Light meter issue on Yashica TL Electro-X?

[Army35mm]

I recently scored a pristine looking TL Electro-X from a Goodwill for like $8 USD. I am loving shooting it, but It's consistently telling me on cloudy days in sunlight that I need to have my shutter knocked down to about 1/15, and my aperture is rarely being allowed to be adjusted above 5.6 on sunny days.
What could cause this? when I got the camera the mirror was filthy and it took a few cleaning sessions to get it to come clear, could the light meter be dirty itself? If so, where do I find this in order to clean it?

 

[elcabezagrande]

Try rotating the shutter speed dial setting dial through its full range rapidly several dozen times. There are brush-type contacts that are part of the speed dial mechanism that can become tarnished with disuse, this should clean them up enough to work.

 

[shutterfinger]

How is the image through the viewfinder, clear or dim?
Are the battery contacts clean?

 

[Army35mm]

lights in the viewfinder are bright, image is unaffected on the yashica TL electro x until the shutter is activated, or the lever is pressed to test light. This camera is completely manual, the light metering is strictly to let me know what to adjust.

 

[Army35mm]

battery contacts are also pristine.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

The problem may be related to "The Pad of Death". You need Yashica Guy:


http://www.yashica-guy.com/

 

[shutterfinger]

My first 35mm slr was a Yashica TL Electro. The pc socket wire came off and it would run the battery down quickly. I was unsuccessful at disassembling it, repairing the socket and reassembly so I parted it out. The screws and springs have fixed a lot of other cameras. I still have the body shell and possibly the pentaprism.
A google search for a repair manual turned up this for your camera
http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/camaras/Yashica Tl-Electro-X .pdf

Good luck.

 

[Army35mm]

The problem may be related to "The Pad of Death". You need Yashica Guy:


http://www.yashica-guy.com/

everything I can see relating to the pad of death is specifically for the rangefinders, does the TL Electro X make the clunk noise too? Everything on this camera seems normal in comparison to my other SLR, nothing sounds extraordinarily abnormal really.

 

[Army35mm]

My first 35mm slr was a Yashica TL Electro. The pc socket wire came off and it would run the battery down quickly. I was unsuccessful at disassembling it, repairing the socket and reassembly so I parted it out. The screws and springs have fixed a lot of other cameras. I still have the body shell and possibly the pentaprism.
A google search for a repair manual turned up this for your camera
http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/camaras/Yashica Tl-Electro-X .pdf

Good luck.

thanks! On my way to korea today, so when i arrive and get settled in, I might have it serviced somewhere.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

everything I can see relating to the pad of death is specifically for the rangefinders ...

Sorry - my mistake.

 

[Steve Roberts]

Just a thought - I have no experience of the TL Electro X but have had two TL Electros (no X). The TL Electro changed its battery requirement part way through its life. Though physically the two types were the same, IIRC they were different voltages. If that applies to the X version is it possible that you have the wrong battery fitted?
Steve

 

[elcabezagrande]

Just a thought - I have no experience of the TL Electro X but have had two TL Electros (no X). The TL Electro changed its battery requirement part way through its life. Though physically the two types were the same, IIRC they were different voltages. If that applies to the X version is it possible that you have the wrong battery fitted?
Steve

The TL Electro X used the same battery throughout its run, and is still a common battery today.

 

[elcabezagrande]

Will the camera fire at speeds slower than the 1/500 default speed?

 

[Army35mm]

The camera fires fine on all speeds with the battery in. The camera is locked to 1/1000 without battery power. I'm using a dx-18, which is equivilant to the LR44 or PX28 battery that was originally required.