lighter area on the side of the film

[Rinthe]

Dead Link Removed

any idea what's causing this? btw this is tmax 100.

 

[clayne]

If it's on the neg (use a loupe), then it looks like some form of light leak. The fact that the hasselblad mask is stopping it right at the edge is probably something to consider (as opposed to bleed-through).

 

[Rinthe]

oh yes forgot to mention that i'm using a hasselblad 500cm. is this something that i could fix myself or do i need to send it in for repair?

 

[Jeff Kubach]

I would go thru a another roll of film and see that happens again and go from there.

Jeff

 

[Slixtiesix]

The foams can be replaced easily, they are not very expensive and it is a "Do it yourself" job. So don´t worry if it is a light leak.

Regards, Benjamin

 

[wclark5179]

Could it be not enough developer used? Didn't fill it to the height of the film & reel?

Is it on both sides? Strange.

 

[Rinthe]

Jeff Kubach: I will do that

Slixtiesix: where are these foams located? In the back?

 

[fschifano]

If these are light leaks, then it is possible that the foam light seals in the magazine are degraded. This is a relatively easy and inexpensive fix.

How to is here: http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HT/HTSeal.aspx

Where to get the parts is here: http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/HasselbladTrapSealSets.htm

 

[wclark5179]

Here is a spot to look at replacing the dark light seals:

http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HT/HTSeal.aspx

Frank - we're thinking the same!

 

[fschifano]

If these are light leaks, then it is possible that the foam light seals in the magazine are degraded. This is a relatively easy and inexpensive fix.

How to is here: http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HT/HTSeal.aspx

Where to get the parts is here: http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/HasselbladTrapSealSets.htm

 

[Rinthe]

thank you, that's very helpful guys!

now is it possible that something in the developing stage could cause this type of problem?

 

[fschifano]

Not likely. If it were a problem with development, I'd expect to see the artifact over the whole roll, and not just isolated segment of the frame. If you were short of developer by a little bit in the tank, then the negative would be lighter on only one edge and it would print correspondingly darker. Other than a light leak in the camera, these artifacts can be caused by loading and unloading roll film in very bright light. The light seal between the film and spool on 120 roll film is not perfect, and sometimes the film doesn't wind onto the spool tightly enough. It is also possible that a bit too much of the backing paper was loose. It is strongly suggested that you load and unload the film in subdued light. Often simply shading the magazine with your body helps a great deal to avoid edge fogging. Are the margins of the film fogged? If you answer yes to that, it's definitely a light leak somewhere.

 

[George Collier]

Is it in every frame? If not, it could be development surge, which I get from time to time. Depending on the film/developer combination, agitation patterns can be tricky and demanding, in my experience.
I'm not talking about insufficient developer level, talking about the way the developer moves in the tank during agitation. These problems will not be consistent, or even in every frame. A light leak would probably be.

 

[Rinthe]

it seems to only show up if the side is in the midtone range, if it's dark or light, i can't see the line. I'll check out the negative for fogging later

 

[wclark5179]

Just what I do & I thought I would mention to help..

I leave the dark slides out of the film backs on cameras all the time, of course I put in when changing backs and/or storing backs but that is very infrequently. My line of thinking and someone else can chime in and correct me, is that leaving the dark slide out gives a chance of keeping the light seals in the back at the greatest thickness it was designed for. By keeping the dark slide in, I believe it compresses the material and, as it ages, it has less flex, and will not return so as it keeps out the light.

It's worked for me for quite a while and I haven't had any problems with light leaks with the film backs.

Just an aside, time is of essence in gigs I do so instead of switching backs I would switch cameras and get an associate to re-load. I have Pocket Wizards plugged in, ready to go, each lens I use. Film is not my primary medium anymore but I still make some photos with it now for a few reasons.

Hope this helps you!

 

[Rinthe]

damnit, one of the small screws is so tightly screwed in, i think i striped the top of the screw what can i do??

 

[Rinthe]

ok, i managed to get it off, i probably should replace that screw tho. anyone know where i can get a replacement?

also. the foam that ordered from http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/HasselbladTrapSealSets.htm does not the a metallic foil backed on one side, like the one i told out has. is this okay??

the old foam i took out is about 1/8 of an inch thick, and the new one i got is 1/4 of an inch thick. is the new one supposed to be that thick? I find it extremely difficult to hold it down even with the darkslide, and when i push it down, the foam kind of "comes out" on the 2 sides.

 

[clayne]

Id email the seller. That doesn't sound quite right to me. The foam shouldn't be shifting around so much it might come off at some point - screwing you in the process.

 

[Q.G.]

ok, i managed to get it off, i probably should replace that screw tho. anyone know where i can get a replacement?

also. the foam that ordered from http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/HasselbladTrapSealSets.htm does not the a metallic foil backed on one side, like the one i told out has. is this okay??

the old foam i took out is about 1/8 of an inch thick, and the new one i got is 1/4 of an inch thick. is the new one supposed to be that thick? I find it extremely difficult to hold it down even with the darkslide, and when i push it down, the foam kind of "comes out" on the 2 sides.

The foam has to be thick enough to close the slot.

The shiny foil stuck to the back of the original foams acts as a spring, bending the foam into an arch, pushing the thing up. That, to make a thinner foam appear taller and make it fill the gap it has to fill.
A thicker foam doesn't need such help, and will work o.k. (I make my own, also of a thicker foam, and never a problem.) But it does make pushing the slide in a bit more work.

Which, by the way, you of course could also do: save a considerable amount of money by making your own. Suitable, black, foam can be found in sheets in crafts and hobby shops for next to no money at all. You can make very, very many for a $ or two.

The foam will indeed go everywhere when it is pushed. That's o.k. It's how it works anyway: when you insert the slide, the foam has to fill any gap it can find.
If it does so too much, simply trim it a bit (but not that much that it doesn't fill the gap it is supposed to fill of course).

The foil (the one folded over the foam) is another matter though. It needs to be thin and hard wearing. Its function is to protect the foam against the sharp edge of the dark slide, guiding it over the foam.
The original is, i believe, a tough, stiff mylar. But whatever it is, i haven't found a suitable replacement material yet.
Luckily, it doesn't need changing often. Only when it starts to tear at the fold.
So reuse the one that's in the back, until it does. No need to throw it out, just because the foam needs replacing.

 

[Rinthe]

thanks for the good info Q.G. any idea where i can get some replacement screws for the black plate? I stripped the top of one of the screws