Light Meter advice needed.

[Alan Edward Klein]

Alan, Why complicate things? A light meter of any kind is a relatively simple device, designed for a particular task. Any of them do it more than adequately. Among others, i have the tiny digisix.....& would have much preferred an on/off switch to the time, clock, temperature, alarm functions. I'm skeptical enough about the concept of owning a digital camera to take a light reading for an analog photograph.

I got the idea from Alex Burke. https://www.alexburkephoto.com/

I use the Olympus micro 4/3 digital camera first as a director's viewfinder to find the film shooting location and lens I want to use before setting my large format tripod and equipment in place. I can see the view in BW if I'm shooting BW film or color if shooting color. Extending it's use as a meter seems logical.

The DIgisix is an ambient light meter. My digital camera acts like a reflective meter with spot, matrix and center measurements. I had the camera so it didn't cost me anything. It's not larger than a stand-alone spot meter. Plus I can record the view and settings as a setting note taker and see the image to compare against the film results later. Sometimes I switch on the video and record my notes and circumstances about the film shot I'm taking. Avoids having to write anything down.

 

[GregY]

Well Alan, it works for you.....you're very hybrid & modern.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If you're shooting chromes, you could blow out the sky. Check the sky also and if too many stops difference, you may have to add a GND filter.

NO especially if you are shooting slides do not meter the sky EVER, let the sky land where it falls. Only 50 years of shooting slides went into this post. Besides Ektachrome gives us the blue skies we remember, not necessarily as they were.

 

[Chan Tran]

I got the idea from Alex Burke. https://www.alexburkephoto.com/

I use the Olympus micro 4/3 digital camera first as a director's viewfinder to find the film shooting location and lens I want to use before setting my large format tripod and equipment in place. I can see the view in BW if I'm shooting BW film or color if shooting color. Extending it's use as a meter seems logical.

The DIgisix is an ambient light meter. My digital camera acts like a reflective meter with spot, matrix and center measurements. I had the camera so it didn't cost me anything. It's not larger than a stand-alone spot meter. Plus I can record the view and settings as a setting note taker and see the image to compare against the film results later. Sometimes I switch on the video and record my notes and circumstances about the film shot I'm taking. Avoids having to write anything down.

I am with you on this. Perhaps they can build a meter that is really just a digital camera but the film curves characteristic is can be programmed in the meter so the meter viewfinder can show and image that is very close to that of what captured on film.

 

[GregY]

I am with you on this. Perhaps they can build a meter that is really just a digital camera but the film curves characteristic is can be programmed in the meter so the meter viewfinder can show and image that is very close to that of what captured on film.

Yea, not really "100% analog workflow"
You know Fuji makes a GFX50.......

 

[KerrKid]

I forgot to mention that I have the PRO version of myLightMeter. Wow. Pro mode is really informative and offers so much more information and so many more abilities than an old handheld like the Vivitar 45 ever could. I think the cost of the app was just $3.99. It seems like a no-brainer to use it until I step up to a Digisix or the Voigtlander.

 

[Paul Howell]

I use my Sigma SA 9 and 10 along with a Pentax K2000 for many years as a light meter with good results. Normally when shooting landscapes I shoot with a DSLR along with MF or LF gear. If I am not shooting zone I use one of the above in matrix metering mode, or in spot mode with a telephoto to get down to around 3 to 1 % angle of view of a normal lens. The Sigma SA 9 and 10 has the same meter as the Sigma SA 7 and 9, so it is calibrated for film. My Pentax K2000 in average mode matches my Gossen hand held meter. I even put a white plastic cup over the lens of the Sigma with a 50mm lens and it matched the incident reading of my incident meter. The little Pentax is not much larger than my Soligar spot meter.

 

[xkaes]

Ektachrome gives us the blue skies we remember, not necessarily as they were.

That's KODACHROME!!!

 

[Sirius Glass]

That's KODACHROME!!!

No Ektachrome. There was a time that Kodakchome in the late 1960's gave muddy skies.

 

[madNbad]

I forgot to mention that I have the PRO version of myLightMeter. Wow. Pro mode is really informative and offers so much more information and so many more abilities than an old handheld like the Vivitar 45 ever could. I think the cost of the app was just $3.99. It seems like a no-brainer to use it until I step up to a Digisix or the Voigtlander.

I like the five presets for different lenses on the Pro version. It has settings for focal length, minimum aperture, maximum shutter speed and format. The latest version even offers a setting for Daguerrotype photography.

