Who am I to talk you out of being happy when you're happy? All in all the best idea for the average joe is to put 357's in there with a paper ring to fill out the diameter, and a little wad of aluminum foil on top of the sandwich before screwing on the cap, and re-rating your film speed for the higher voltage. But most importantly, keeping a vigilant check on your battery voltage with a DVM to avoid the slow falloff. Silvers are the closest to mercury on discharge curve, but still far from it. Past the 50% lifetime, you're playing with fire.
That is not recommendated merely web bullsh1t the galvanometer circuit is trimmed to be linear top and bottom of scale with a mercury cell of 1.3 volts with a cell of 1.5 volts it won't be linear.
You need two Shockety diodes or recalibration.
As well...
The voltage against life time of silver cells are dependent on current draw, duty cycle and cell type ie construction. The mercury cells we used in 75 for a high current would only give 1.3 volts with low current light duty, so the sag at 50% you quote for silver won't necessarily repeat at light duty low current... it is for a specific type and current draw, temperature etc.
Our application in 75 was different BTW AA batteries low duty high peaks switching mode voltage regulation, mercury cells we tested failed immediately...
The Schockey diode is ok with fresh batteries discard early cept if you are a pro with E6 and shoot every day - carry a back up meter and test voltage with resistor and multi meter.
Note the last (magnum) pro I asked did he not have a backup was not willing to answer... his lips moved...
Mercury cells were nearly as annoying during a shoot you pushed the rocker and got no reading when you illuminated the scale... was it too dark or had the cell failed or bad contact... you needed spare batteries and cotton handkerchief... or backup meter.