Looking for Advice on Mamiya RB / RZ Purchase?

A street portrait

A
A street portrait

  • 0
  • 0
  • 54
A street portrait

A
A street portrait

  • 1
  • 0
  • 54
img746.jpg

img746.jpg

  • 4
  • 0
  • 57
No Hall

No Hall

  • 1
  • 2
  • 62
Brentwood Kebab!

A
Brentwood Kebab!

  • 1
  • 1
  • 118

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,790
Messages
2,780,868
Members
99,704
Latest member
Harry f3
Recent bookmarks
0

Sirius Glass

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
50,359
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
I agree with Sirius partly. I no longer find KEH all that conservative in their ratings (they used to be), but it doesn't really matter because their return policy is outstanding. Like Donald, I haven't really seen a lot of RB/RZ stuff on KEH lately.

I had a good experience with a Japanese seller. I bought a kit. They sent one wrong item, but shipped out the right thing immediately once I contacted them.

As far as RB vs RZ, I am of the mechanical persuasion. The RB67 is just wonderful. If you could find one with a newer film back that doesn't need light seals, all the better. But that will probably cost you.

I have not ordered from Japan so I can say nothing positive nor negative about them. The word on the street appears to be that with care it is a good safe place to buy.
 

Sirius Glass

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
50,359
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
I've owned an RB67 Pro S, RB67 Pro SD, RZ67 Pro, and RZ67 Pro II. I prefer the mechanical RB but have nothing against the RZ that being said.

If you get an RB67 Pro that is the first model and it does not have interlocks to keep you from double exposing or firing the shutter with the dark slide in.

The RB67 Pro S has interlocks so that you cannot fire the body with the darkslide inserted and you cannot double expose unintentionally both the Pro and Pro S use foam seals in the back, in my experience it doesn't seem to matter if the seels between the body and back go bad but if the seals in the back fail you will get light leaks. I have never used the early odd shaped RB lenses just the later C and K/L lenses.

The RB67 Pro SD added the new K/L lenses I prefer the 90mm and 127mm in both the C and K/L configuration, the 50mm is also great. The Pro SD backs do not have foam seals so you don't have to worry about replacing those they also have a slot to store the dark slide on the back as opposed to the side of the camera body, I always used a Pro SD back on my Pro S. If I remember correctly the K/L lenses can be used on the earlier Pro and Pro S bodies but to use them on the Pro SD you need a trim ring that originally came with the lens. I believe it's only cosmetic and covers a gap between the rear of the lens and front of the body on the Pro SD.

If going RB I would suggest a Pro SD or a Pro S with a Pro SD back and the 90mm or 127mm for regular shooting, get a 50mm for the wide shots and if you want to do macro work with the 90mm or 127mm grab the #1 and #2 extension tubes. The 50mm will close focus to about 1.5" without the extension tubes and is therefore incompatible with them.

The RZ67 Pro is the first model RZ and also has no foam light seals in the back. The advantages of the Pro II are some improvements to the electronics, half step shutter speeds, and a fine focus knob. The RZ67 Pro IID has and integrated interface for communicating with digital backs.

If I were going with an RZ67 today I'd get a plain Pro with a 110mm F=2.8, and the 50mm. A few years ago when a Pro was $350 and the Pro II was $500 I'd say spend the extra on a Pro II for the fine focus and half stop shutter speeds. But now that Pro models are $1000 and Pro II's can go for $1800-$2000 I'd recommend the Pro over the Pro II unless you really need half stop shutter speeds and the fine focus knob.

Here's some examples of how much prices have increased on RB's and RZ's recently I don't know where they're going but hopefully someday they come back down. I'd really like to have another RB67 with the 90mm someday. It was my main camera for almost two years, I carried it everywhere and shot it handheld 95% of the time.

I bought my RB67 Pro S with a 120 Pro SD back and 90mm C lens in 2013 for $300, I've seen this kit going for over $600 lately.

I bought my RB67 Pro SD a year later with the same setup but a K/L 90mm for $450, I've seen these going for $800-$1000 recently.

I bought my RZ67 Pro with 120 back and 110/2.8 in 2016 for $300, this seems to be a $1000 kit nowadays with the 110/2.8 that was $150 4 years ago now going for $600-$700 alone.

and finally I got my RZ67 Pro II with a 120 back and 110/2.8 in 2019 for $850, these seem to go for $1800-$2000 nowadays.

The Pro IID? I have no idea the last one I saw was in 2015 ish and the body alone was $2100!

Very good summary. Thank you.
 

narsuitus

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
1,813
Location
USA
Format
Multi Format
If you were going to recommend three lenses for street photography, mostly nightlife, what would you consider?

My first choice for nightlife and street photography is a 35mm rangefinder with fast lenses or a 35mm SLR with fast lenses. For my Leica M6 I use 21mm f/1.4, 35mm f/1.4, and 90mm f/2. For my Nikon F2 I use 24 f/2, 35mm f/1.4, and 85mm f/1.4.

On the rare occasions when I need medium format image quality for nightlife and street photography of stationary subjects, I use a Fuji 6x7cm rangefinder with 90mm f/3.5 normal lens and a Fuji 6x9cm rangefinder with 65mm f/5.6 wide-angle lens because they are more portable than my RB.

If forced to shoot nightlife and street photography with my RB67, I would use the following lenses and a sturdy tripod:
50mm f/4.5
90mm f/3.8
180mm f/4.5
 

Donald Qualls

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
12,293
Location
North Carolina
Format
Multi Format
I would clarify the above -- some of the interlocks in the RB family require that all relevant parts be of the newer generation to work. I have a Pro S body, but the only back I have that activates the double exposure interlock is the 220 back (Pro S model) that I use for 35mm; the Pro model 6x7 and 6x4.5 back will let me double expose all day. All do activate the dark slide block, however, which is a very nice one (I don't much care for double exposure locks, but at least the one in the RB is easy to override if you want to make a double).

Another nice feature (I'm not sure if it applies to the RZ) is that I can use any 2x3 Graflok accessory. I wanted a square format option -- and RB67 backs in 6x6 are apparently a great rarity. A Graflex 22, on the other hand, is neither scarce nor overly expensive, and works fine (except it doesn't operate either the double exposure lock or the dark slide lock).
 

narsuitus

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
1,813
Location
USA
Format
Multi Format
The lack of need to replace light seals is one good reason to go with the Rz Pro II, IMHO.

The older film backs that use light seals instead of light traps, will leak light on RB67 or RZ67 bodies.

The original RB67 bodies used light seals that leak as they age. Instead of light seals, the newer bodies used light traps like the RZ. I bought an original RB body at a ridiculously low price with the knowledge that the seals would need to be replaced.
 

Kyle M.

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
558
Location
The Firelands
Format
Large Format
The lack of need to replace light seals is one good reason to go with the Rz Pro II, IMHO.

The original RZ Pro backs like the RB67 Pro SD backs do not have foam light seals, the seal is integral with the back in the way the door overlaps the insert when closed.
 

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
52,897
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format
it's a 7x7 body (due to the revolving 6x7 back)
Technically, it is an 8x7.5 body, because if you have the correct rotating adapter, the 6x8 back permits shooting that format - fully in portrait orientation, and with a little bit of vignetting in landscape orientation.
 

Donald Qualls

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
12,293
Location
North Carolina
Format
Multi Format
Technically, it is an 8x7.5 body, because if you have the correct rotating adapter, the 6x8 back permits shooting that format - fully in portrait orientation, and with a little bit of vignetting in landscape orientation.

Well, beyond that, you have to have the correct generation and version of several parts -- body, RB adapter, and film holder must all support the 6x8 in order to get the full frame, even in vertical orientation. My Pro S body won't do it, so there's no sense me spending money on the 6x8 back (and those are the motor drive, which usually have bad batteries).
 

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
52,897
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format
My Pro S body won't do it
It will - just get the right rotating adapter. And there are a couple of different backs, which include options to run off AA batteries.
The 6x8 back rabbit hole is interesting. But the real reason I posted about it was to help people understand why the RB67 is as big as it is, especially compared to something like a Bronica GS-1.
 

Donald Qualls

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
12,293
Location
North Carolina
Format
Multi Format
The 6x8 back rabbit hole is interesting. But the real reason I posted about it was to help people understand why the RB67 is as big as it is, especially compared to something like a Bronica GS-1.

