Lil help here... again. Jumping in the deep end.

[Jason Muelver]

I grew up developing film, my dad was a commercial photographer.

I've decided I want to get back into developing my own film.

I have Hewes reels and a 30 oz stainless tank w/ stainless top.

Now the questions...

For now, I'm going to agitate and set using XTOL or ID-11. But I'm also rebuilding a bessler motor base. Sooo....

1) If I'm shaking and souping, do I use 30 oz of chemicals? I will be doing probably 1 120 or 2 120's at a time.

2) When I get to using the motor base, will I need to alter the amount of chemicals and times?

3) Does it make sense to get a PVC with light sealed cap, or just stick with the stainless top and turn out the lights, dump, fill, recap and go?

I've read the board lots and lots and it's like drinking out of a fire hose!!

 

[Cromlech]

I cannot help, but here's my advice:

Go slow, you do not want to make any mistakes.

Do not forget stop bath and the fixer, etc.

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, Jason,

1--The nominal amount of solution for a SS 120 reel is 16 oz., but, with most SS tanks, a little less than 32 oz. will generally cover two reels. It's easy to check: just put two empty reels in the tank, add 28 oz of water and see if it covers. If not, add a couple of ounces, or a couple more until you determine what's required. Slightly too much is better than barely enough.

2--With a two-reel SS tank, I'd just use inversion agitation at 30-second intervals. (A SS tank with a SS lid would be problematic on a motor base anyway, since the lid could easily come loose.)

3--If the SS top fits well (doesn't leak much and goes on and off readily), there's no particular reason not to continue using it. I have several SS tanks, some with SS tops and some with plastic tops; I don't find any distinct advantage either way.

Konical

 

[Jason Muelver]

Thanks for the replies.

Konical...

Did you find it impractical to shut the lights off and fill in the dark? I do have a bathroom in the house that has no windows, and I'm going to use that instead of a bag/tent thingie.

Since it's a 30oz tank, I'll run the formulas for a 1:2 XTOL solution for 28oz and give it a go!

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, Jason,

I dislike taking the time to use the fill/empty spout, except occasionally for filling with water for the pre-development pre-soak. After the pre-soak, I kill the lights, remove the top, dump the water, and pour in developer. After the development step, I generally kill the lights, remove the tank top, put the film reels in the washer, dump the developer and rinse the tank, pour in the fixer, replace the reels and top, and turn on the lights. After the fixing, of course, the lights stay on for subsequent steps.

Konical

 

[bdial]

The easiest way is to fill the tank before you go dark, then you just pop the reels in, put the lid on and start agitating. It's slightly hectic at that moment, but if you plan out all your moves it's not a problem.
You may want to consider a single reel tank to start off with, which you can fill in the light. Then move to the multi-reel tank when you're familiar with everything again.
I always fill the tank.

 

[lns]

3. If you are saying that your stainless steel tank does not have a light-tight cap, then I would say, buy one that does. But that's because I like to develop in the light. Also, I'm totally the type of absent-minded person who would open the cap with the lights on and would lose two rolls that way.

I'm not sure you can buy a plastic top that fits all older tanks, because every older tank I have is different. But many tanks, used or new, are available with light-tight tops. One more thing -- I have had the occasional plastic lid failure, so I bought a few spare plastic lids at B&H.

Enjoy!

-Laura