Lomography Earl Grey (35mm) Rodinal stand development

[Lumipan]

I'm thinking 1:100 for 40minutes, should be enough?

Digital truth devchart says 1:50 8 minutes for standard development.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

The generally accepted time for most b&w films in 1:100 rodinal is 60 minutes. Agitate well for the first minute and again at any interval of your choosing.

One advantage of using such a high dilution is that exact development time isn't critical. 40 minutes would likely be fine, especially with some additional agitation.

 

[Lumipan]

The generally accepted time for most b&w films in 1:100 rodinal is 60 minutes. Agitate well for the first minute and again at any interval of your choosing.

One advantage of using such a high dilution is that exact development time isn't critical. 40 minutes would likely be fine, especially with some additional agitation.

Thanks, I followed your advice and did it for 60mins. It looks good on the first glance. I'll see it tomorrow when it dries...

 

[otto.f]

Is this film an alternative for people like me who can’t get the Ferrania P30 under control?

 

[Lumipan]

Is this film an alternative for people like me who can’t get the Ferrania P30 under control?

I don't know anything about Ferrania. I bought Lomo because it was cheaper than some other films

 

[Lumipan]

It came out quite grainy, highlights are a bit over the top. I'll probably try 'normal' developing next time...

Still I like the images... I'll make a few prints tomorrow and see. Just bought the multigrade filters

 

[otto.f]

highlights are a bit over the top

Still nice. Btw Rodinal is the king of grain and not always pretty. In this high key photo it is at its best, grainwise.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

You definitely didn't lose any shadow detail, that's for sure. The heavy grain is characteristic of rodinal, especially when scanning, but can be less apparent when enlarging.

A good candidate for multigrade printing as you mentioned. Good luck!

 

[madNbad]

When I was getting answers to my thread about developing Tri-X in Rodinal, the information about Rodinals effect on ISO was helpful. Try reducing the ISO by 1 stop and see if that makes any difference.

 

[Lumipan]

Grain is not an issue when enlarging at 5x7 size. As you said the grain is most distracting when scanning film, but that can be dealt with software

I kind of like these overblown highlights on my screen, but when printing they are just too much, very contrasty negatives.

I think I'll get some Perceptol and try to develop my next film with it...

 

[mshchem]

Grain is not an issue when enlarging at 5x7 size. As you said the grain is most distracting when scanning film, but that can be dealt with software

I kind of like these overblown highlights on my screen, but when printing they are just too much, very contrasty negatives.

I think I'll get some Perceptol and try to develop my next film with it...

Treat yourself to a roll of Kodak T-Max 400 or 100. Keep your Rodinal and use the 1+25 dilution and a Paterson tank. 68-70°F.

 

[Lumipan]

Treat yourself to a roll of Kodak T-Max 400 or 100. Keep your Rodinal and use the 1+25 dilution and a Paterson tank. 68-70°F.

Ok, I'll take your advice and try to develop with 1+25 Rodinal next time and buy a film instead of a new developer. Currently I'm shooting FP4 125, so will try it with that one.

 

[mshchem]

Ok, I'll take your advice and try to develop with 1+25 Rodinal next time and buy a film instead of a new developer. Currently I'm shooting FP4 125, so will try it with that one.

Oh yeah, FP4 is the perfect film for Rodinal. Rodinal is amazing stuff, I use the Adox Rodinal and Kodak XTOL, that's all I use for film developers. Rodinal is so economical, 10mL per 36exp, no wasted product etc.

I love FP4, everyone who pines for Plus-X and other vintage films should try FP4.