Yeah. Kinda like a Bronica or Hasselblad with gigantism. Maybe I should name mine "Andre." :wink:
 

Stephen Prunier

Subscriber
Joined
Sep 13, 2008
Messages
372
Location
North Shore, MA,
Format
Multi Format
The original RZ Pro backs like the RB67 Pro SD backs do not have foam light seals, the seal is integral with the back in the way the door overlaps the insert when closed.

The original RZ6x7 Pro film back does have foam light seals. I've replaced a few before switching to the Pro II backs which don't have the foam seals.

I've owned both the RZ Pro and still own the RZ Pro II. If you decide to go with the RZ, then the Pro would be cheaper and it will accept all of the Pro II components like the Pro II film back. Prices are crazy right now.
I've also purchased most of my kit from Japan on eBay because almost all of the US sellers have been out of stock.
 

Deleted member 88956

The lack of need to replace light seals is one good reason to go with the Rz Pro II, IMHO.
Or the RB67Pro SD, actually just the backs will cover that, but still last model is best of all RBs
 

Kyle M.

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
558
Location
The Firelands
Format
Large Format
The original RZ6x7 Pro film back does have foam light seals. I've replaced a few before switching to the Pro II backs which don't have the foam seals.

I've owned both the RZ Pro and still own the RZ Pro II. If you decide to go with the RZ, then the Pro would be cheaper and it will accept all of the Pro II components like the Pro II film back. Prices are crazy right now.
I've also purchased most of my kit from Japan on eBay because almost all of the US sellers have been out of stock.

That’s odd. I owned at least 4 of those backs no foam or trace of foam. Same with the RB Pro SD backs. Maybe it was only early pro backs and the new backs came out before the Pro II?

If I remember right the RB67 Pro SD came out in 1990, the RZ67 Pro in 1980, but the RZ67 Pro II didn’t come about until after the RB67 Pro SD. So if they had the ability to make RB backs without seals why wouldn’t they upgrade the RZ backs as well?
 

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
52,897
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format
If I remember right the RB67 Pro SD came out in 1990, the RZ67 Pro in 1980, but the RZ67 Pro II didn’t come about until after the RB67 Pro SD. So if they had the ability to make RB backs without seals why wouldn’t they upgrade the RZ backs as well?
1980 backs (RB or RZ) relied on foam.
1990 and later backs did away with the need.
 

k.hendrik

Subscriber
Joined
May 23, 2008
Messages
684
Location
The Netherlands
Format
Multi Format
Looking to buy my first proper medium format body, I have some TLR's and other antique gizmos like a Bencini Comet. I wanted to purchase myself a Mamiya RB or RZ Body, I would prefer to pick up an RZ if the price is right, although I am equally as content using the fully mechanical counterpart. I had a scroll through the classified and am sorting out a subscription so I may post myself in the WTB section. Although I had wondered if anyone had any suggestions on where I might find some online. eBay can be quite daunting when buying from japan and there are no second-hand analogue stores where I live, only digital, so the likelihood of getting to view the item before the purchase is very low. I have checked locally and nationally for one but none have presented themselves just yet. I suppose what I would like to know are the following:

1: Does anyone have any places online they would recommend to shop around for an RB or RZ body, reputable websites and marketplaces?

2: Does anyone know if it is worth investing in the Pro II if purchasing the RZ, I have looked over the benefits and for portrait and nighttime street photography I don't think it justifies the price hike for the latest model.


Thanks in advance,

Best,

Lenny :smile:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...-all-items-in-mint-state.181254/#post-2375978
greetings
 

Ambrown31

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Seattle
Format
Large Format
I purchased the Pro II simply because it is "newer". I would recommend keeping an eye on Robertscamera. They have an ebay store and are located in the US. I have had good experiences with them in the past. The only downside is they tend to break apart kits and list in pieces. The last Mamiya body I got from them I had to buy as the body, grip, prism finder, and back all separately. You just have to watch their inventory and be the first one to grab the pieces.

I have also purchased from Japan and would do so again. Just look at the pictures very carefully. Do not pay any attention to their "rating" system. Look for keywords in the description that point out any flaws.
 

Neil Poulsen

Member
Joined
May 28, 2005
Messages
520
Format
4x5 Format
I bought a bunch of bodies, lenses that included an RZ67, and about three RB67 bodies, a bunch of lenses, at least one prism, some film backs, etc. (<$800 on Craigslist.) I was set to keep the RZ and sell the rest, and our local photographic repair center owner strongly advised me to go RB67 versus RZ67 for reliability reasons. So, I did.

