• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

List of good P&S camera's

Procession

A
Procession

  • 1
  • 0
  • 50
Millers Lane

A
Millers Lane

  • 4
  • 2
  • 76

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
202,901
Messages
2,847,246
Members
101,532
Latest member
aduvalphoto
Recent bookmarks
0

If the -1/3 would fix the problem then the camera just need to be calibrated. The problem with the matrix metering I experienced with the F5 that if I use color negative I can't pick a compensation value that would work. I have sent it back to Nikon twice for meter calibration within the 2 years period when it was new and still under warranty.
 
If you can do without auto-focus, try the Olympus Trip 35. Going through your list:
* lens quality is famous, making this camera a cult classic;
* metering is accurate (but check first on such old cameras);
* flexibility: you have manual f-stops at 1/40th second;
* small size;
* no battery (Selenium cell powers meter);
* price is around US$40 for a working one.

The disadvantage: You must focus by symbol (on top of focus ring) or by scale (on bottom of focus ring).

Mark Overton


Other option for scale focus is Petri Color 35, not the Color EE, accurate meter, small, very good 4 element 40 2.8 lens, the distance scale and meter read out shows in the viewfinder, not much larger than a Rollei 35, only downsize, hard to change the battery, must take off the back so need to wind up film or use a changing bag.
 
Quite the contrary, as center-weighted meters have proven inadequate with slide film without compensation!

You said -1/3. What do you mean by that? And if you said center weighted meters of a typical good SLR is inadequate with slide film then none of the compact cameras will do for you. The answer to your original question is NONE.
 
You mean if you set the compensation -1/3 then it would work fine? If that the case the camera needs be calibrated. That's all.

Perhaps you need a lesson in exposure compensation! A course on the basic fundamentals of photography would be a start.
 
Perhaps you need a lesson in exposure compensation! A course on the basic fundamentals of photography would be a start.

I think you do as I have successfully shot thousands (if not ten of thousand) of slides with the center weighted metering and in many times without any meter. I also tested dozens of so called P&S and all of them the meters are not as accurate as an SLR center weighted meter (F2AS, F3HP, FM, F5)
 
I am a professionally trained photographer with 45 years of experience! What has been clear to me since day one is that many people here are complete con artists who don't know the first thing about photography!
 
and another trolling thread by poor old george
 
I am a professionally trained photographer with 45 years of experience! What has been clear to me since day one is that many people here are complete con artists who don't know the first thing about photography!

As a test engineer, I would readily admit I am a technologist first and a photographer second . . . a very distant second. People close to me think I am good but that is only because I have overcome camera shake . . . :whistling:

This is me demonstrating my control over camera shake taken at the end of a >2 mile hike using a Pentax LX in aperture priority mode, timer, flat rock with Fuji 100 film.

large.jpg
 
I think you do as I have successfully shot thousands (if not ten of thousand) of slides with the center weighted metering

So, you either avoid high contrast scenes, or don't have a problem with blown highlights. Which is it?
 
What I would like to see is a list comprised of:

Lens quality (sharpness, resolve, contrast, color rendition, etc.).
Metering accuracy and ability (suitable for slide film?).
Flexibility (manual control, defeatable flash?).
Camera size, and type of battery.
Current going price.

After reading through four pages of this, it seems like no such list can be compiled to the OP''s satisfaction. End of story, tap "Ignore Thread" button, g'bye . . .
 
After reading through four pages of this, it seems like no such list can be compiled to the OP''s satisfaction. End of story, tap "Ignore Thread" button, g'bye . . .

Other than the LULZ, I can't think of a reason for it to continue.
 
Without a doubt, I'd have to add my Contax T3 to the list. Lens is unbelievable for such a camera.
 
Hi George, Let me begin by saying I am not an officiando but I would like to add an objective comment if you allow.... I strongly believe that slide film was at it most popular during the 60's and early 70's. Therefore I would assume that cameras of that era would be a good place to start if you can find a good working version...
  • Yashica Electro 35
  • Yashica Lynx
  • Voigtlander Vito Automatic
  • Minolta Hi-Matic 7
They may not be "pocket sized" but they may produce decent results. Personally, I have owned a Yashica Electro 35 and have put rolls of slide film through it and I was impressed with the results. During the 90's and 00's I belonged to a camera club that held lots of slide competitions, and everyone appeared to use SLR cameras because it was important to compensate for the lighting conditions (so maybe metering for film cameras of that era weren't biased towards slide film) - I remember having to configure a Canon A1 to underexpose by a quarter of a stop and found that the aperture priority could produce slides with punchy colour.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom