Lone Pine or Big Pine for Alabama Hills, Bristlecone Pines and Death Valley

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Rob Skeoch

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Hey Guys,
I know many of you have traveled the area for years.
Where would you suggest I stay if I want to hang out for a day or two in each of these places?
Trying to put a April trip together. I'm thinking it's Lone Pine and drive each day but happy to learn a better way.
Alabama Hills
Bristlecone Pines
Death Valley
 

chuckroast

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Hey Guys,
I know many of you have traveled the area for years.
Where would you suggest I stay if I want to hang out for a day or two in each of these places?
Trying to put a April trip together. I'm thinking it's Lone Pine and drive each day but happy to learn a better way.
Alabama Hills
Bristlecone Pines
Death Valley

If he is still around, check with Chuck Farmer. He has run workshops out there:

 

bdial

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Ridgecrest, CA might work.
It’s an hour or so from Lone Pine, a couple of hours from Death Valley and Alabama hills (as I recall).
Not certain on the Bristlecones.
 

MFstooges

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If you don't plan to camp then Bishop is better for the choice of food and supplies. It's also the farthest. But if you prefer quieter town then either Big Pine or Lone Pine are OK.
 
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btaylor

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I was up at Lone Pine about 3 weeks ago. I was photographing up around Manzanar a few miles north of Lone Pine where I stayed at a cheap but clean motel. Pleasant town, they have everything you need. Alabama Hills is right there at Lone Pine, but the road into the campground is closed and that’s where I remember a lot of the rock formations were. There was a detour that took me through another part of the park I had not been to, I took some shots there.
Great time of year to visit Death Valley. The distances between the locations you mentioned are measured in hours of driving, so be aware they aren’t close to one another. All provide fantastic photo opportunities. I want to head back soon.
 

DREW WILEY

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The road to the Bristlecones will probably be closed by the end of the month, if it isn't already. It's 11,000 feet up there, and the road is rough. The nearest town on 395 is Independence. One has a lot more flexibility if they are able to camp; but campsites in the White Mtns are waterless. No amenities except for stunning views.

Death Valley down at the bottom is still a bit hot, but starts getting nice in November. A day trip there from Lone Pine is doable, but awfully rushed. Death Valley is a BIG place (now the largest NP in the lower 48) with a lot to see, and with considerable distances between points. If your car breaks down, it can be a long wait for help, and don't expect reliable cell phone coverage. If you can't get reservations at Furnace Creek, the nearest town is about an hour east of there in Beatty, Nevada.

The Alabama Hills begin just a mile or two outside Lone Pine along the Whitney Portal road. One can find good food along Hwy 395, but not necessarily in Lone Pine.

Elevation and weather can vary significantly. So ALWAYS have plenty of extra water and food in the car, along with warm sleeping bags and a variety of weather wear. Just this week along Hwy 395 in the Eastern Sierra, nighttime temps have been as low as 15 F. And stay on paved roads unless you have 4WD and locally inquire about present road conditions (the official websites are up to date with road conditions and other hazards).
 
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MFstooges

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Oh yeah I didn't think about it. Drew is right the Bristlecone forest normally is closed between end of October to April. High elevations during April is almost no go.

OOT I was at Big Pine trail last weekend. The trail was crowded but from three people that I saw carrying camera, only one used a Sony, the other two used analog cameras. One is a dude with Mamiya Pro TL and the other is a teenage girl who proudly carried Nikon FG.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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For Death Valley, I stayed in the town of Beatty, Nevada, just outside DV. Cheaper accommodations, food, and cheaper petrol than Death Valley. You also pass by ghost town of Rhyolite, going to and from DV.
 

DREW WILEY

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I have some cyanotype prints on the wall beside me taken by my mother's cousin as a little girl when the town of Big Pine was first being built. The collection includes box camera shots she took of women climbing Palisade Glacier in hoops skirts and with staves. The town snowplow was a big log pulled by chain by a team of oxen. My mother's uncle was a frontier circuit preacher when the little Victorian church was built there. ... Otherwise, I thought an 8X10 camera was mandatory on the trail up Big Pine Canyon.
When did the rules change? When I was in the Bristlecones last year the wind was so severe that I had to default to MF gear, even handheld.

