Light is light, exposure is exposure, it does not matter if the recording medium is electronic or chemical or its physical size. What will matter is color of the light source and its recorded color.
Try "Gandolfi" on this site.Hi all,
I was pondering something new to do....and it popped into my brain to maybe try some light painting at night, with various MF cameras I have....particualrly the larger ones.
My first thought for something REALLY unusual, was try try it with the 6x17 view camera, maybe with a car and the lake with palm trees there.
Ok, let's assume it is pretty dark...and somehow I get composition and focus.
I can use my cable release to bulb it open, first time actually WANTING the darned thing to stay open and locked...haha.
But how would I figure how much I'd have to do to get a decent exposure on film?
I've played with this on digital, but with that, I just would try a few test shots and look at the results on the back to get my timing, etc....and even with that, I'd shoot multiple images lighting different parts of the subject..example a car....some shots painting the wheels, the parts of the hood, etc.
After this I'dl composite them in Affinity Photo or PS.
But with my big pano camera...not sure how'd I'd pull this off.
I"m guessing I'd go with a decently small aperture, maybe f/16 or so...?
But say I'm using 400 or even 160 for doing a really long exposure....how would I go about figuring out how long to go?
It is going to be purely experiment and see if any of the 4 shots per roll of 120 film come out? Maybe I have to end up compositing them anyway?
Anyway....the idea struck me as an interesting and different one, and wondering if someone could give suggestions about pulling of successful exposure with light painting, with the environment being essentialy dark and the light painting being the predominant source of light.
Thank you in advance!!
C
I presume you are using flash. If you have an auto flash, set it on AUTO and trigger it manually with the lens open and try not to overlap the exposure areas. You would want to do this at night. Use the aperture indicated on the flash.
To do what you want to do I think you need to use electronic flash. Using a flash with a high GN makes it easy. Measure the distance from the flash to the subject and trigger the flash while keeping the shutter open on bulb. Aperture is picked on the flash GN. Move on to the next subject. You may want to underexpose some areas and completely leave others in the dark.
The Guide Number is usually just a recommendation, since light output can vary even within the same model. Even with a flash meter, you should either bracket exposures or do tests before shooting.
My caution is based only on my experience. Yes, even the Vivitar 283 and it's more advanced kin, the 285 were very consistent, as are newer flashes, based on improved manufacturing standards. I started out using old Graflex and Strobonar flashes. Their output would vary some especially based on power sources. If you ran Strobonars on AC, the flash output was less than on batteries, and even that varied based on internal Nicads or 510v. Even 200 W/S units such as Lumedyne had some differences.Hmm. Each of the little fixed-output flashes produced very consistent output. None matched its manufacturer's claimed GN. My Vivitar 283s with VP-1 units were also very consistent, again did not match Vivitar's claimed GNs. You're right, testing is necessary, but only once for each flash.
Flash meter -- I have 2 -- not necessary, but given a flash meter using it to measure GN is much less expensive than using film. No need to bracket either. Remember that using GN arithmetic is equivalent to metering incident light. In both cases, one stops down a little for pale subjects and opens up a little for light ones. Learning how much to stop down/open up takes very little experimentation/practice.
GN = Guide Number. It's the mathematical relationship between exposure in f/stops, to the light source/subject distance, using the ISO (film or sensor) as the basis.
A subject x number of feet from the light source will call for an f/stop of y, depending on the flash manufacturer's guide number expressed in meters or feet.
The Guide Number is usually just a recommendation, since light output can vary even within the same model. Even with a flash meter, you should either bracket exposures or do tests before shooting.
The Roanoke VA train depot/museum is mostly devoted to his work. Incredible.Hot stuff, look into O. Winston Link's train photography. What he did is logically equivalent to what you want to do.
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