Just curious, maybe it’s because I tinker with things that they work for me. Did you take any apart? I usually find loose screws. And sometimes bits of metal on the magnet keep the needle from swinging.I would not use ANY vintage meter. Most Westons are no longer accurate. I've handled over a hundred of them and only one worked reasonably well
Just curious, maybe it’s because I tinker with things that they work for me. Did you take any apart? I usually find loose screws. And sometimes bits of metal on the magnet keep the needle from swinging.
Never saw that one.
I would not use ANY vintage meter. Most Westons are no longer accurate. I've handled over a hundred of them and only one worked reasonably well. I have a Master V that was overhauled with a new meter cell and it works great, but it cost me a lot of money. I have never seen a Norwood meter that was not in terrible condition with a severely yellowed incident dome. GE Meters were primitive designs that were not that great when new 60 yrs ago, and are worse today.
If you're doing black and white film, a spotmeter is best if you know the Zone System. I recommend a Minolta Spotmeter F, as they're very accurate, compact, reliable, and relatively inexpensive. The Pentax Spotmeter V is good too, but is large and heavy and delicate. A good one only costs about $100 used though! The Pentax digital spotmeter is good, too but is horribly overpriced because Ansel Adams used them and everyone thinks its 'the best.' It isn't, but it is very good.
If you're shooting slide film, a good incident meter is better. Minolta Autometer IVF can be bought for $120, and is one of the best. Minolta's Flash Meter IV is great, too, but most were used professionally and many of them are beat up badly and overpriced.
Hi everyone, I'm looking for a recommendation on a good, reasonably affordable light meter. ... Can someone point me towards a good meter for landscape/travel photography?
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