Unfortunately, I never use it much, as I almost always photograph using a view camera. I finally sold it all last year.
 

Danner

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2021
Messages
182
Location
Fort Worth
Format
Medium Format
I recently took the 6x7 plunge and went with a Bronica GS-1 (out of Japan) with the 65mm and 100mm lenses. It's a very capable camera, although it does require a battery to operate. Lenses are sharp. Respecting ebay/Japan purchases, I found that the sellers are pretty honest on condition, just make sure you read the description carefully, because the 'issues' a product has are surrounded with the 'non-issues'. I'm happy I went this route.
 
OP
OP
LennyOne

LennyOne

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Ireland
Format
Analog
So firsts things first, I want to thank all of you very, very much for the incredible response this has seen. My second semester at uni started shortly after this thread was made and I've been focused on hitting the ground running, so self-restricting my time spent looking into photography. Now that I feel like I can safely say that I have hit the ground running, it's time to spend more time on this forum!

I really and truly appreciate the effort you all went to in order to help me learn here. Thank you all.
 
OP
OP
LennyOne

LennyOne

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Ireland
Format
Analog
The only problem I had buying an RB lens from Japan was language. It was nearly impossible to communicate with the seller, misunderstandings developed about shipping and he took it out on me by never leaving me feedback even though I paid promptly. Misunderstanding developed because he told me one thing but actually did another, and what he did was what he was supposed to do and what I wanted him to do. But he inadvertently said he he did something else. It was messy.

It wouldn't stop me from buying from Japan again, but I might communicate with the seller in advance next time to make sure we CAN communicate.

A wonderful piece of advice, thank you! I will most certainly be ensuring clear communications and luckily I have a close friend who is from Japan and can help me with this issue.

I've made a few purchases from Japanese sellers and have been very happy with them; one was a relatively expensive lens for a Pentax 67 (the 300mm IF/ED). Look at the pictures very closely as the Japanese sellers seem to document everything with good photos.

I went for the RB67 system because it is mechanical. I do not dislike electronics nor electronically controlled cameras, but I believe fully mechanical cameras have a better chance for repair and service long after the manufacturer has ceased support.

I suppose I like the idea of modern technology, although I can certainly see the benefits of having a mechanical system with regard to reliability and servicing concerns. Thank you very much for such a helpful response.

I suggest that you consider buying from KEH because of they are very conservative about their ratings and you have six months to return, replace or have repaired policy. I have been buying cameras and lenses from them for over a decade.

I was actually looking at KEH all January, however, I have yet to see an RB/RZ body go up, and at this point, I'm almost considering a pentax67. Thank you anyway for the guidance!

The only problem with KEH is that the older the system gets, the less likely they are to have any of them. The RB67 is coming on fifty years old now, for the original Pro model, and even the Pro SD ended production close to thirty years ago. That said, when I have bought items from them (M42 lenses, for instance) I've been very happy with my purchases.

I have noticed this, can only keep one's fingers crossed whilst I trawl through endless eBay japan listings.

Yes you are correct. Of course in that case he could just jump to Hasselblad since that is where he will end up anyway, but far be it from me to jump in and start him on that path this early. :angel:

If I ever get the chance to sell my kidney I will most certainly consider a Hasselblad, for now, I will be sticking to a lower budget range!

Ask me if you need translating for next time.

Will do, thank you :smile:

Then WHY every time anyone aksked about another brand you feel this SILLY need????? I have been an avid happy user of another brand (then yours) for years and don't feel cheated at all.

I understand your frustration here, although we must remember if we were all at a dinner party and not on the internet, that comment could be made and simply rebutted with my kidney joke (see above!) I doubt there was any bigotry or snobbery intended. I appreciate your concern for the size of the whole I'm about to put in my wallet none the less!

I agree with Sirius partly. I no longer find KEH all that conservative in their ratings (they used to be), but it doesn't really matter because their return policy is outstanding. Like Donald, I haven't really seen a lot of RB/RZ stuff on KEH lately.

I had a good experience with a Japanese seller. I bought a kit. They sent one wrong item, but shipped out the right thing immediately once I contacted them.

