Linhof Technika IV lens suggestion

David A. Goldfarb

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As an academic exercise, I checked which lens/shutter is the largest one I own that will fold in a Technika, and I can say definitively that an 8.25” Dagor in an Ilex #3 shutter on a flat board will close in a Technika, so a 7” Dagor in any shutter the same size or smaller should close inside the camera.

In practice, though, I use the 8.25” Dagor as an 8x10” lens, and I have a 210mm Symmar convertible that makes more sense for 4x5” in that it uses the filters and shades in my 4x5” kit and has more than enough coverage for 4x5” and is cammed for the Tech V. The 210mm Symmar does not close inside the camera.
 
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Camerarabbit

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Thank you! Ill look into this
 
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Camerarabbit

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Good point.
 

Ian Grant

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You indicated a 150mm in a #1 shutter wouldn't fold, that's what I queried.

Ian
 

Ian Grant

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Not sure if Congo/Osaka made a 180mm f6.3 Commercial lens, they did make an f4.5 but that's in a Copal #3 shutter. My Osaka Commercial 210mm f6.3 is in a Copal #1 and is a small lens and folds away on my MPP Micro Technical MkIII's and MkVII, slightly longer the Kodak 203mm f7.7 Ektar will definite fold away as well UK versions are in Epsilon, Protor, or Compur #0 shutters depending on when manufactured. US versions are in a larger Kodak shutter, or late versions in a Copur #1 but all fit.

My light weight lens set is a 90mm f6.8 Angulon, 150mm f5.6 Xenar, and 203mm f7.7 Ektar, all will fold away on the MPP, or Super & Crown Graphics I use.

Ian
 

138S

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so it's not like a lens outside the camera adds much to your kit.

Yes... The technikas are insanely good cameras, but it's hand-holdability is not much practical anyway, still they sport a rangefinder.

_____________________


OP, for advanced achitecture shooting what you need is a good lens with ample coverage.

Here you have an extensive review and the manual: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/linhof/technika.html

With the technila you'll have to practice this kind of operation to shine in architecture:




Achitecture glass usually sports an oversized image circle to allow extensive movements. That oversized circle takes a lot of light that ends bouncing in the bellows and generating a lot of flare, so a compendium shade may be very usefull to overcome flare.


Of course it depends on what architechture shooting style you are to practice, but in general LF architecture shooting is a challenging discipline, mastering movements is important.

For that I would prefer a monorail of the Sinar Norma class, I feel the technika is more landscape oriented but as it's a very versatile camera it also will do architecture with indirect movements like those depicted in the picture I posted.
 
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Camerarabbit

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Thank you, that is a great image! I'm getting some great lessons here.
I prefer to shoot in a straightforward, simple way, like the photos on Bellows's website. I typically usually do a slight rise and all other adjustments by just physically positioning myself so that camera captures what I want. I have a Kardan Standard which is great and I agree, much better for arch photography, but I love that that the Technika fits into a backpack and takes 30 seconds to set up.
 

138S

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One of the problems found in architecture shooting is that you may not be able to shot from the place you want, because you have an obstacle, etc, then you displace the tripod to a viable place and point the camera to de direction that gives you the view you want but that direction does not place your subject on film, then you use movements (image placement) to put the subject on the film sheet... This is why large circles and ample movements are desired. Don't worry, not necessary to start with that, this is something you will find in your progression, but for sure that when you discover it you will love it.

For the moment see how the bed drop allows to extent rise, and what indirect movements are...
 
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