Yeah, the time of year has a lot to do with what is accessible and what is not. But there are plenty of places to explore and photograph besides the ones mentioned. Much of the year, one could also opt to head north on 395 to Mammoth Mtn and Mono Basin. I hope to get over my cold, and drive over the top in a week of so, before the road passes close for the year. Otherwise, one has to drive around the range through the Mojave desert, and intercept 395 going north. Only Hwy 80 (Donner Pass) tries to be open all year, and generally Hwy 50 too; but even they might require chains.
 

reddesert

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Lone Pine is a pretty small town. Big Pine makes Lone Pine look like a metropolis. But Big Pine is quite close to Bishop, if you were actually going to stay there you could stay in Bishop with more choices. As others said, in April roads into the high country trailheads are going to be closed for snow. The Alabama Hills will be accessible. The BLM campgrounds in the area are typically at lower elevation than the national forests and likely pretty nice at that time of year.
 
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Rob Skeoch

Rob Skeoch

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Hey guys, thanks for the advice. Planning the trip for late April. Not planning to camp as we're flying into Vegas and renting a car. Any more advice is also helpful.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Hey guys, thanks for the advice. Planning the trip for late April. Not planning to camp as we're flying into Vegas and renting a car. Any more advice is also helpful.

Then it would make sense for you to drive up to Beatty, and use it as your base.
 

Michael Howard

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I'll also be in Vegas and surrounds in late April (19-26 likely). Death Valley is great in late April, you should also possibly look into Valley of Fire if you have time.
 

DREW WILEY

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Late April will be starting to get hot, but at least the dusty March winds will have ceased. The higher viewpoints above Death Valley will be comfortable if you have time to drive there. Valley of Fire State Park is about half an hour out of Vegas, and Zion NP is only two hours away, but the opposite direction from Death Valley and the southern Sierra. The Bristlecones will not be accessible yet.

It's hard to say how many side roads above 395 leading uphill into the Sierra will have snow removed by then, since seasonal snowfall can vary quite a bit. You can inquire locally. Above Lone Pine, you have the Whitney Portal road; above Independence, the road leading up to Little Onion Valley, also with dramatic vistas. Above Bishop, the highway is typically kept open as far as Aspendell. All of these will give you more intimate views of the southern part of the Range than Hwy 395 itself can provide. If you drive as far north as Mammoth, you can take the gondola ride to the summit and look across the canyon to the stunning Ritter Range. But there will probably be plenty of skiers on it too. The June Lake loop is also kept open year-round. It can snow anytime at the higher elevations, however, so bring suitable clothing and footwear for both cold and hot weather.
 

images39

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Love that area, need to get back sometime soon. I've stayed at the Best Western in Lone Pine and it was fine (though that was about 10 years ago). Lone Pine gave good access to Alabama Hills, Death Valley and the Manzanar historical site.

I agree that if you're coming via Las Vegas, Beatty might make the most sense, especially if your top priority is spending time in Death Valley.

Dale
 

DREW WILEY

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Furnace Creek Inn gets pretty booked up in advance; but it would be right there in the center of Death Valley, at it's only well-watered spot.

I recently got thinking about one of the Indian kids I grew up with, who was the grandson of "Shoshone George", who as a youngster was out hunting bighorn sheep with his bow and arrows, and saw in person from a hill the first wagon train party attempting to cross Death Valley - watching them and their livestock keel over dead one at a time. That is the first time he had not only seen white men, but livestock, wheels, and iron. And, reminiscing about that on his 100th birthday in 1940, he recalled his thoughts on just how stupid such people must be trying to travel with all that seemingly useless stuff.

The Shoshone actually lived pretty well in that environment, heading up to the slopes of Telegraph Peak in hotter weather, where pine nuts and game were abundant, and where reliable springs exist, at least until miners arrived. George eventually ended up working at the gold mines himself, but held contempt for the white man's obsession with "yellow iron".
 
