Lubricating enlarger parts (what to use)

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Hello all

What CAN be used for this purpose? The focussing rack(?) of my D5xl is very stiff and has gone all "squeekie-squeekie". It's so stiff that the knob somtimes turns without the rest of the assembly moving (slipping)

I don't want to use anything that will cause damage or something. Machine oil? Silicone spray? KY? Something else? I don't know. Please help...

(the upside of this problem is I've at least sorted out the allignment issue)

Ricus
 

R gould

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I use sewing machine oil, a little on a cloth just wiped over the surfaces and I have never had any damage,jiust don't plaster it on, as someone I now did some years ago, and for months it kept getting onto his negatives, little and often is the way,Richard
 

fotch

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Avoid WD40, 3in1 Oil. For metal shafts in a brass or bronze bearing, a natural clock oil might be good. Do not over oil as it will just run down and suck out oil our of the bearing.

Sliding parts, a light grease if metal, Teflon lube if plastic or nylon. To much of either will attract dust and then be more of a grinding paste rather than lube.

Clean first.

JMHO
 

MattKing

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See the Help Forum on Harry Taylor's Classic Enlargers site:

http://www.classic-enlargers.com/

When I asked a similar question about my D6, Harry indicated that he used one lubricant, but had no problem recommending Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly as well. I used Petroleum Jelly, and it seems to have worked fine.
 

glbeas

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For most sliding parts that you don't want dust sticking to I would use floor wax with carnauba wax in it. Trewax is the brand I prefer and it has the added bonus of keeping rust at bay.
 

AgX

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In general I avoid silicone oil/grease for any lubricating as long as it is not really necessary.
In case of accidentally touching greased surfaces mineral oil lubricant can be easily washed off ones fingers, and stains on surfaces can be wiped off rather easily, in contrast to silicone lubricant which is kind of contaminating.
 
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Worker 11811

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Lubriplate: http://www.lubriplate.com/webstore/detail.aspx?ID=9

Use only the smallest amount that will do the job and be sure to wipe off any excess or else it will collect dust and dirt and it will smear all over parts where you don't want it.

From what I gather, Lubriplate is the lubricant originally used by Beseler at the factory.
 

dehk

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Don't go too heavy on whatever lube you're using, mine wouldn't stay in focus for a little bit.
 

Mark Fisher

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For the racks, use a white lithium grease like Lubriplate. Any hardware store will have it. Just make sure you don't use anymore than needed. For any bronze bushings (anyplace where a shaft turns in a cylinder), I use Boeshield (available at most bike stores) because I use it on my bicycle already. Any light weight oil from a bike store would be fine, though. I'd avoid petroleum jelly simply because it really doesn't have the proper composition to last for any length of time. It isn't made for lubricating gears.
 

Mark Fisher

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And one other thing.....make sure you lube the rods that guide the focussing stage. That was the area that made the biggest difference on my D2.
 

Zathras

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And one other thing.....make sure you lube the rods that guide the focussing stage. That was the area that made the biggest difference on my D2.

I agree. Just remember not to get any lubricant into the groove at the back of the rods.
 

Wade D

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Lubriplate: http://www.lubriplate.com/webstore/detail.aspx?ID=9

Use only the smallest amount that will do the job and be sure to wipe off any excess or else it will collect dust and dirt and it will smear all over parts where you don't want it.

From what I gather, Lubriplate is the lubricant originally used by Beseler at the factory.

Lubriplate is mentioned in my Beseler manual. It's primary use is in the auto industry for assembling new or rebuilt engines. Any white lithium grease will do as well if used very sparingly.
 

Worker 11811

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If you go to Lubriplate's website (http://www.lubriplate.com) you will notice that they sell many different types of lubricants and greases.
Gear oil, hydraulic fluid, automotive grease, cutting fluid... all kinds of things.

The "Lubriplate Grease" that we are all used to seeing in the hardware stores is their product number "130-AA" in the 1 oz. tube.
From what it says in the MSDS and the product data sheets, Lubriplate grease is not lithium based. They say it is calcium based. They do sell lithium grease, however.

I have tons of Lubriplate grease on hand. It's what we lubricate some of the bearings inside movie projectors with.
Some of the bearings run in a constant oil bath but some of them need to be manually greased.
When a new projector ships from the factory, they usually come packaged with whatever grease the manufacturer recommends. So, in a 20-plex theater, you'll usually end up with 20 or more tubes of that stuff lying around. And, as you know, a little bit of that stuff goes a very long way. It would take years to use it all up.

So, it's a common thing for the technician to pick up a tube of the stuff from a theater that has a whole pile of them lying around and throw it in his toolbox. I think I've had my tube for 10 years. :wink: You don't need very much of it at all.

Just a dab will do ya'! :D
 

jp498

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I use spray-on lithium grease for lubricant on enlargers and LF cameras. Where spraying is inappropriate (quite often), I apply some with a q-tip.

Old grease/grime is removed with Hoppes #9 or Break-Free CLP or simple green.
 

Robert Hale

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Hi

D5xl Am I right in thinking that this “rack” is two bronze rods passing through plastic blocks, if so then I have found that no lubrication is required !!
The problem is tarnish/oxide on the bronze rods i.e. they are sticking in the sliding blocks. Do not clean them with polish as polish is abrasive and you will never get ALL of the abrasive out of the bronze and this will lead to excessive wear. Soak the rods in any mild acid for a couple of hours, vinegar – lemon juice ( we have lemon trees ) etc and they should come clean and bright, wash with hot water ( no soap as most soaps have some hand conditioners in them which will leave a dust gathering layer).

If one must use a lubricant then try “Labelle” 108 oil used in the best model locomotives and can be found in model supply shops.


Rob
 
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