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Sirius Glass

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I tend to leave the yellow filter on the cameras with black & white film all the time. If there is no sky and clouds in the sky, the filter does not make enough difference to cause me to remove the filter, much like keeping a UV or Skylight filter on a lens for color slides or negatives.
 

Billy Axeman

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Filters don't have sharp transitions from one color to the other so there is always a broad range of colors affected by one filter. Take a look at actual curves and you will see what I mean. So you can talk about color theory and subtle effects on skin tones, but in practice the results are much fuzzier than suggested by that.
 

E. von Hoegh

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This expands upon the ideas given in post #18

With respect to black-and-white photography, yellow filters can enhance foreground contrast in a general way, provided that the scene is lit by the sun in a clear blue sky and that there are shadows present that are at least partially illuminated by the open blue sky. What happens is that the shadows generally receive little or no direct light from the full-spectrum sun, but usually are illuminated by light from the broader blue sky. The shadows are rich in blue light.

When we photograph the scene without a filter the blue light from the shadows is recorded on film strongly enough so that the shadows in the positive image are weak to moderate. But a yellow, orange, or red filter absorbs the blue light from the shadows, giving a weaker recording of the shadow areas on film. This results in a positive image with darker shadows. Since most scenes contain many tiny shadows, the result is greater contrast between the sunlit and shadowed areas. This can enhance the overall contrast by increasing the contrast of textured surfaces, such as sand, snow, gravel, the surface of brick, stone, concrete, grass, and other foliage, any shadow at least partially lit by the open blue sky.

There is a good example photo of this idea in the Kodak Workshop book, Using Filters. It shows two otherwise identical close-up photos of a maple leaf standing nearly upright partially embedded in snow in sunlight and under a clear, blue sky (sky not visible in photo). In the first photo taken without a filter the leaf casts a weak shadow and the snow appears as an amorphous mass of white with almost no texture. In the second photo using a Kodak Wratten #15 deep yellow filter the leaf casts a pronounced shadow and the texture of the many tiny “hills and valleys” of the surface of the snow are obvious making it quite 3-dimensional in the positive image. This photo is much more interesting and satisfying than the first one.

We already know the role of yellow, orange, and red filters in darkening a blue sky. But the darkening of shadows that are at least partially illuminated by the open blue sky to enhance foreground contrast by using the appropriate filter is often overlooked.

The Kodak Book Using Filters is a useful guide and can still be found used, and sometime as new old stock. The price is usually modest. These can easily be found using a search string, such as “Kodak book Using Filters” in Google. The book gives good explanations and with/without example photos to illustrate the ideas. Here is one such result:

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I have the publication you refer to. The Kodak technical publications were excellent!
 

DREW WILEY

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Anything bluish will be depressed about a stop, and anything warmish lightened up. Get a broad range of paint color chips and photograph them together with and without your yellow filter. You'll get the idea. It certainly isn't inert, and affects everything in the scene, not just the sky. But only you can decide if you like the results
or not.
 

BradS

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....snip, snip, snip....
When we photograph the scene without a filter the blue light from the shadows is recorded on film strongly enough so that the shadows in the positive image are weak to moderate. But a yellow, orange, or red filter absorbs the blue light from the shadows, giving a weaker recording of the shadow areas on film. This results in a positive image with darker shadows.


This is a really important point. The effect on the shadows was a surprise to me and it took a really long time for me to figure out that the yellow filter was making the shadows darker....sometimes, much darker.
 

RalphLambrecht

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For lack of a better description, i am basically a "Street Photographer".
Just shooting everyday life as it occurs in Small and Big Cities...mostly outside.
Those of you that do similar (Black & White Film) do you notice any Advantage/Benefit to leaving a Light Yellow filter on your lens.?
I think i have shot enough HP5 to have an idea what my negs typically look like with just a UV Filter. Next time i go out, i am going to keep the Light Yellow on and see what happens.
Any real reason to not do this.....or at least try it for 36 frames.?
Generally speaking, is a Light Yellow likely to make my Negs look "worse", or make them more difficult to print.?
Thank You
leaving a light yellow on for good is not a bad idea; it's also said to render images more like we see them and eliminate a wavelength sensitivity bias of regular B&W film. I agree; try it for a roll and see if you like it but how are you going to deal with different lenses?
 
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CMoore

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leaving a light yellow on for good is not a bad idea; it's also said to render images more like we see them and eliminate a wavelength sensitivity bias of regular B&W film. I agree; try it for a roll and see if you like it but how are you going to deal with different lenses?
Not sure if i completely understand your question, but.....i am dealing with a 35mm SLR.
Most of the lens are similar size, and i do have Yellow for a few sizes.....49, 52, 55
 

RalphLambrecht

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This is a really important point. The effect on the shadows was a surprise to me and it took a really long time for me to figure out that the yellow filter was making the shadows darker....sometimes, much darker.
that's true and can be overly strong with some types od trees such as pine.
 

DREW WILEY

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The Impressionists sure stirred up controversy when they painted shadows blue - but that's what they are under blue sky, and one of the uses for contrast filters is to accentuate textures, because these contain blue details. It's not always about the sky itself.
 
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CMoore

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I think i am a Non-Filter guy...but to be honest, i did not have a #6, just a #8.
I am thinking the #6 would have had less effect.?
I basically shot Two Rolls of 36 frames. The first 28 were with just a Haze Filter. The remaining 44 frames were with the #8 filter (no haze filter).
I think, over-all, for most of the pictures and especially in the shadows areas as mentioned by some of the members.....i like the look with no filter.
I think For Me, doing "Street Photography" in Decent/Strong sunlight, i will be best served by a UV Filter, and a Lens Hood with the tightest snoot that the lens will allow, before it starts to show any kind of vignetting.
Thanks For All The Replys
 

Arklatexian

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Tiffen states that a light yellow will give normal contrast w/b&w film, negating the blue that that b&w is overly sensitive to. Medium yellow, which I always thought was for normal contrast gives a stonger effect, bringing out clouds more. I'm in the process of buying ALL the light yellow filters in ALL the sizes I need and using them as my normal filter.
The Great Yellow Father in Rochester, in the past, told us that a yellow filter (like a Written K2) was needed to give the "correct monochromatic rendition" of a scene using their panchromatic B&W films. Kodak AND Tiffen . Do you think they know/knew something?................Regards to all!
 

MattKing

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The Great Yellow Father in Rochester, in the past, told us that a yellow filter (like a Written K2) was needed to give the "correct monochromatic rendition" of a scene using their panchromatic B&W films. Kodak AND Tiffen . Do you think they know/knew something?................Regards to all!
From the Kodak datasheet for T-Max 400:
"* The blue sensitivity of KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films is slightly less than that of other Kodak panchromatic black-and-white films. This enables the response of this film to be closer to the response of the human eye. Therefore, blues may be recorded as slightly darker tones with this film—a more natural rendition."
 

chip j

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The Great Yellow Father in Rochester, in the past, told us that a yellow filter (like a Written K2) was needed to give the "correct monochromatic rendition" of a scene using their panchromatic B&W films. Kodak AND Tiffen . Do you think they know/knew something?................Regards to all!
It seems Kodak & Tiffen know different things.
 

pbromaghin

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It is a valid question. Skin tones will obey the same rules as anything else. Take a look at the Yusuf Kharsh (sp?) portrait of Hemingway for instance, those tones were from orthochromatic film but the same can be done with filters.

I remember seeing a story about an early 20th century local NY photographer in an Italian neighborhood who used a red filter on all his child portraits to lighten their skin. He made a pile of money because it made the kids look "American".
 
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