Love/Hate Relationship with E-6

Ariston

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I just have to vent a little. I really hate developing E-6, but I am a cheap bastard, so I will not send it out. You would not think that one extra developer step would matter that much, but it really does. Especially with a 10 minute temperature-controlled blix already in the process.

I ought to stay away from it and just use color negative film, but every time I put a finished roll of E-6 on my light table it is GLORIOUS.

It's like a drug. I hate it, but I can't quit.
 

brbo

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Ariston said:
You would not think that one extra developer step would matter that much, but it really does.
Click to expand...
Standard E-6 has 3 extra steps (first dev, reversal, pre-bleach) and it doesn't really matter much.
 
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Ariston

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With the chemistry I use, B&W has two and C-41 has two... but E-6 has three steps, and the Blix step is 10 minutes by itself. Add temperature regulation to that and it's a pain. But I do it anyway, because I love the results.
 

BrianShaw

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Sometimes the smartest thing a cheap-bastard can do is recognize when it is wiser to spend a little money than save a little money. I know because I’m one too. I have always, and always will in the future, send my E-6 to an outside lab.

And if you get a thrill from roll film transparency... they 4x5 and larger... beyond breathtaking!
 

Finn lyle

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If temp control, especially on the Blix step, is a killer for you then you could always experiment with letting the Blix temp fall off. I don’t temper my Blix bath and haven’t noticed a drop in image quality. It works to completion so via my logic temp isn’t that important. Boy howdy you’ve hit the nail on the head about how much easier sending it in is though...
 

MattKing

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Alan Edward Klein

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Real drugs would cost you a lot more. Go ahead and have a lab do it for you. You deserve it.
 

DREW WILEY

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I gave up on 8x10 E6 chromes when Cibachrome got discontinued. The new Kodak E100 is now available in 8x10 and seems to be an excellent product. But I have plenty of old 8x10 chromes on file from which to choose from, and make a few exceptional contact internegs from for sake of RA4 printing. And gosh knows how many hundreds of Cibachromes I printed in the past. So I don't mind moving on to C41 color neg film like Ektar for newer work. It's certainly more affordable overall. But there's nothing quite like slapping a chrome atop a good lightbox and instantly knowing what you've got, and what needs to be done to print it best. 4X5 is the new 8X10 in terms of cost; it's really gone up that much. But that fact shouldn't prevent anyone truly interested from avoiding the bigger format. Just shoot more deliberately and methodically, which is exactly what big view cameras excel at. My attitude with large costly film is that, if it isn't really worthy of printing a particular scene or subject, don't waste a sheet of film. One can always simply view the composition of the ground glass for its potential worthiness without actually taking the shot. But one also has to do real-world shooting and printing at reasonable intervals to keep from getting rusty at it.
 

Sirius Glass

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Ariston said:
This forum is full of nothing but enablers!
Click to expand...

Belly up to the bar and stop cutting corners in photography, but cut back on your trips to $tarBucks.
 
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Ariston

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Sirius Glass said:
Belly up to the bar and stop cutting corners in photography, but cut back on your trips to $tarBucks.
Click to expand...
Starbucks?! Didn't you hear me say I'm a cheap bastard?

I've got some 4x5 Ektar in the fridge waiting for me to try, but no E-6 yet. I'm afraid to try - I might truly go bankrupt!
 

Alan Edward Klein

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Ariston said:
Starbucks?! Didn't you hear me say I'm a cheap bastard?

I've got some 4x5 Ektar in the fridge waiting for me to try, but no E-6 yet. I'm afraid to try - I might truly go bankrupt!
Click to expand...
I'm new to 4x5 and working on my first box of (20) Velvia 50's. Here's the first one I think is worthy of being posted. I have a bunch that I have to develop (outside) and a bunch I haven't shot yet.

Treat yourself.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/50283039793/in/dateposted/
 

thuggins

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The temperature of the blix is not that critical. I don't bother topping off the bath or even checking the temperature after the start of the second developer.

Make yourself one of these and time it takes won't matter.
 

Вormental_old

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@Alan Edward Klein for some reason this "old barn" series of yours always makes a huge impression on me. Color, B&W, doesn't matter... Something deep is going on here and I need to see a shrink about that.
 

DREW WILEY

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Isn't some ingredient in Starbucks used for film development too? What's wrong with slides coming out mocha colored?
 

JWMster

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Ah.... E6. This will be new for me to put through my in-house developer (me). Tanked up for it and handling all the extra water at temp for the rinses... but yet to drop into it. I've found it's been working for me to run a bunch of 35mm films when I'm new with something and get the kinks worked out before running 4X5. Meantime, I've been building up the fridge mostly with E100 but also Ektar 100 and some Fuji Chromes. We'll see which wins the day... and works for my stuff. But I'm still learning this 4X5 stuff!!! And yes, it ain't cheap. But what is these days?
 

NortheastPhotographic

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Processing E6 at home with a an old Jobo CPE2 is a breeze. The Tetenal kit is a little more expensive than the Arista, but slightly easier to mix. I would no longer consider doing any color film without machine assistance. Most of our E6 is done with a Super Sidekick, and soon it will be done in a Jobo ATL 2500. We will be able to do Super 8 - 8x10!

As someone who as processed and scanned the new E100 is 8x10 for a client, I can tell you it is the finest color film I've ever seen. Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.
 

JWMster

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Yep. Using a Jobo has been the difference between sticking with film and not in my case. The patience to adjust exposure to the process is another. Whether you use the ZONE system for B&W or simply adjust your times and chemistry until you get it right; whether you do the same with color C41 / E6... it just works to take the "me" and my irregular body mechanics out of the processing and use a tool.... kind of akin to Thor's replacing a rock with a hammer to drive nails. Arista was all Freestyle had in stock to start with, but chromes... yeah.... I think there's something to be said about Tetenal and "knowing" some measure of dependable, regular chemistry is behind the production. I imagine that if you've worked with Arista longer than I have, your sense of Arista's chemistry might be closer to what I associate with Tetenal... but I don't have that insight at the moment. So Tetenal is a preference, but I'm working with what's on hand when I need it.

At the moment, looking forward to DSLR scanning some chromes I shot this summer with Negative Supply's new lightbox.... which does indeed have the brightness and spectrum upgrade from my old light. And worth the wait.
 

etn

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+1 on that.
You can consider the problem from this perspective:
- what does an E6 lab processing cost? (it’s around $7-8 here)
- what is the cost of your chemicals,
- and how do you value your time? If you say, 1 hour of your time doing something you don’t enjoy is worth $20, and you need 1 hour to develop 1 roll, you’re not quids in. I’ll let you put your actual figures in the equation.

If you like it stick with E6. if everyone abandons it, the ecosystem will disappear and this will be a big loss for mankind!
 

md_photo

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E6 8X10. No projection needed, just hold up against a light source. Ektachrome developed with Arista E6, in the SP-810 dayliight tray.

8X10Ektachrome001ds by Maryland Photos, on Flickr

It is indeed time consuming, and all the shuffling of chemicals and keeping the temperature constant is cumbersome. Another issue is making sure the tank is well rinsed out between each development since the first developer can not handle any contamination.

But when it works its worth it.
 
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