Looking for a New Film, Developer, Paper Combination

[Tom Duffy]

I've just got my darkroom going again after a 8 year gap and I'm looking to change my old FDP choices. When last I printed my film was Tri-X 320 developed in pyrocat in a JOBO rotary processor and printed on Berger warm tone paper. I was really pleased with the results, but obviously, the landscape has changed.
For a warm tone paper, the Ilford seems to be a good, if not only, choice, developed in Ilford warm tone developer.
I'll use Tri-X 320 film for a while since I have a lot stored, but I find it difficult to control the highlights without pyro. HC110 or the Ilford equivalent seems good to start with since I can alter the contrast of the negative with simple dilution changes while using it as a one shot.
I initially plan shoot Delta 400 in 35mm and Tri-X 320 in large format.
Going forward, I'd like to standardize on a new film using a one shot film and one shot paper developer. (Cleaning the pyro residue from my disassembled JOBO was a scary eye opener.) Film grain isn't too much of an issue. If I need fine grain, I'll use a larger format.
My enlargers all have color heads and I prefer warm tone prints.
Any input you guys can provide is appreciated.

 

[Tom Duffy]

Thinking about my post, I guess I should state the question as: Given that my paper choice is Ilford warm tone, are there particular film/developer combinations that work well with this paper?

 

[MattKing]

I have been getting some really good results recently from either of the T-Max films developed in replenished X-Tol.
I'm using different paper though.

 

[Neal]

I use Jobo tanks in a workalike (I built my own with industrial parts when I thought Jobo would be no more) with Xtol 1+1 (one shot) for film and EcoPro for prints. Never an issue.

Neal Wydra

 

[Sirius Glass]

Take a look at XTOL and replenished XTOL. I use replenished XTOL is does all things XTOL does with more sharpness, shadow detail, and tonality.

 

[tedr1]

I made some simple experiments using Ilford Multigrade and Ilford Bromophen developers with Ilford MG warm tone fibre base paper. The Ilford literature lead me to believe there might be a combination of economy and longer keeping time in the tray by using Bromophen. My reference was the MG dev used at 1+9 for 2 minutes used only for a single session then discarded. I was pleased with the good warm tone and consistent results. By comparison when I used the Bromophen the initial image tone with the same paper was similar however the developer did not keep, by the second day the warmtone had disappeared and contrast had fallen. I stuck with the Ilford MG dev. I purchased some Ilford warmtone dev intending to test it but did not do so, though I notice that according to Ilford data the capacity for warmtone dev is significantly less than regular MG dev.

 

[Tom Duffy]

Take a look at XTOL and replenished XTOL. I use replenished XTOL is does all things XTOL does with more sharpness, shadow detail, and tonality.

View attachment 210128

Thanks for the chart. HC110 seems to have a loss of effective film speed which I wasn’t aware of. My experience with XTOL never involved replenishment. I used it 1:2 to give a longer development time. That was also supposed to give greater sharpness than the stock dilution. I seem to recall I thought the stock times were pretty fast. I also had several instances when XTOL worked fine one day and died without warning the next. As a matter of convenience, I also disliked that it was packaged in 5 liter packets and I had all my one gallon bottles.
Do you presoak your film? If so does it affect development times? What film do you use with XTOL?
XTOL seems worth consideration to me if I use it as a one shot. T-max looks good for large format negs where grain is not such an issue.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I also had several instances when XTOL worked fine one day and died without warning the next. As a matter of convenience, I also disliked that it was packaged in 5 liter packets and I had all my one gallon bottles.

I store in one liter bottles. The bottle must have the air squeezed out and sealed tightly.

Do you presoak your film? If so does it affect development times? What film do you use with XTOL?

I use Kodak Tri-X, Kodak Plus-X, Ilford FP4+, and Ilford HP5+ all in the Jobo processor. Both Kodak and Jobo clearly state NOT to pre-soak Tri-X when using the Jobo processor, OTHERWISE pre-soak all films.

 

[removed account4]

hey tom!

use ansco 130 1:6 72º 6min as a starting point for any film you have
1:2 m 1:1 for your paper .. doesn't matter what kind..
or seeing you're from the states get some sprint developers/ fixer &c ...
1'll suggest caffenol too .. super ez to make film comes out great
go to the caffenol-cookbook.com for the low-down recipes &c
trader joes has inexpensive vit c powder, super washing soda ( A&H )
and cheep instant works perfectly .. ive been using it for 10-12 years almost exclusively
i don't measure or having a mixing regimen .. teaspoon method works well
8 oz. water
4 slightly rounded tsp. instant coffee cheeper the better..
2 tsp. washing soda
1000 mg Vitamin C (1/4 tsp powder)
good luck !
john

 

[Svenedin]

I’m very fond of the TMax films but for the classic look it’s hard to beat FP4. I use Xtol 1+1 one shot or sometimes Ilfotech DD-X (which is rather expensive). I don’t use warm tone very often and when I do it’s with ordinary Ilford MG dev (I found the warm tone dev very dirty working and it doesn’t keep well even in a slot processor). My favourite print dev is Tetenal Eukobrom but that’s a bit on the cool side. It keeps well even as a working solution.