter. A decent tripod is another must have item. Either of these alternative items (2X or extension tubes) should be available for less than $20.

Get a used 100mm macro. These are very inexpensive, and they are all great -- don't worry about the brand. Just make sure it's a TRUE macro and focuses to 1:1 (1X). Some only focus to 1/2 life-size, and need an extension tube to get to 1:1. Others don't need an extension tube because it's built-in. Pick your poison.

Your other option, as mentioned, is to get a 2X converter and a set of extension tubes. You can get these used as well, but they won't be much cheaper than my first suggestion.

A bellows might be a little easier to work with than extension tubes. Also a sliding mount for the camera will let you fine tune your focus without changing the magnification.