Looking for an decent entry into medium format. Thinking TLR

Sirius Glass

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I prefer the Sekonic L-308 with the reflectance meter, incident meter and flash meter.
 

Paul Howell

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Keh has a bargain grade Minolta Autocord for, 289 might less than getting a camera from Japan once you factor in shipping.
 

McDiesel

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Sirius Glass said:
I prefer the Sekonic L-308 with the reflectance meter, incident meter and flash meter.
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Why did you type this? The OP has a total budget of $250 (which is barely enough just for the camera), and the question was about a phone app, not light meters. Don't you see how weird and awkward would be to say this in a f2f conversation?

- What's your favorite rice dish?
- I prefer synthetic oils for my truck and I also have a boat
 

Helge

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An Autocord will likely need an external meter, and the Sekonic is a very good, if expensive given the budget, basic meter with flash metering too.
 

Sirius Glass

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Some people fire off without thinking about the items of the moment in the thread have as capabilities and limitations.

Beside who said that the light meter has to be new? I have actually seen used light meters for sale and have even bought some.
 
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markjwyatt

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Sirius Glass said:
Some people fire off without thinking about the items of the moment in the thread have as capabilities and limitations.

Beside who said that the light meter has to be new? I have actually seen used light meters for sale and have even bought some.
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I got a Gossen Luna Pro SBC for $38 last year (maybe $50 with shipping). Not small, but a great meter.
 

Sirius Glass

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markjwyatt said:
I got a Gossen Luna Pro SBC for $38 last year (maybe $50 with shipping). Not small, but a great meter.
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I loved that meter. I sold it when a spot meter was better suited for my needs.
 

Paul Howell

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I have several GE's, Weston's and others that I cannot recall off the top of head else, in box, last I checked a little of year ago they were all working and can be found on various sites for less than $20, most of mine came bundled with camera I bought. Finding a pretty good used light meter will cost much.
 

Bill Burk

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That S means Start so yes it works, the winding is measured and stops positively on each frame. I prefer this mechanism.


The nicer looking one has the “red window” advance. Less mechanical. But it looks fine too.

There’s several red window models - saw one for about a hundred shipped
 
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flavio81

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markjwyatt said:
It is not that bad, but easier with an 80mm or 55mm lens. I never had the dedicated grip, but I often used the camera with a flash mount that had a handle off to the left side, and that was better.
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I ask because i had the WLF and a side grip and even with this combination the 135mm lens was a bit awkward to use due to it sitting very far from the camera body. The 180mm was better balanced, go figure...
 

Sirius Glass

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flavio81 said:
I ask because i had the WLF and a side grip and even with this combination the 135mm lens was a bit awkward to use due to it sitting very far from the camera body. The 180mm was better balanced, go figure...
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Use a prism to see better and get rid of the left right reversal.
 

grat

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Sirius Glass said:
Some people fire off without thinking about the items of the moment in the thread have as capabilities and limitations.

Beside who said that the light meter has to be new? I have actually seen used light meters for sale and have even bought some.
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I picked up a Sekonic L-518 last year for $45-- a good deal, but it was missing a couple accessories.
 

Down Under

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markjwyatt said:
Seagulls is one I know of. As I mentioned, my dad bought Yashicamats for his photo students then switched to Seagulls. The Yashicamats were good, but the Seagulls were not as good in quality.
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Yes, Seagull it was. My brain temporarily wiped its hard disk. Over the years, I've known photographers who used them. Some Seagulls were good, most were so-so, one or two were disasters.

Not so the Lubitels. Never in all my time with cameras have I met anyone with a good one, let alone a usable model.

I've used the Yashicaflex, also the 635 (which can be used with 120 and 35mm film). Both were fine for most situations, tho' I liked my Yashica D much better - I'm not sure why, but I did.

Mamiya Cs, even the oldest ones, do have the advantage of being easily repairable. I like the multiple choice lens selection with these, but it should be noted that the Mamiya Sekor lenses usually cost more than the camera bodies.

There is so much choice in TLRs out there, limited only by one's preferences in a camera, and of course budget.
 
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grat

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The black-bodied "blue dot" Sekor lenses are "better", but that doesn't mean the chrome lenses are bad. But the "blue dots" sell for a substantially higher price, and there's some question as to whether the blue dot means anything.
 

Sirius Glass

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grat said:
The black-bodied "blue dot" Sekor lenses are "better", but that doesn't mean the chrome lenses are bad. But the "blue dots" sell for a substantially higher price, and there's some question as to whether the blue dot means anything.
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I could send you some blue paint if that will help.
 

flavio81

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grat said:
The black-bodied "blue dot" Sekor lenses are "better", but that doesn't mean the chrome lenses are bad. But the "blue dots" sell for a substantially higher price, and there's some question as to whether the blue dot means anything.
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The "blue dot" was just a way to difference a later model shutter from an earlier model of the (already later) black shutter. Nothing more. It had nothing to do with the optics of the lens.

Since the chrome nose lenses, which predate the "black" lenses, and of course predate the "blue-dot" lenses, are completely reliable, there's no reason at all to glorify the "blue-dot".

Sirius Glass said:
I could send you some blue paint if that will help.
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Exactly. If one wants peace of mind because the shutter cocking lever doesn't have a blue dot, that would help a lot.
 

eli griggs

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I agree that the Minolta Autocord is likely the superior TLR camera and, buy.

Second TLR choice I'd consider is the Sekio-Mamiya C330 with 75 mm or 105 mm, with a few basic color contrast for b&w films, plus ND and Polarizer.

That filter recommendation includes the Minolta Autocord as well.

Do no pay more for a "blue dot" lens, unless you just want one of the last production glass, that's all the blue dot is all about.

Look locally for a clean camera and lenses, and some older phone books might just lead you to a portrait/passport studio.

Do no waste money on a camera with a meter, your better off with good analog meters with cells still giving good, reliable service.

Cheers.
 

Timo Schön

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My first Medium Format camera was a Rolleicord IIb. It is about 80 years old now but I got an excellent copy CLAd and with a new ground glass installed for 150€ I believe. It might not have the sharpest lens due to its age and being uncoated but images still turn out amazing. If you want a vintage look for your photos it might be a good choice but if you want something more modern the mamiya c models seem to be great cameras! : )
 

Dali

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ozmoose said:
Not so the Lubitels. Never in all my time with cameras have I met anyone with a good one, let alone a usable model.
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Clearly, we don't share the same experience.
 

Cholentpot

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Dali said:
Clearly, we don't share the same experience.
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I had a Lubitel 2 for a while. It was a decent camera with a pretty good lens and then it died. Shutter went SPROING! and that's all she wrote.
 

Sirius Glass

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grat said:
I suppose I could put it on the chrome lens, just to really confuse people.

Although if I was that much of a gear whore, I'd own a Hasselblad.
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We all know that you really want a Hasselblad, but are not yet ready to make the leap.
 

grat

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Sirius Glass said:
We all know that you really want a Hasselblad, but are not yet ready to make the leap.
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If someone gave me one, I'd take it, and use it. If I found an exceptional deal on one, I would probably buy it. I can't justify the cost to buy one at going rates.
 

Sirius Glass

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grat said:
If someone gave me one, I'd take it, and use it. If I found an exceptional deal on one, I would probably buy it. I can't justify the cost to buy one at going rates.
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As time goes on the prices will continue to rise monotonically so the sooner you buy the better. Remember that you will just have to wait a little longer between buying more lenses than you usually do.
 
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