Looking for my first FD mount SLR

[AgX]

AT-1 (seemingly the power supply is different from the AE-1, though same chassis) : silver-oxide PX-28 battery

EF : all versions of 625 cell (most simple 625U alkaline)

 

[Ste_S]

Another vote for the FTb, matches your criteria and it’s where I’d go if I wanted a Canon FD mount SLR (I’m quite happy with a Canon P rangefinder).

Never really been tempted by any of the electronic FD mount cameras - id rather just buy an EOS

 

[EdSawyer]

I have an AE1 package I inherited just recently, with I think 4 or 5 lenses and some stuff. It is surplus to my needs, if any interest. I will try to check it out soon to make sure it's all in good order.

 

[Policar]

Thanks, everyone. Both FD and new FD mount lenses will work on all these cameras btw? I have a mix.

I have an AE1 package I inherited just recently, with I think 4 or 5 lenses and some stuff. It is surplus to my needs, if any interest. I will try to check it out soon to make sure it's all in good order.

Lmk, I might be interested. Thanks!

 

[AgX]

Thanks, everyone. Both FD and new FD mount lenses will work on all these cameras btw? I have a mix.

They will work both the same on any camera with FD mount.

(And with restrictions even on models with earlier mount.)

 

[Policar]

Thanks, I bought two lenses so far. One FD and one new FD it seems. Still don't have a camera, of course. :/

One seems to have the aperture stuck open and the other stuck at what looks like f4 or so? Without a camera body to attach it to, how do I manipulate the aperture so I can look through the one at around f4 or so and check for fungus/dust/etc.?

 

[AgX]

You have to unlock the three locks at the mount and then twist the mount. Or put on a mount-cap in which you cut a hole.

 

[Policar]

Thanks. Got it working with a lens adaprter.

Bought a lens from a camera store described as EX condition but now noticing what seems to be pretty bad haze possibly right behind the aperture, in the rear of the lens.

Invisible to the eye normally, but very bright with a flashlight. Oddly centered around three equidistant points at the edges of the lens.

Is this haze that can be cleaned or decementing? Should I return it?

 

[John Koehrer]

Pretty bad haze. The semicircles look almost like impact damage of some sort. It is possible to drop a lens
on a soft surface and still damage a lens element without damaging the barrel.

 

[Policar]

I don't think that's what it is. It's very odd, the circles seem to be evenly spaced at 120º from each other. It might be haze from the aperture? But it almost looks as if someone tried to clean it already.

What do you think it would cost to clean?

I'm returning it but curious what it is.

 

[AgX]

I had many lenes in my hand but never saw such circular structures. Looks as if some sort of corrosion spread from a point.

 

[cooltouch]

That hazy lens also looks to have some pretty severy cleaning marks -- scratches -- to me. I'd say it's toast.

Policar, about your earlier comments: you can often find an FTb for about $25 or maybe a bit more, and it is a much better camera than the T60. The EF has a bridge circuit, so it can use the modern 1.5v PX625 batteries. Problem with an EF is finding a working one. They're rather delicate cameras. The battery used by the AT-1 (and New F-1) is the small 6v that is used in a number of different film cameras, and used to be very common, but it isn't anymore. You have to either order it online or go to a specialty battery store to find one these days. Or you can stack four 1.5v button cells, which some folks do. Blockend wrote, "Older cameras like the FT and FTb require mercury cells, an electronic adapter, intervention to camera circuits, or a separate light meter." This is only partially true. I have been using 675 zinc-air hearing aid batteries in my old F-1s and FTbs (and other cameras too) for years and they work very well. They are a smaller diameter, which doesn't matter with the FTb and old F-1 because the battery compartment spring holds the battery in place. But a piece of wire or an o-ring will work to center the battery, if it is felt to be necessary. You can also buy metal adapter rings for them, which are useful for cameras that take the voltage off the side of the battery, like the old Nikon Fs. While it is true that the zinc-air batteries don't last very long -- six months on the outside -- they are dirt cheap compared to regular camera batteries. I buy a card of 48 of them at Costco for less than $10. So I just cut a section from the card with six or eight batteries on it and stick it in my camera bag. Even if it's been only a couple of months or so since the last time I've used a camera with a 675 battery, if I'm taking it out for a shoot, I'll usually load a fresh battery in it, just because they're so cheap.

 

[Policar]

Thanks, I'm returning the lens and bidding on a camera today.

If anyone has a 24mm f1.4 SSC or L btw I'm looking to buy one. Long shot I know.

 

[AgX]

I am into FD too, but I have not even come across this lens so far.