Looking For ...... [a midrange manual focus SLR]

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picturetaker

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I have a number of rangefinders, a Fed 2 on its way and a couple of more modern Canon EOS models, and a digital. I think what I am lacking is a mid range manual focus SLR.

Nikon or Canon or ??. Needs to have good glass available and have a good metering system. Any suggestions? $$ are an issue but for the right camera, there is no issue.
 

Roger Hicks

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I have a number of rangefinders, a Fed 2 on its way and a couple of more modern Canon EOS models, and a digital. I think what I am lacking is a mid range manual focus SLR.

Nikon or Canon or ??. Needs to have good glass available and have a good metering system. Any suggestions? $$ are an issue but for the right camera, there is no issue.


Dear Larry,

Why do you feel you need one? And why mid-range? Why not buy the best (ever), a Nikon F?

Cheers,

R.
 

copake_ham

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I have a number of rangefinders, a Fed 2 on its way and a couple of more modern Canon EOS models, and a digital. I think what I am lacking is a mid range manual focus SLR.

Nikon or Canon or ??. Needs to have good glass available and have a good metering system. Any suggestions? $$ are an issue but for the right camera, there is no issue.

IMHO, you cannot beat a F3HP for a classic SLR manual focus camera.
 
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Minolta's hearty line go a long way for a buck (X- and SR- series). And many reliable sources. Mine have survived five foot falls and many cold days being lugged through snowy and/or salty (beach) conditions. They do respond well to TLC and loving, knowledgable owners.
 

waynecrider

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I read your profile and your a year and a half older then I am. Since I know you are most likely wearing reading glasses if not wearing glasses all the time by your picture, you might want to fore go the purchase and just use your Canon. A manual focus camera can be any camera with the capability even if it is AF as well. Additionally it sounds like you getting GAS. You might want to take a pill for that.
 
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picturetaker

picturetaker

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Thanks for the replies. I have looked a little at the Nikon F and its various siblings - look good they do. Haven't really looked at the Minoltas but will now.

Wayne, I need glasses for both reading and distance but just borderline. The most certainly help but are still a bother. I like my S2 for the diopter adjustment but it is way to slow.

My rangefinders on the other hand - when the viewfinder is bright and I can see the rangefinder square are actually easier for me focus with. But my A2E is sweetest of all.

I guess I am looking at a manual focus SLR as a bridge in the timeline of my collection. I have 50's, 60's, 80's and 90's. Need a 70's and a 2000's. Then I start going backwards below the 50's.
 

Paul Howell

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As you are a Cannon user, a New F, motor drive and a few FD lens with an adaptor so you can use your older FD Mf lens with your auto focus Cannons.
 

naturephoto1

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Hi Larry,

When I used the Canon FD series I liked the Canon EF camera very much. When I had the system I also had the F1N, new F1, and the A1. Previously, I had the FTbn. But, if you do not need a motor or winder for the camera and the interchangeable heads, it is a very well designed and thought out and balanced camera. It is based largely on the F1N without the options for the interchangeable heads and motors/winder.

Rich
 

lwfkc

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I'll second the suggestion for an FM2 (or FE2). Great cameras at great values and compact.

Larry
 

Doug Hook

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I started with a Nikon FM in 1978 and still have it. Since then I have aquired a FE and F90X.

My heart tells me the FM is, for me, the best all round camera and if I'm totally honest, the one I have taken the best shots with. Apart from the practical considerations (the simplicity, the blend between weight and strength, reliability etc.), the manual nature slows me down enough to take a more thoughtful approach to composition, focus and exposure; yet it is easy enough to handle quickly if the need arises.

Just another thought - and I'm sure this will apply to other cameras - is about batteries. The FM can of course work without batteries but in any event they seem to power the meter for ages. Instead of the two button batteries, I once got a single double sized battery that lasted for several years over a period of frequent use.

Hope that helps?
 

Paul Howell

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In addition to the Cannon F1, maybe a T70 or T90? Both were the bridge for Cannon from the FD line to the EROS.
 

Uncle Bill

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I would look into the Nikon F2 or the Olympus OM-1 or Asahi Pentax Spotmatic F or the MX.

Bill
 
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picturetaker

picturetaker

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I think I am getting a case of GAS cramps - I want more than just one of these options and will probably end up getting at least 2 or 3 of the suggestions just because there are some winners here.

Probables
Yashica FR1, FX - goes back to the days of my first slr
Canon FE(?) - have always enjoyed using a Canon
OM 1/2 - have held one and like the fit
Nikon F or variation - good rep and I have never used a Nikon

That should set me back more than my allowance for this month :D
 

naturephoto1

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I think I am getting a case of GAS cramps - I want more than just one of these options and will probably end up getting at least 2 or 3 of the suggestions just because there are some winners here.

Probables
Yashica FR1, FX - goes back to the days of my first slr
Canon FE(?) - have always enjoyed using a Canon
OM 1/2 - have held one and like the fit
Nikon F or variation - good rep and I have never used a Nikon

That should set me back more than my allowance for this month :D

Hi Larry,

The Canon EF as I mentioned was an auto version of the F1N without the ability of changing heads or accepting a motor or winder. This is a rugged body that was also the predecessor to the AE1. The camera is larger than the AE1, much more rugged and built very strong. If you can find a working one in very good or better condition I think that you will be very happy. It has very long shutter speed capability in auto (as I recall close to that of the Canon Booster for the F1). At this point due to age I would expect that the foam gasket (s) should be replaced, but that should neither be difficult or expensive. Good luck. I only retired the Canon system in 1984 to upgrade to the Leica R4SP (and later bodies) system which I have been using since then.

Rich
 

johnnywalker

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FM3A. Everything you asked for, and relatively new.
 

leeturner

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I have to second an OM1n/OM2n. I picked up a couple for almost next to nothing, spent a little time replacing the seals and added 28mm and 35mm lenses. I developed the first roll last week and printed a couple of frames on Sunday. Razor sharp and with lovely contrast these are some of my best negs from 35mm and I've used Nikon and Minolta in the past. The OM2n is a pleasure to use with very accurate aperture priority metering plus superb flash metering. The ergonomics suit me even though I have fairly large paws and it's small enough to slip into a coat pocket. The OM2n takes regular batteries whereas the OM1/OM1n uses mercury batteries. However ten minutes making a rubber gasket and the OM1's now take over the counter zinc air hearing aid batteries.The other differences are that the OM1/n has mirror lockup,fully mechanical and has manual metering only.
 
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mawz

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Jul 22, 2005
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Toronto, ON
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I'd go for a Nikon F3 or a FA/FE2/FM3a. TTL flash, rugged, good metering, excellent supply of glass, can use the glass on your EOS kit with an inexpensive adaptor, Nikon still repairs the F3 and FM3a (As well as the FM2n).

Go FM2n or FM3a if you want battery independence.

I'm also quite fond of my Pentax's, but for MF gear, the Nikons are king IMHO.
 

Bromo33333

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Ipswich, NY
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I'd go for a Nikon F3 or a FA/FE2/FM3a. TTL flash, rugged, good metering, excellent supply of glass, can use the glass on your EOS kit with an inexpensive adaptor, Nikon still repairs the F3 and FM3a (As well as the FM2n).

Go FM2n or FM3a if you want battery independence.

I'm also quite fond of my Pentax's, but for MF gear, the Nikons are king IMHO.

The FM3A's are going for big bucks used lately. I'd strongly consider a FM2N if you can't get a deal on the FM3A.

But, if your eyes aren't what they used to be, an AF may be a good choice as well - so a F5, 6 or F100 may be a decent choice.
 

Ulrich Drolshagen

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You may try this link for further information:

http://www.phototechmag.com/previous-articles/jul-dubler99.htm

It's on OM3/4 but with respect to lenses it applies to OM1/2 too. Keep in mind that OM is a dead system now. Spare electronic circuits are not available any longer for the more sophisticated models OM2sp and newer which use integrated circuits. OM2 is built on discrete parts and can be serviced AFAIK. With OM1 you are ok as it only has a common light meter.
The material the light seals are made of is deteriorated by the time. Unfortunately Olympus used the same material inside the top over the prism. It destroys the prism by the time and must be removed. If you decide to buy one you should consider a CLA. The repairsman will then adjust the light meter to a new battery type too.

Ulrich
 
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