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Richard Man

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With Death Valley, tank up every chance you get. It's long distance from one spot to the other spot.
 

DREW WILEY

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A good read of the Jayhawker Party's ordeal getting through there occurs in Chalfant's history of Inyo County. In their case, "tanking up" meaning getting from one tiny water hole to the next, without knowing if or when there would be another one. Most of them didn't make it. The last of them out, looking back, appropriately came up with the name, "death valley". They had to leave nearly everything behind, and still had two weeks to go on foot before they arrived at the streams flowing from the Sierra Nevada, and the help of settlers there. That was in Winter. If it were in summer, it would have been hopeless. And some perished by trying unsuccessful routes. Now people run the whole distance for sport; but they have medical staff in air conditioned vehicles following them, with plenty of water, and spare running shoes too.
 

gijsbert

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I've stayed at Stovepipe Wells, a bit pricey, but the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes in Death Valley are a few minutes drive - sunrise there is a favourite of mine.
I've been to Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest mid April and early May with just a bit snow so it can be accessible at that time. But it was cold! One time it was so windy (and cold!) that I almost couldn't make any photos. Still worth it to see it though, but prepare!
Whitney Portal near Lone Pine is nice too, you can do the first few miles of the trail to Mount Whitney without a permit, fun to walk in an alpine mountain habitat and then go to a Death Valley desert!
And if you have the time, like Drew mentioned, Valley of Fire is nice - an hour or two north of Vegas.
Have fun!
 

DREW WILEY

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There are all kinds of ongoing road condition issues due to both severe winter snowfall in recent years following the drought, as well as exceptional summer flashfloods on the desert side of the range. A lot of repairs have been completed these past two years, but not all. In all of these areas never trust an auto navigation device - they can lead you to a dead end in the middle of nowhere. The major paved roads intersecting Death Valley are straightforward, but have themselves been severely impacted time to time from flash flooding. But the formal Govt websites of the NP Service and Inyo National Forest are kept well updated per road conditions.

The road up to the Bristlecones is paved only as far as Schulman Grove, which does have some great panoramic views along it. But
the more classic section of the road just begins there, and follows the crest at around 11,000 ft all the way to Patriarch Grove, where the oldest and most weather-beaten trees are. It's a long bumpy drive doable in a passenger car, but slow and rough. Normally none of the road is open in late Spring at all - that would have been an exceptional drought circumstance. Bring a warm jacket even in Summer. The views are wonderful, along with the trees and rock formations. Allow an entire day for that excursion from somewhere nearby on Hwy
395 like Lone Pine or Bishop - not from distant Beatty or Death Valley!

Above Death Valley itself, branching off the main highway a little beyond Stove Pipe Wells, is the narrow but paved Wildrose Road, leading up to the charcoal kilns, with its own brief but easy unpaved side branch to Aguereberry Point, one of the best overlooks of
Death Valley, which gives an idea of its sheer scale. I've been there one of the times there was a shallow 35 mile long lake in the bottom of Death Valley after exceptional winter rains. But it looked like a little pond from up there! Check ahead of time about snow conditions or road repairs.

The Mesquite Dunes are not far from Stovepipe Wells, as well as the popular Mosaic Canyon trail.

One the east side of the Valley above Furnace Creek, or coming from Beatty, you have easy access to the paved road leading to the famous overlooks of Zabriskie Point and Dante's View, best visited at dawn or sunset.

But the road headed into the north end of the Valley, toward the mysterious Racetrack playa and Ubehebe Crater, is a long bumpy marathon drive. Beyond that, it's strictly 4WD into the equally spectacular northern half of the Park, Saline Valley, if the track is negotiable at all from that direction. Attempting it in hot months is tantamount to suicide. I was once nearly trampled by wild burros back in there; then to add insult to injury, had a venison steak stolen right off my hot Coleman tailgate stove by a coyote. That's the kind of drive where you want two spare tires, a spare Jerry can of gas, and two weeks worth of food and water just in case. I mention it only to give a sense of scale of just how big the Park is. The part most people drive through on paved roads, as big as that is, is only a fourth.
 
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