Looks like I have a little fog here. Now What?

[rwboyer]

I got a box of Kodak Ektalure (500 sheets no less) for free and it appears to have just a bit of fog (sarcasm). I have another box that is perfect that appears to be from the same vintage. Funny how this paper thing goes.

Anyway here is the "little bit" of fog.

Of course I could just run it through the fixer and re-coat it for alt-process or something but was wondering if anybody had some other ideas? I'm new to this old materials that are partially toast kind of thing.

Maybe I could just remember where it still has a little contrast and print negatives that "work" with it and sell them as "art". This is the only negative that I tried and it kinda works but not for me.

RB

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Ektalure is worth working with. Add benzotriazole or Edwal Liquid Orthazite as a restrainer (you'll need to experiment to find the right amount) and reduce development time (usually less than 1 min., depending on developer--don't be afraid of a 20 or 30 sec. development time), and you'll find what grade it can print clean at. Also, be sure to test a sheet from the middle of the stack. The top few sheets might be worse than the rest.

For most old paper I wouldn't bother, but I have a supply of Haloid Industro that gets this treatment. It's about a grade less than Azo G2, but it works well for some negs that I've processed for albumen printing.

 

[rwboyer]

Ektalure is worth working with. Add benzotriazole or Edwal Liquid Orthazite as a restrainer (you'll need to experiment to find the right amount) and reduce development time (usually less than 1 min., depending on developer--don't be afraid of a 20 or 30 sec. development time), and you'll find what grade it can print clean at. Also, be sure to test a sheet from the middle of the stack. The top few sheets might be worse than the rest.

For most old paper I wouldn't bother, but I have a supply of Haloid Industro that gets this treatment. It's about a grade less than Azo G2, but it works well for some negs that I've processed for albumen printing.

You really think that is going to work with this degree of fog?

RB

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Worth a try for 500 sheets of Ektalure. The Haloid paper that I have is pretty fogged, but at 30 sec. development time in Michael Smith's amidol for enlarging (which is the Azo formula + extra restrainer), I can use it for some things.

 

[wclark5179]

Could you cut it to a different size and get rid of the fogged part? Or is it random all over the paper?

 

[rwboyer]

Could you cut it to a different size and get rid of the fogged part? Or is it random all over the paper?

Maybe the scan I included is a little misleading.

The black really really dense you see on some of the edges is probably from a handling error on the previous owners part (I really don't care about that too much - and the other "bag" of 250 sheets is unopened).

The entire image area is really fogged badly - seek the glowing part around the woman's face and head - that is where it is NOT fogged too badly - the rest of what you see if fog. See the area to the right - that is a window - it is a light source in reality it is much much much brighter than the woman's skin - that like funky looking area around the head is a happy accident there is no such light pattern on the negative.

RB

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

If the bag was opened in the light and the edges are fogged, that's going to be on every sheet. If there is random uneven fog, that tends to be something that happens on the top sheets and might not be as bad in the middle of the stack. If the other bag is unopened and you find a solution, you could use the lightstruck sheets for test prints and sheets from the unopened bag for final prints.

 

[rwboyer]

If the bag was opened in the light and the edges are fogged, that's going to be on every sheet. If there is random uneven fog, that tends to be something that happens on the top sheets and might not be as bad in the middle of the stack. If the other bag is unopened and you find a solution, you could use the lightstruck sheets for test prints and sheets from the unopened bag for final prints.

I have not even tested the unopened bag yet - the open bag I tested the top sheet and about 1/4 down from the top sheet. They were about the same.

RB

 

[DanielStone]

just out of curiosity RB, somewhat off-topic

do you shoot these good looking women as a portrait-type business? just a little more 'risque'?

or just for personal taste? just wondering


-Dan

 

[wclark5179]

Sorry, the first time I read your post the image didn't come up on my Mac.

Maybe it's cold because our winter wonderland!

Nice photo.

 

[rwboyer]

just out of curiosity RB, somewhat off-topic

do you shoot these good looking women as a portrait-type business? just a little more 'risque'?

or just for personal taste? just wondering


-Dan

Daniel,

A long and very twisted story here is a short version:

-shot people/portraits as a matter of personal interest since I was 12.
-shot people/portraits more as art in my late teems early 20's
-shot fashion for a while, mostly women
-personal work still gravitated towards women
-shot a bunch of other commercial stuff - let's suffice to say very women oriented
-semi retired - shot a lot of private glamour/boudoir
-shot some more fashion
-semi retired again
-host and give some workshops here and there - use women as models
-know lots of women to shoot
-so now I shoot them along with a bunch of other stuff like kids for my own personal work, aesthetic, fun, and art.

