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Looking for advice on a developer.

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Joooorsh

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Currently running low on ID-11 and I'm not inclined to get another powder based developer because its just a shitfight.

So I'm looking for a developer liquid developer. I have some lc-29 atm and was wondering how long it will keep once mixed to 1+29 solution and then stored on an air/light tight bottle?

Preference for reccomendations would be something I can mix and keep in an appropriate bottle and reuse over a period of a few weeks if necessary. Or which I can male a 1.5L batch of and siphon bits off from without turning.

I shoot a lot of different films atm nut am leaning towards ilford hp5 and rollei retro 400, of that helps.

Oh, and I need to be able to get it from Maco direct or vanbar (in Australia).

Thanks guys.

^____________________________^
 

baachitraka

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I am happy with Atomal 49 for HP5+ @ 1+1 for 10mins.
 

VaryaV

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Ilfotec DDX
 

keithwms

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I'd say hc 110 or tmax developer.

If you want to try a staining developer, wd2d+ keeps forever in two bottles. You just mix a bit from each with water when you're ready. Very easy, great results.

All of these produce differing curves and degrees of ability to compensate etc., you'll just have to try them.
 

John Wiegerink

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Many to pick from..........

I cut my teeth in Photography class 101 using Tri-X and HC-110 dil. B in 35mm and the results were just fine, not fantastic, but just fine. Now, the two "store bought" liquids that I use the most are Rodinal and Ilford DD-X. I have never really given the T-Max developers a good try and would think that if you worked with them for a while they would be great too. I have used WD2D+ and it's a fantastic developer, but it's not as easy to use. I'd say I use Rodinal most for much of my film, but not at 1:25 or 1:50. Usually at 1:100-200 and semi-stand or stand development. My pick here for easy, repeatable, great results would go to DD-X for sure. I like it with Ilford PanF+ and Fuji Acros, but not at the recommended 1:4. I use it at 1:8 or 9 for clean negative that really sparkle/white. DD-X ain't as cheap as Rodinal, but it's darn good if you want to go pre-mixed liquid. Just my own opinion of course. JohnW
 

Rick A

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I always have D-76 on hand, I don't get why so many people have problems mixing powders, mixing it ain't rocket science and it keeps quite well if stored properly. For liquid developers I use Rodinal(APH09) and Pyrocat-HD. Both have extensivly long shelf lives and are easy to use. They all have their special "look" and produce excellent negatives when used for the right reason.
 

Gerald C Koch

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If you have been using ID-11 then you will like HC-110 as it produces very similar results. The concentrate keeps for years. Most people dilute the concentrate directly so you will need a small graduate say 10 to 25 ml. I use a dilution of 1+49 and really like the results.
 

Henry Alive

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I have always worked with liquid developer. Years ago, I used Rodinal, but I changed to Tmax because I was looking a smaller grain. Later, I proved HC110 (1:47) following a friend recommendation. Since that time, I only develop with HC110 (1:47). I like the results that I get with Trix400, Tamx400 o Tmax100.
Additionally, it is very cheap as it last for ever. I recommend you to prove it.
Henry.
 

R gould

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If I were in your position, shooting different films, and wanting to have the developer on hand and ready to go, would stick with ID11/d76 as as developers in liquad form are virtualy all 1 shot use, LC29 at 1/29 is, the other dilutions can be re used, but they won't keep for months mixed, so you always need to mix fresh every film you develop, as for the concentrates keeping, Rodinal/ro9 1 shot will keep for ever, but once mixed must be used within an hour, and I mix to I film.so if you want to go dopwn the liquad concentrate route be prepared to mix before every developing session, and use as a one shot
Richard
 

ooze

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I think DDX is excellent. Used two bottles of it several months ago and the negs are beautiful. If it weren't for the steep price I'd gladly use it as my main developer.

On the other hand, I also can't see what's so difficult with dissolving powder.
 

presspass

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I haven't tried it, but I understand the Sprint film developer, which is liquid, gives results very similar to D-76/ID 11. I came across an old review of Sprint system chemicals in, I think, Camera and Darkroom. I have used Sprint's liquid paper developer and rapid fixer and am satisfied with both.
 

couldabin

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I'm sold on Pyrocat HD, also. Have been using the same bottle(s) for years.

I always have D-76 on hand, I don't get why so many people have problems mixing powders, mixing it ain't rocket science and it keeps quite well if stored properly. For liquid developers I use Rodinal(APH09) and Pyrocat-HD. Both have extensivly long shelf lives and are easy to use. They all have their special "look" and produce excellent negatives when used for the right reason.
 

removed account4

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I haven't tried it, but I understand the Sprint film developer, which is liquid, gives results very similar to D-76/ID 11. I came across an old review of Sprint system chemicals in, I think, Camera and Darkroom. I have used Sprint's liquid paper developer and rapid fixer and am satisfied with both.

it is a great developer ... !
 

Ian Grant

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If you have been using ID-11 then you will like HC-110 as it produces very similar results. The concentrate keeps for years. Most people dilute the concentrate directly so you will need a small graduate say 10 to 25 ml. I use a dilution of 1+49 and really like the results.

That wasn't what we found when we tested them a few years ago, we found HC-110 gave larger grain and a slight drop in film speed. That's what Kodak indicate as well in there data (and still do).

Ian
 
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Joooorsh

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Guys I'm probably going to end up going with the HC-110 and I'm going to get some Rodinal to try as well.

I just need to get some more bottles now. The prices here are ludicrous.

MILK
 

Andrew Moxom

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while a valid question, it will get you no closer to an answer as there will so many choices to figure out.... Everyone has their own pet brew, but it could end up causing you too much heartburn. If you know ID-11, why change?
 

Gerald C Koch

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That wasn't what we found when we tested them a few years ago, we found HC-110 gave larger grain and a slight drop in film speed. That's what Kodak indicate as well in there data (and still do).

Ian

Until recently, Kodak literature said little about the differences between general-purpose film developers. However, the 2001 Kodak Professional Photographic Catalog contains a comparison chart.

Compared to D-76, this chart indicates that HC-110 (dilution B) produces:

o Slightly less shadow detail or true film speed;
o Slightly finer grain;
o Slightly lower acutance.

Apparently, HC-110 has somewhat more solvent action than D-76, but less than Xtol.

Opinions differ about the effect of HC-110 on grain. Some photographers report coarser grain than with D-76; others report finer grain. This is probably a function of dilution and agitation.

Opinions also differ regarding acutance, since many photographers report that HC-110 produces high acutance, especially at high dilutions. This is a function of solvent action, which is reduced by diluting the developer.


The above quote is from the Covington HC-110 website. The unitalicized portion is directly from Kodak literature.

It appears that one's opinion seems to depend on the dilution used. I have always been very happy with the results that I get with HC-110.

Jerry
 

abate cruento

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So I'm looking for a developer liquid developer. I have some lc-29 atm and was wondering how long it will keep once mixed to 1+29 solution and then stored on an air/light tight bottle?

i still have a bit of seasoned lc 29 concentrate (opened in 2009) and it's still active, also stored in a half filled bottle... i just use it like rodinal, one shot.

Preference for reccomendations would be something I can mix and keep in an appropriate bottle and reuse over a period of a few weeks if necessary. Or which I can male a 1.5L batch of and siphon bits off from without turning.

i also vote for HC-110 or Aculux
 
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