As far as RB vs RZ, I am of the mechanical persuasion. The RB67 is just wonderful. If you could find one with a newer film back that doesn't need light seals, all the better. But that will probably cost you.

Again I unfortunately just haven't seen one on there in the entirety of the time over been looking! I will however keep this piece of information in mind, thank you very much for your input!

I bought a bunch of bodies, lenses that included an RZ67, and about three RB67 bodies, a bunch of lenses, at least one prism, some film backs, etc. (<$800 on Craigslist.) I was set to keep the RZ and sell the rest, and our local photographic repair center owner strongly advised me to go RB67 versus RZ67 for reliability reasons. So, I did.

Unfortunately, I never use it much, as I almost always photograph using a view camera. I finally sold it all last year.

Maybe I'll end up picking up one of your old bodies, the world works in mysterious ways!

I recently took the 6x7 plunge and went with a Bronica GS-1 (out of Japan) with the 65mm and 100mm lenses. It's a very capable camera, although it does require a battery to operate. Lenses are sharp. Respecting ebay/Japan purchases, I found that the sellers are pretty honest on condition, just make sure you read the description carefully, because the 'issues' a product has are surrounded with the 'non-issues'. I'm happy I went this route.

Unfortunately, I have ruled out Bronica for now! Thank you very much for the advice otherwise, I tend to avoid eBay for reasons like these but everyone on here has been wonderful, including yourself concerning navigating me through those kinds of issues.
 
OP
OP
LennyOne

LennyOne

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Ireland
Format
Analog
I've owned an RB67 Pro S, RB67 Pro SD, RZ67 Pro, and RZ67 Pro II. I prefer the mechanical RB but have nothing against the RZ that being said.

If you get an RB67 Pro that is the first model and it does not have interlocks to keep you from double exposing or firing the shutter with the dark slide in.

The RB67 Pro S has interlocks so that you cannot fire the body with the darkslide inserted and you cannot double expose unintentionally both the Pro and Pro S use foam seals in the back, in my experience it doesn't seem to matter if the seels between the body and back go bad but if the seals in the back fail you will get light leaks. I have never used the early odd shaped RB lenses just the later C and K/L lenses.

The RB67 Pro SD added the new K/L lenses I prefer the 90mm and 127mm in both the C and K/L configuration, the 50mm is also great. The Pro SD backs do not have foam seals so you don't have to worry about replacing those they also have a slot to store the dark slide on the back as opposed to the side of the camera body, I always used a Pro SD back on my Pro S. If I remember correctly the K/L lenses can be used on the earlier Pro and Pro S bodies but to use them on the Pro SD you need a trim ring that originally came with the lens. I believe it's only cosmetic and covers a gap between the rear of the lens and front of the body on the Pro SD.

If going RB I would suggest a Pro SD or a Pro S with a Pro SD back and the 90mm or 127mm for regular shooting, get a 50mm for the wide shots and if you want to do macro work with the 90mm or 127mm grab the #1 and #2 extension tubes. The 50mm will close focus to about 1.5" without the extension tubes and is therefore incompatible with them.

The RZ67 Pro is the first model RZ and also has no foam light seals in the back. The advantages of the Pro II are some improvements to the electronics, half step shutter speeds, and a fine focus knob. The RZ67 Pro IID has and integrated interface for communicating with digital backs.

If I were going with an RZ67 today I'd get a plain Pro with a 110mm F=2.8, and the 50mm. A few years ago when a Pro was $350 and the Pro II was $500 I'd say spend the extra on a Pro II for the fine focus and half stop shutter speeds. But now that Pro models are $1000 and Pro II's can go for $1800-$2000 I'd recommend the Pro over the Pro II unless you really need half stop shutter speeds and the fine focus knob.

Here's some examples of how much prices have increased on RB's and RZ's recently I don't know where they're going but hopefully someday they come back down. I'd really like to have another RB67 with the 90mm someday. It was my main camera for almost two years, I carried it everywhere and shot it handheld 95% of the time.

I bought my RB67 Pro S with a 120 Pro SD back and 90mm C lens in 2013 for $300, I've seen this kit going for over $600 lately.

I bought my RB67 Pro SD a year later with the same setup but a K/L 90mm for $450, I've seen these going for $800-$1000 recently.

