Photo Engineer said:When I want to do it, I make my own.
PE
gandolfi said:simple or?
I've only tried a very simple home made emulsion once - lots of fun, but the product I can buy is still so much much better (yet)..
I know the SE1 best (from Kentmere I think)
used it for years.
I have recently have been familiar to the emulsion FOMA makes - that's quality for you..(I didn't get enough last time I was in Prague; won't make that mistake next time....)
I also know Liquid light from Rochland (too difficult for me......)
Tetenal "WORK" which is far too expensive..
MACO VC (not good in my first experience, but I am gonna do it some more.)
in short: 80% of my images are now made in liquid emulsions - it is actually cheaper (and much better) than "normal" papers..
(quicker too)
David A. Goldfarb said:Luminos papers were Kentmere, and I'd bet the emulsion was as well.
as I said before, I have tried to make it my self once - a little soft, but good fun..Photo Engineer said:I am working on the methodology of contrast control.
It is related to halide content, size frequency distribution, and gelatin. I don't have everything down pat, so I keep getting grades ~1.0 and ~2.0, but I can't do better than that. Basically I have 2 grades of paper, but that isn't enough. Also, the lower grade has too low a maximum density which I must work on as well.
If you can get the papers from Agfa which were collected at the end of WWII, there is a discussion in there on contrast control of paper emulsions. Much of it is in German or uses German technical terms. It isn't too hard to follow with a good dictionary.
PE
Photo Engineer said:I am working on the methodology of contrast control.
It is related to halide content, size frequency distribution, and gelatin. I don't have everything down pat, so I keep getting grades ~1.0 and ~2.0, but I can't do better than that. Basically I have 2 grades of paper, but that isn't enough. Also, the lower grade has too low a maximum density which I must work on as well.
If you can get the papers from Agfa which were collected at the end of WWII, there is a discussion in there on contrast control of paper emulsions. Much of it is in German or uses German technical terms. It isn't too hard to follow with a good dictionary.
PE
gnashings said:Sorry if this is off-topic, but could someone tell me why and how they are "better" than regular paper? I am not arguing - I simply don't know. Thanks,
Peter.
Photo Engineer said:Ryuji, I now have grades from about 1 - 4 with dmax and dmin being acceptable. I have achieved both sulfur sensitization and spectral (ortho) sensitivity.
I have a range of speeds from contact grade through fast enlarger speed, and one emulsion which is ISO 25, as exposed in-camera. I have 4 sensitizing dyes I'm working with and 4 emulsions. I have several types of gelatin to use to adjust the emulsion characteristics as well. I expect that I may achieve an ISO speed of 100 soon, if all goes well, but who knows.
PE
gnashings said:Thanks. Do you ever put it on lets say, canvas? How would you dev that? I've been wanting to try some alternative surfaces (wood, rock) for some images - as well as the rather "done to death" canvas... But I am a bit scared because I don't know how to handle any of the processes. Do you spray the emulsion on for even coating (I have an airbrush), or does it give adequate smoothness and even coverage from brushing?
Sorryto hijack the thread - let me know if I am getting too way off topic here.
Thanks again for the info,
Peter.
Photo Engineer said:The book "Silver Gelatin" by Reed and Jones is excellent on this topic. I highly recommend it to all interested in this.
I have coated canvas with my emulsion using a paint brush. It gets pretty limp during coating and processing. Kind of like working with a big paper towel, except it doesn't tear.
PE
Photo Engineer said:The book "Silver Gelatin" by Reed and Jones is excellent on this topic. I highly recommend it to all interested in this.
I have coated canvas with my emulsion using a paint brush. It gets pretty limp during coating and processing. Kind of like working with a big paper towel, except it doesn't tear.
Thanks Ryuji for your comment. Your do very good work yourself and have made a lot of progress. I'm still working on my emulsions. They are no where near optimum, but I do have values for Sulfur, Dye, and Iodide content. Now it is a matter of combining them all at one time instead of doing one at a time or doing them in pairs. I have tried them in pairs but not all 3 in one experiment. That will probably be next week.
PE
Ryuji said:I used all sorts of paper, several plastic films, glass plate, some ceramic tiles, etc. I generally get very good adhesion on paper, some plastic, glass and ceramic. What I use the most are paper and glass. They are very easy to coat.
Some people use canvas but not me. You'll have to handle it very carefully, but otherwise similarly to fiber based paper. Though I have no experience with 3D objects, I'd use brush or finger (on nitrile gloves) to coat emulsion. (If the object is small, I would also consider dip coating.) I'd make two or three thin coats with brush or finger. But the reason people use liquid emulsion products is because they want to use some imperfection as a part of the art. I personally coat the paper after selecting the image and decide how big I want to blow up, where to burn-in by how many stops, etc. (do the "preview" with AGFA paper.) If you seek perfect hi-fi type reproruction you should look elsewhere, such as digital printers.
Anyway, creative use of commercial liquid emulsion products are discussed among alt-process people, so you might want to look into that group.
A note: silver-gelatin emulsion has a huge advantage over most other chemical photographic processes in terms of enlarging speed, thus eliminating the need to make enlarged negatives. Silver-gelatin is the ideal process if you want to make 3D or large prints that is difficult to handle with contact print processes.
Photo Engineer said:Sandy, some of the benefits of silver halide include sensitization to various portions of the spectrum other than just UV, and also the potential for various speeds.
Along with making the emulsions, I am working on methods to improve hand coating. This will work for any light sensitive system, even carbon.
PE
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