Looking for an inexpensive TLR as a light weight option to SLR MF

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Down Under

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I say, go for the Rolleicord - buy a Vb if you can afford it, download the instruction manual, learn to use it properly. You will never, ever look back. Every other TLR on the market (excepting the more expensive and more upmarket Rolleiflexes) will fade into the background by merest comparison.

A good Rolleiflex/cord won't be cheap, but maybe no more expensive than the silly prices online sellers want for their little two-lensed princesses. A reputable dealer who offers a warranty may be your best bet.

The 'cord Vb offers three distinct advantages. (1) The WLF can be detached, and better fresnel screens or the Rollei prism can be used. (2) the camera can be used to make double exposures by flicking a small lever on the left side of the lenses. (3) Two small image kits are available, one for 16 exposures (which I have and use all the time) and the other for 24 exposures (which I also have and almost never use, but it's fun if you want 'pretend' 35mm images). Both kits give you horizontals, so no having to tilt the camera sideways for pretty landscapes. The '16' is useful given the insane cost of 120 film in Australia where I live, and with a little creative cranking you caneasily get a 17th image on every roll. So!

Rolleicords also use Rollei bayonet 1 filters and accessories, which are readily available, of top quality, and still not too expensive to buy used.

The only (minor) disadvantages I can think of, is the odd shutter lever (not a button) which is below the taking lens and requires you to flick it sideways to trip the shutter. Still, no more strange to use than the equally odd focusing lever on the Autocords, and you will get used to working with (the 'cord) lever after two or three rolls of film.

The Xenar on the Rolleicord is a fine lens and every bit as good as the Tessar on the older Rolleiflexes or the T. I've never used the Triotar, which to me is an ancient lens anyway, and I believe a three element one.

I had a Yashica D in the 1960s and it was (just) okay for me, but I decided early on that life was too short to go without a Rollei. I now own four - a 3.5 E2, two black body Ts, and a Rolleicord Vb. I would never, ever use any other TLR, and in my time I've tried them all - Yashica, Ikoflex, Mamiyas. For me, the Rolleis are "it"...

Another thought. If all you need for your Bronica SQ-A is a WLF, then bite the bullet and buy one. I used this camera for professional work (in my case, architecture) in the 1990s. It handled well, ergonomically, and the lens sharpness was, in a word, incredible.
 
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DMJ

DMJ

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Just by using the Yashica-A for a few days I discovered that it is a must for me to have the focusing and advancing film knobs on the right side of the camera. The Yashica-A is perfect in that and other ways. I don't mind the lack of a light meter because I always carry an incident meter. The focusing screen is very bright but I need to get used to the inverted image. It needs an adapter in order to use a regular shutter release cable but I just 3d printed one!

20210616_155008 (1).jpg 20210616_154137.jpg
 
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Mamiya C series TLRs - C2, C22, C220, C3, C330, C330F, C330S. I don't know all the differences between each version, but the C2, C22, and C3 are not as full-featured as the 220 and 330 versions. They all feature interchangeable lenses.

Ive owned all of these cameras except the C22. The C220 is not as full featured as the C330. The only difference between my C2 and C220 is that the C220 can also
shoot 220 film.

The C3,C33,and C330 are bigger and heavier then their predecessors. They also have Film Advance Winding levers, and Parallax Correction meters in the view screen.
The C2 and C220 have winding knobs, and no Parallax meter making them a little more light weight and slightly smaller. With that being said, they are my favorite ones
to shoot with. I really don't like the extra weight of the C3-C33-C330. I also prefer the winding the knobs, as opposed to the the winding levers...

But all and all the entire line are solid built no frill cameras that have bright focusing screens, a smart film chamber design keeping the film straight (not bent), and the
ability to change lenses, even when your in the middle of a roll of film. Very good cameras!
 
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Just by using the Yashica-A for a few days I discovered that it is a must for me to have the focusing and advancing film knobs on the right side of the camera. The Yashica-A is perfect in that and other ways. I don't mind the lack of a light meter because I always carry an incident meter. The focusing screen is very bright but I need to get used to the inverted image. It needs an adapter in order to use a regular shutter release cable but I just 3d printed one!

Yours looks to be in a really good condition!

Ive restored 3 of these cameras. They are good basic TLR cameras. The 3 element Yashikor lens
was a good upgrade from the Yashimar. Ive had both and the Yashikor was an improvement. The only
thing I didn't like was the lack of slow shutter speeds, as I shoot allot at 1 and 1/2 sec speeds. So I also
got a Yashica-Mat that has the 4 element Yashinon lens and all the slow shutter speeds.

Also the cable release adapter you want is the one for Leica cameras. Its called the Leica Nipple. They
are on eBay.

Heres one of mine with the Yashimar lens.
Screen Shot 2021-06-17 at 1.47.17 PM.png
 

Cholentpot

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Just by using the Yashica-A for a few days I discovered that it is a must for me to have the focusing and advancing film knobs on the right side of the camera. The Yashica-A is perfect in that and other ways. I don't mind the lack of a light meter because I always carry an incident meter. The focusing screen is very bright but I need to get used to the inverted image. It needs an adapter in order to use a regular shutter release cable but I just 3d printed one!

View attachment 277591 View attachment 277592

I love my Yashica A. Only Issue I have with it is the cable release which, because it is called Leica goes for a fortune and sometimes I advance the film instead of focusing. I don't 3D print so I'll go without a release until I do.
 
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DMJ

DMJ

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Lubitel was always made in plastic with some metal...
oops,
sorry about that OP,
I always thought the ones from the 90s were plastic lenses
and the earlier ones were more substantial, I didn't mean to lead you astray
I offered $50 and the seller accepted.
The camera arrived today and everything seems to work fine. Lens, mechanism and cosmetics are impeccable and there was a half way exposed roll of Kodacolor II which I don't know what to do with it. Should I get a C41 kit and develop? I only have b&w chemistry. Anyway, here is a picture of the camera. :D
im glad you were able to find something that worked for you ! looks sweet!
John
 

Cholentpot

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Brilliant and thanks for the Ebay link.

oops,
sorry about that OP,
I always thought the ones from the 90s were plastic lenses
and the earlier ones were more substantial, I didn't mean to lead you astray

im glad you were able to find something that worked for you ! looks sweet!
John

My Lubitel 2 was a great companion starting me off in photography. It lasted 7 years and then the lens disassembled itself. I won't be buying another one but I got my moneys worth.
 
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