Loading a standard SLR

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MattKing

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I basically have one hand available to load film, so I need to have a place to put the cassette when I am threading the leader into the take-up system. So for me, the traditional method is best.

I've never used a bottom loading camera, but I have used one (Koada 35 RF) with a back and bottom that comes off completely for loading (like the original Nikon F?).

Lets just say I appreciate modern improvements like a hinged back.
 

Xmas

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Lets leave the Oskar Barnack design out of this, as I am talking about a standard SLR.

Ok sorry first two paras were for:

- normal SLR or
- Swinging door rangefinder or P&S
- Leica M
- Contax II and derivatives

the last para was for;-

- Barnacks or
- bottom loading clones

It is easy to miss load.
 

Theo Sulphate

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Assuming this thread excludes "easy-load" cameras where you just pull the leader to a marker and close the back...

Usually when changing film I'm standing up, shading the camera and holding it in one hand, so I'm pretty much forced to just drop the cassette in (keeping the leader from smacking the shutter), then pulling the leader over to thread the spool. Until now, never heard of the second method.
 

fstop

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I've been using the second method for close to forty years.

but for argument sake, I think Miller Lite tastes great.
 
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cliveh

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I've been using the second method for close to forty years.

but for argument sake, I think Miller Lite tastes great.

But have you tasted San Miguel?
 

mopar_guy

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Dr Croubie

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The ones I know are the earlier Zenits. They are close to what a Leica II would be with an SLR box.

I dare say that's probably how they were designed, too.
 

Pioneer

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After my 1st Guinness I could care less if it is filling or not! :smile:

I used to use the first method but I changed when I began working with the Pentax LX. Takes one hand to hold the camera and one hand to slide the film leader into the magic filters. Once in I wind on the camera once, pull the cassette over and drop it into the camera, slide the rewind knob home and close the camera. Fastest loading 35mm camera, I own with the possible exception of a couple of my newer 35s equipped with power wind. But I have found that it also works great with all kinds of 35mm cameras.

I can see where there is the possibility of debris falling into the shutter gate but it hasn't happened so far. Unlike my Leica Barnacks where it seems I am constantly removing film chards.
 

bdial

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I don't see where one method would make debris falling into the shutter any more likely than the other. If there is debris on the film or cassette that you are loading, it shouldn't be there and should be cleaned first.
I've never found it to be a problem though, even with film I've unloaded, stuck into my my pocket and reloaded.

As for method, I use both, depending on what's convenient at the time. The second way can be slightly faster, especially if the camera has a motorized advance.

Regarding bottom loaders, what on earth was Oscar thinking?:smile:
 

baachitraka

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I secure the cassette first and bring the leader to take up spool...
 

E. von Hoegh

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For many years I loaded a standard SLR by dropping the cassette into the film chamber, holding it there with my thumb and then pulling out enough film across the focal plane to thread the leader into the take up spool slit and then winding on a couple of times before shutting the back. However, some years ago I saw an American video where the guy held the cassette in the palm of his hand above the focal plane and then threaded the leader into the take up spool, before winding on and then moving the cassette to the left to drop the cassette in the film chamber. I tried this and it seems to be a much better way of loading. How do others do it?

I do it that way, always have.
 

narsuitus

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I use both methods. I have no preference.

However, I tend to use the first method when I am not in a hurry and the second method when I am loading film while walking.
 

camtec

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The second method is better. The act of using your thumb to hold the film down can cause damage to some shutters especially the Nikon FE2 and FM2. Sometimes the blades get bent and that screws up the shutter. An additional note is to make sure the advance sprocket engages the sprocket holes in the film both top and bottom.
 

hdeyong

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I'd never tried the method of starting the film before dropping the canister into it's place under the rewind knob, so after reading this post, I did.
And, it worked really well! Good enough, that it's the only way I'll do it from now on.
 
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cliveh

cliveh

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I'd never tried the method of starting the film before dropping the canister into it's place under the rewind knob, so after reading this post, I did.
And, it worked really well! Good enough, that it's the only way I'll do it from now on.

My OP was not in vain.
 

Steve Smith

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I do it both ways.. Whichever way I do it, the other way is probably better!

I think It depends on the camera. If the take up spool rotates in the opposite direction to the film cassette and the film enters the spool underneath, I normal locate it in the spool first. On older cameras (usually) where the take up spool rotates the same way as the film and the the film enters the spool over the top, I put the cassette in place first.


Steve.
 

analoguey

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Depends on the sock, and the conditions.

Method 1 of loading the film works crappily with my Nikon FG20 while the other's just right. OTOH, My Dad's Minolta XGM hates method 2 and method 1 works perfectly.

Of course, with the auto-loading cameras that I grew up with, you just had to pop the roll in, draw the leader to the red dot/strip, and close the back. Camera would do the actual loading.
 

John_Nikon_F

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For the past 15-20 years, I've done it the second way. Never had a shutter curtain get damaged due to debris. I usually insert the leader into the takeup spool, then, slide the roll across the film gate and let it drop into the chamber. Then, I manually operate the takeup spool until the leader has wrapped around it once. Close the back, take up the slack, then fire my two shots, leaving the camera uncocked on frame zero. On the F2 bodies, since I have to depress the rewind button to operate the spool, I usually wait to take up the slack until I've started using the advance lever, to cause the button to pop back out. I also don't rewind my film all the way into the cassette before I've opened the back. Less likely to wrinkle an F, F2, or F3 shutter curtain by doing that.

-J
 

ciniframe

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With my OM-1 I've always used method #2 and I've even loaded this way while running to catch up with an unfolding event that was moving fast. But my old Pen F won't load this way, I have to use method #1 and be very careful that the leader is secure in the take up spindle.
 

Andrew K

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load the take up spool, fire the shutter once, and pull the cassette across, drop it in and push down the rewind knob. Tension the film, slam the back door shut, wind on twice and shoot...

Sounds long winded...on a Canon Nf1 with motor takes me about 3 seconds at most....

On a SRT Minolta takes a bit longer - maybe 5 seconds....
 
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