RB

 

[DanielStone]

cool.

thanks RB

 

[rwboyer]

I may try a little of the anti-fog restrainer stuff but given a whole lot of the fog is where zone VII and higher should print I am not real hopeful.

Anybody have any idea what a lith type developer would do with something like this. Anyone got a recipe?

RB

 

[archer]

Dear RB;
I just went through the same thing with an old 50 sheet box of Orwo #3 silk that was so fogged it looked useless and I was about to toss it when I decided to try the Defender 58 developer substitute. I mixed a batch and printed a recent portrait and the results were astounding! No fog and sparkling whites and deep blacks. You'll find a recent thread about it on this forum under the title Defender 58 formula. I think you should give it a try, it may just be what you need.
Denise Libby

 

[rwboyer]

Dear RB;
I just went through the same thing with an old 50 sheet box of Orwo #3 silk that was so fogged it looked useless and I was about to toss it when I decided to try the Defender 58 developer substitute. I mixed a batch and printed a recent portrait and the results were astounding! No fog and sparkling whites and deep blacks. You'll find a recent thread about it on this forum under the title Defender 58 formula. I think you should give it a try, it may just be what you need.
Denise Libby

Thanks Denise - It it worth a shot. Ektalure is fantastic paper and would sure like to have another 500 sheets on top of my dwindling stockpile.

RB

 

[rwboyer]

Dear RB;
I just went through the same thing with an old 50 sheet box of Orwo #3 silk that was so fogged it looked useless and I was about to toss it when I decided to try the Defender 58 developer substitute. I mixed a batch and printed a recent portrait and the results were astounding! No fog and sparkling whites and deep blacks. You'll find a recent thread about it on this forum under the title Defender 58 formula. I think you should give it a try, it may just be what you need.
Denise Libby

Can't seem to find it - any ideas on where to get this stuff or the recipe?

RB

 

[bobwysiwyg]

RW,

Found this if it helps any. Scroll down to third post for a recipe. Let all know if it works.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[rwboyer]

RW,

Found this if it helps any. Scroll down to third post for a recipe. Let all know if it works.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

I must be retarded but I am not seeing a formula for 58 and the other formulas don't seem to be anything to deal with fog?

RB

 

[Mike Wilde]

The formula, in the pasted link for Defender 55 is on the second page of the post.

The developer does not appear to be too different than many, until you get to the potassium bromide - 13g/l.

That is a lot of restrainer; most warm tone develpers never get close to half that amount. So the image will be much slower to develop in this, but fog will be supressed as well.

You will need to give more exposure than if you were using another developer that does not come so loaded with the restrainer agent.

 

[rwboyer]

The formula, in the pasted link for Defender 55 is on the second page of the post.

The developer does not appear to be too different than many, until you get to the potassium bromide - 13g/l.

That is a lot of restrainer; most warm tone develpers never get close to half that amount. So the image will be much slower to develop in this, but fog will be supressed as well.

You will need to give more exposure than if you were using another developer that does not come so loaded with the restrainer agent.

Thanks,

Any comments on how a lith developer might do with fog and with Ektalure?

RB

 

[archer]

Dear RB;
I altered the alternative formula for Defender 58 not 55. Here is the formula I use;
water---1litre
sodium sulfite---16gm
sodium carbonate---16gm
potassium bromide---0.6gm
hydroquinone---4gm
metol---0.2gm
and yes that is not a typo I increased the metol because I found it produced better blacks. Dilute 1+1 and be patient as the image with the Orwo doesn't begin to show for 1min 30 sec and development is 4min at 68deg. I hope this is helpful.
Denise Libby

 

[rwboyer]

Dear RB;
I altered the alternative formula for Defender 58 not 55. Here is the formula I use;
water---1litre
sodium sulfite---16gm
sodium carbonate---16gm
potassium bromide---0.6gm
hydroquinone---4gm
metol---0.2gm
and yes that is not a typo I increased the metol because I found it produced better blacks. Dilute 1+1 and be patient as the image with the Orwo doesn't begin to show for 1min 30 sec and development is 4min at 68deg. I hope this is helpful.
Denise Libby

Thanks,

I am going to give it a try along with the other fog restrainer recommendations - I am going to try to lith dev as well. My head tells me that it should lith very well considering even the highlights will be a denser exposure than the fog is. I just wish someone that had tried lith devs with Ektalure could let me know what to expect.

RB

 

[rwboyer]

One more appeal for any input on a lith developer with my fogged Ektalure.

Any takers - experimenters out there that can give me an idea of what to expect?

RB