I bought my RZ67 Pro with 120 back and 110/2.8 in 2016 for $300, this seems to be a $1000 kit nowadays with the 110/2.8 that was $150 4 years ago now going for $600-$700 alone.

and finally I got my RZ67 Pro II with a 120 back and 110/2.8 in 2019 for $850, these seem to go for $1800-$2000 nowadays.

The Pro IID? I have no idea the last one I saw was in 2015 ish and the body alone was $2100!

What an incredibly detailed and helpful response! I really appreciate e all the information and help! I'm going to detail on the next page my intended use and current conclusions which I'm hoping all of you wonderful people can give your two cents on as I am terrible at decision making with so many options!

I study investments and similar topics such as alternative asset management and it is absolutely astounding how the prices can bottom out and vary like this, I realise this is an unrelated topic but I am also into old JDM cars and luckily picked up and RX7 FD 2000 model right before the prices started to rise. The comparison of the two markets is very interesting. At the rates which you've discussed above, I might just have to put some of my savings into old camera bodies!

I suppose with regard to my requirements. I want to take general day to day photos on my travels. I also adore taking photos of my friends when we are together, mostly at night time and I do a lot of nighttime photography on busy streets (when the pandemic climate wasn't so restrictive). I also take the odd photo architecture (huge fan of Georgian buildings) and vintage car photos. Although to narrow it down I would like to do street and portrait with it. Hence why I was starting to look at a Pentax 67.

I suppose what I would really like to know, assuming bulk is no issue what would be the best option for Social Portraiture, Home Portraiture, Nightime street photography and some dabbling into architectural and automotive. I want to be able to integrate well with a flash or light system I can carry around with me (Please feel free to inform me of the best options!) Most of my free time is in the evenings and in Ireland we have such short dark days for a huge percentage of the year. Although our summers are beautifully long and provide wonderous opportunities with regard to nighttime lighting.

Thank you so much for this reply, the kind of effort you put in here does not go unappreciated.
 
OP
OP
LennyOne

LennyOne

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
27
Location
Ireland
Format
Analog
I have not ordered from Japan so I can say nothing positive nor negative about them. The word on the street appears to be that with care it is a good safe place to buy.

Thank you so much for your input on this page also!

Very good summary. Thank you.

Agreed!

The older film backs that use light seals instead of light traps, will leak light on RB67 or RZ67 bodies.

The original RB67 bodies used light seals that leak as they age. Instead of light seals, the newer bodies used light traps like the RZ. I bought an original RB body at a ridiculously low price with the knowledge that the seals would need to be replaced.

I will be sure to consider this when I purchase, thanks for the input!

Technically, it is an 8x7.5 body, because if you have the correct rotating adapter, the 6x8 back permits shooting that format - fully in portrait orientation, and with a little bit of vignetting in landscape orientation.

I do love natural vignette! Thanks for the input!

I hate these camera threads. Now I want an RZ.

Sorry I did this to all of you! At least now I won't be the only one with a million eBay tabs open at once hahaha!

The original RZ6x7 Pro film back does have foam light seals. I've replaced a few before switching to the Pro II backs which don't have the foam seals.

I've owned both the RZ Pro and still own the RZ Pro II. If you decide to go with the RZ, then the Pro would be cheaper and it will accept all of the Pro II components like the Pro II film back. Prices are crazy right now.
I've also purchased most of my kit from Japan on eBay because almost all of the US sellers have been out of stock.

The market is always going to become irrational when interest peaks! Thanks for the input and I most certainly will consider this if I go the RZ route.


I appreciate you trying to help me out so much by posting that although I do not yet need to buy such a large kit, I will definitely keep an eye on it in case it is split into individual sales!

I purchased the Pro II simply because it is "newer". I would recommend keeping an eye on Robertscamera. They have an ebay store and are located in the US. I have had good experiences with them in the past. The only downside is they tend to break apart kits and list in pieces. The last Mamiya body I got from them I had to buy as the body, grip, prism finder, and back all separately. You just have to watch their inventory and be the first one to grab the pieces.

I have also purchased from Japan and would do so again. Just look at the pictures very carefully. Do not pay any attention to their "rating" system. Look for keywords in the description that point out any flaws.

Thanks for the suggestion but Ireland's customs is crazy and ordering from America would be a death sentence to my already unhealthy student wallet! I think I will be considering Japan if anything!
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom