Funny you should ask this question. I'm in the middle of a night photography class right now.
The first thing we did in class was put our meters away. I'm not aware of any meter that takes into account reciprocity (sp?) failure. If such a beast really exists, it's not likely to be accurate with every film. Plus, not many meters give accurate readings in really low light.
Our first shooting assignment was to take our favorite film out with some notes about starting points and bracket with 4 or 5 longer exposures. For example, a landscape lit by a full moon on our chart has a starting exposure of 2 minutes @ f/4 with ISO 100 film. So we'd shoot our favorite film for 2, 4, 8, 15, and 30 minutes, process and examine the results. Normally, I disagree with bracketing in favor of educated, deliberate exposures. However, I really think metering in certain night situations (but not all) is unrealistic.
Something I didn't expect to see were all of the DSLR's in the class. It was funny to see how many exposures the digital shooters made compared to the film shooters. I shot a 135-24 roll of FP4+ in my backyard, had a hell of a time printing the thinner frames (hold on while I make a 20 minute paper exposure through my grade 5 filter!), and learned a lot about how FP4+ sees in low light. The guys with the DSLR's made hundreds of exposures, but I'm not sure if they learned anything about their cameras' CCD characteristics. They all had opinions about how to fix things in Photoshop. Only the instructor commented when I showed my prints and disclosed information about paper grade, and N-1 developing, film contrast, and grain control.
Anyway, my uneducated advice (the class isn't over yet!) is to experient and take a lot of notes. Write down all of the exposure settings for each shot, light sources, and atmospheric conditions. If you're able to get a reading out of your meter, write it down too. Then you can see how far off it was when you process your negatives.
Best of luck!