Like I was saying though, I was hoping for a proper meter rather than resorting to a calculator/wheel. I just noted a post though from another member about an app that goes all the way up to f512 so that may end up being what I resort to unless I can find a meter.I have tables printed on to cards that have columns for the recommended exposure for f/22, the resulting exposure for my pinole (f/207) and the necessary in field exposure (to take into account reciprocity failure). The tables were generated in a pinhole related Windows program.
I cannot recommend this more highly: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pinhole-assist/id466757473?mt=8
Do you think it would benefit from the "lumi" lumisphere add on? I have to say, that app looks amazing from the screenshots on the website.I cannot recommend this more highly: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pinhole-assist/id466757473?mt=8
Do you think it would benefit from the "lumi" lumisphere add on? I have to say, that app looks amazing from the screenshots on the website.
Hehehe. Your signature line is pretty funny!This email is a natural hand-made product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and in no way are to be considered flaws.
That's great to hear! I've been mulling over getting a pinhole camera for a while now but being new to it I didn't want to add additional complexity to my first experience with it. I'll download that app and give 'er a try. Now to just finally decide on which pinhole camera....I've been using the Pinhole Assist app since 2012 and have never found it lacking in any way. I've never felt a need to purchase the Lumi add-on - the onboard camera does an excellent job as is.
That's great to hear! I've been mulling over getting a pinhole camera for a while now but being new to it I didn't want to add additional complexity to my first experience with it. I'll download that app and give 'er a try. Now to just finally decide on which pinhole camera....
Hehehe. Your signature line is pretty funny!
It isn't a calculator or wheel. It is just a little card, and is specific to one film and one pinhole.Like I was saying though, I was hoping for a proper meter rather than resorting to a calculator/wheel. I just noted a post though from another member about an app that goes all the way up to f512 so that may end up being what I resort to unless I can find a meter.
I've often suggested a folding chair as part of one's pinhole kit.Matt, that last row is particularly useful.
My calotypes are about ISO 0.006. It tells me my exposure should be 6129.04 years. I'd better start soon.
( If we use a regular commercial photopaper negative, we can cut this down to a quick 6 years! )
I've often suggested a folding chair as part of one's pinhole kit.
such as X-ray film.
.
Hmmmm..... I wonder if my Pentax LX, TTL off the film metering to ... hours ... might automate the process. I might have to sacrifice a body cap!
It isn't a calculator or wheel. It is just a little card, and is specific to one film and one pinhole.
I take a reading for f/22 - my meter gives me a time.
Here is the card, as supplied by the pinhole "manufacturer (it is for FP4):
View attachment 188146
Yeah, they don't commit to regular photography! I have been using 8x10 Fuji HR-T in a camera I built. If you search these forums you are likely to find recommendations from about ISO 50 to ISO 400 for that. I find the lower end does better for me. The stuff (and probably others) tends toward very high contrast, so taming that can be a challenge. I've been shooting it around ISO 50 and developing in HC110 1+63 ("Dilution H") on my last couple go-rounds. I used developing times down in the 3 to 4 minute range, even at that dilution; the X-ray stuff comes up fast, almost like paper prints. The double-sided emulsion adds another hazard, but I have found developing in Cesco smooth bottom trays works well. The Fuji stuff is green sensitive and wants a dark red (Kodak #2) safelight -- even red LED bulbs have not worked for me.I happen to have access to both xray film(8x12) and an x-ray film processor/developer (which I use to develop my black and white film). They don't post any iso information on the film box but does say to use safelight 8u. I always wondered what it's iso might be. Very expensive to just try and figure out with no starting point though which is why I never gave it a try.
So how does the double sided emulsion affect your photos? Just curious. Is it more difficult to print/enlarge, or to scan? Or are you worried more about scratching the emulsion? I'm just wondering because when these films are used for their intended purpose and developed as designed the emulsion itself is quite difficult to damage. I've been thinking about using it cut down in a pinhole camera and then processing it at work. one 8x12 sheet should get me four 4x5 photos (coincidentally filling two toyo film holders just perfectly).Yeah, they don't commit to regular photography! I have been using 8x10 Fuji HR-T in a camera I built. If you search these forums you are likely to find recommendations from about ISO 50 to ISO 400 for that. I find the lower end does better for me. The stuff (and probably others) tends toward very high contrast, so taming that can be a challenge. I've been shooting it around ISO 50 and developing in HC110 1+63 ("Dilution H") on my last couple go-rounds. I used developing times down in the 3 to 4 minute range, even at that dilution; the X-ray stuff comes up fast, almost like paper prints. The double-sided emulsion adds another hazard, but I have found developing in Cesco smooth bottom trays works well. The Fuji stuff is green sensitive and wants a dark red (Kodak #2) safelight -- even red LED bulbs have not worked for me.
Some Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day that finds me with surplus cash, mayhaps I'll buy some "real film" and try it. But I've noted a conspiracy: sellers of film that costs less per sheet tend to package it in larger packages, so no matter what, one has to lay out an alarming amount of money to get started. The aforementioned Fuji X-ray stuff was about $43US shipped for 100 sheets when I bought it and something like 25 sheets of FP-4 is currently $110 at B&H. You can get fifty sheets of some lesser brands for $130 to $160 or so (or pay $104 for TEN sheets of TMY!)
I don't know what film those were for, in general the table looks suspiciously like the output from the Pinhole Designer utility I mentioned upthread. In that case, the built-in adjustments could be suspect as outdated. One of my early pinhole outings used a 120 roll of Delta 100 and I was left with the impression that the published reciprocity data was maybe a little excessive. There were too many variables in the overall project to point fingers at one parameter, but I believe just recently Ilford has released some updates on their reciprocity info. For the tables I've carried in the field I have generally chopped them off beyond an hour of adjusted exposure. (It's too hard to carry a folding chair along with all the other stuff.Wow! Those exposures on the card from 2 seconds upwards can't be right surely? I've used FP4 in a 35mm TTL Pentax with a lasered pinhole and the exposures were always in the ball park of a few seconds...?...
Terry S
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