Low/No grain film developer for Ilford Delta 100

[Ka]

While we're on the Which Developer mode, I thought I'd toss this one out there as well.

As I only have Rodinal in my cupboard right now, I am curious to hear what you think gives the best low grain result for Ilford Delta 100 film.

Thanks,

ka

 

[Leon]

perceptol - 1:1 - is superb - you cant even see the grain in the fine grain focuser. Use at 1:3 for sharper edges but use at 24 deg to shorten the time.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Perceptol or Microdol-X would be my guess as well. It gives excellent results with Delta 400.

 

[jovo]

i have used delta 100 almost exclusively for years and always develop in ID11 1:1. the grain is minimal with 6x7 negatives and very difficult to see at all with 8x10 enlargements of 4x5 negs. ID11 is apparently very similar to D76 and on some development charts, times are identical for both, though some consider grain a bit less with ID11. usually, with N negatives, i've found 9 minutes at 68 degrees quite satisfactory for 6x7, and 8.5 minutes good for 4x5 when tray developed in batches of 5 or 6 films (with somewhat more frequent agitation than roll film in a tank). sorry i can't offer any comparisons, but i've been quite happy with the results.

i should add that "difficult to see and minimal" refer to grain observed while focusing under the enlarger with a grain magnifier.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Ka, the basic grain size is manufactured into the film. You can reduce the grain size somewhat by using a silver solvent developer - at the expense of some loss of sharpness and acutance.

My developer preference for Delta 100 is Pyrocat-HD. This developer yields maximum sharpness/acutance with minimum grain and excellent tonality. I expose for the shadows and develop in Pyrocat-HD with semi-stand agitation.

With Delta 100 120 roll film I use Pyrocat-HD diluted 1 part A plus 1 part B plus 100 parts water and develop for 16 minutes, 30 seconds at 68 deg. F.

I gently agitate by inversion for the first 20 seconds, then let the tank stand. After 5 minutes of standing quietly, I agitate with 2 gentle inversions followed by a 5 minute stand, then 2 gentle inversions (at 10 minutes). I dump the tank at 16 1/2 minutes followed by a water rinse - no stop bath, followed by a non-hardening fix.

 

[Jim Chinn]

XTOL 1-1 or 1-2.
Pyrocat HD 1-1-100.

 

[Ka]

Thanks for all your inputs.

Tom, why isn't a Stop Bath required after the Pyrocat HD?

 

[mark]

Delta 100 and Ilfosol S are a great combination.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Ka, a stop bath is not recommended for Pyrocat-HD for two reasons.

1. The alkali used in Pyrocat-HD is Potassium or Sodium Carbonate. Carbonate reacts with Acetic acid stop baths and can form bubbles of carbon dioxide gas in the film emulsion - thus creating pinholes in the emulsion.

2. A stop bath is unecessary with Pyrocat-HD. The working solution of Pyrocat-HD is slow enough acting that it does not require a stop bath.

A water rinse is usually done before fixing to maximize the working life of the fixer.

 

[Ka]

Tom, that sounds fabulous!!!

So what type of fix do you prefer then? Will any Non-Hardening Fix do?

Thanks very much for your help.

 

[bmac]

I have been using Ilford Hypam without hardner with both rollo pyro and pyrocat HD without problems.

Brian

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Ka, as Brian says, Ilford Hypam, without hardener works fine.

I am currently using Photographer's Formulary TF4 alkaline, non-hardening fixer and that works fine also (but it has a fairly strong ammonia odor).

I use Ilford's recommended "minimum amount of water" washing procedure after fixing. The instructions are included with the Ilford fixer and are also on the Ilford web site.