Ektalure is worth working with. Add benzotriazole or Edwal Liquid Orthazite as a restrainer (you'll need to experiment to find the right amount) and reduce development time (usually less than 1 min., depending on developer--don't be afraid of a 20 or 30 sec. development time), and you'll find what grade it can print clean at. Also, be sure to test a sheet from the middle of the stack. The top few sheets might be worse than the rest.
For most old paper I wouldn't bother, but I have a supply of Haloid Industro that gets this treatment. It's about a grade less than Azo G2, but it works well for some negs that I've processed for albumen printing.
Could you cut it to a different size and get rid of the fogged part? Or is it random all over the paper?
If the bag was opened in the light and the edges are fogged, that's going to be on every sheet. If there is random uneven fog, that tends to be something that happens on the top sheets and might not be as bad in the middle of the stack. If the other bag is unopened and you find a solution, you could use the lightstruck sheets for test prints and sheets from the unopened bag for final prints.
just out of curiosity RB, somewhat off-topic
do you shoot these good looking women as a portrait-type business? just a little more 'risque'?
or just for personal taste? just wondering
-Dan
Dear RB;
I just went through the same thing with an old 50 sheet box of Orwo #3 silk that was so fogged it looked useless and I was about to toss it when I decided to try the Defender 58 developer substitute. I mixed a batch and printed a recent portrait and the results were astounding! No fog and sparkling whites and deep blacks. You'll find a recent thread about it on this forum under the title Defender 58 formula. I think you should give it a try, it may just be what you need.
Denise Libby
Dear RB;
I just went through the same thing with an old 50 sheet box of Orwo #3 silk that was so fogged it looked useless and I was about to toss it when I decided to try the Defender 58 developer substitute. I mixed a batch and printed a recent portrait and the results were astounding! No fog and sparkling whites and deep blacks. You'll find a recent thread about it on this forum under the title Defender 58 formula. I think you should give it a try, it may just be what you need.
Denise Libby
RW,
Found this if it helps any. Scroll down to third post for a recipe. Let all know if it works.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
The formula, in the pasted link for Defender 55 is on the second page of the post.
The developer does not appear to be too different than many, until you get to the potassium bromide - 13g/l.
That is a lot of restrainer; most warm tone develpers never get close to half that amount. So the image will be much slower to develop in this, but fog will be supressed as well.
You will need to give more exposure than if you were using another developer that does not come so loaded with the restrainer agent.
Dear RB;
I altered the alternative formula for Defender 58 not 55. Here is the formula I use;
water---1litre
sodium sulfite---16gm
sodium carbonate---16gm
potassium bromide---0.6gm
hydroquinone---4gm
metol---0.2gm
and yes that is not a typo I increased the metol because I found it produced better blacks. Dilute 1+1 and be patient as the image with the Orwo doesn't begin to show for 1min 30 sec and development is 4min at 68deg. I hope this is helpful.
Denise Libby
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