 

[KerrKid]

I like the five presets for different lenses on the Pro version. It has settings for focal length, minimum aperture, maximum shutter speed and format. The latest version even offers a setting for Daguerrotype photography.

Yep, that's it. I think it would be a great learning tool since changing those settings causes the other ones to change.

I've got a big problem with it, though.

I put 58mm, f1.4, and 35mm in the app for the first preset and measured an object. Then I measured the same object at the same distance with my SRT-101 with the 58mm lens and my Nikon D200 lens set at 55mm. Both of those cameras metered the object at 1/125th at f8. The myLightMeter app metered the object at 1/500th at f16. Huh? ISO was set at 400 for the SRT and app and Auto ISO on the D200. I find it hard to believe that my SRT and D200 are off. What the heck. Is there something I'm doing wrong with the app or is my phone not playing nice with it?

 

[wiltw]

Yep, that's it. I think it would be a great learning tool since changing those settings causes the other ones to change.

I've got a big problem with it, though.

I put 58mm, f1.4, and 35mm in the app for the first preset and measured an object. Then I measured the same object at the same distance with my SRT-101 with the 58mm lens and my Nikon D200 lens set at 55mm. Both of those cameras metered the object at 1/125th at f8. The myLightMeter app metered the object at 1/500th at f16. Huh? ISO was set at 400 for the SRT and app and Auto ISO on the D200. I find it hard to believe that my SRT and D200 are off. What the heck. Is there something I'm doing wrong with the app or is my phone not playing nice with it?

First, measure a UNFORMLY illuminated, UNFORMLY colored wall with all three meters.
angle of acceptance is removed as a consideration when such a metering target is used. The result of metering that featureless target area with all 3 meters will give you an idea of any separation of reading (or agreement of reading) between the 3 meters.

 

[KerrKid]

First, measure a UNFORMLY illuminated, UNFORMLY colored wall with all three meters.
angle of acceptance is removed as a consideration when such a metering target is used. The result of metering that featureless target area with all 3 meters will give you an idea of any separation of reading (or agreement of reading) between the 3 meters.

OK. I'll try that.

 

[xkaes]

You can make metering as complicated as you want. It's completely up to you -- like many things in life.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I like the Sekonic L308 because it has reflectance and incident readings in f/stops and EVs. I use a Pentax Digital Spot Meter for stop meter readings.

 

[KerrKid]

You can make metering as complicated as you want. It's completely up to you -- like many things in life.

Good point. I prefer simplicity about 100% of the time. Like an Auto S2 rangefinder. I'll give the iPhone app another try and if that doesn't work I'll probably just get the Vivitar 45 and be happy with it.

 

[grat]

No Ektachrome. There was a time that Kodakchome in the late 1960's gave muddy skies.

Blasphemer.

Although I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to be aware of where the sky falls in the range of the photograph-- maybe not meter it for the exposure, but meter it to see if a GND would be useful.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

NO especially if you are shooting slides do not meter the sky EVER, let the sky land where it falls. Only 50 years of shooting slides went into this post. Besides Ektachrome gives us the blue skies we remember, not necessarily as they were.

You copied my comment but apparently didn't read it.

My Post Quote: "If you're shooting chromes, you could blow out the sky. Check the sky also and if too many stops difference, you may have to add a GND filter.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I use my Sigma SA 9 and 10 along with a Pentax K2000 for many years as a light meter with good results. Normally when shooting landscapes I shoot with a DSLR along with MF or LF gear. If I am not shooting zone I use one of the above in matrix metering mode, or in spot mode with a telephoto to get down to around 3 to 1 % angle of view of a normal lens. The Sigma SA 9 and 10 has the same meter as the Sigma SA 7 and 9, so it is calibrated for film. My Pentax K2000 in average mode matches my Gossen hand held meter. I even put a white plastic cup over the lens of the Sigma with a 50mm lens and it matched the incident reading of my incident meter. The little Pentax is not much larger than my Soligar spot meter.

Basically I;m doing the same, Paul. The problem I foresee is that the range of stops is different for a digital camera vs the film if shooting in center average or matrix metering mode. So while the digital camera gives me an "average" starting point for the exposure, will I clip on the film? So what I;ve done, is after finding the "right" view on the digital camera, I reduce the exposure by half a stop when shooting chromes to prevent clipping on the high side.

Have you noticed any issues when using matrix metering along this line?

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

I like the five presets for different lenses on the Pro version. It has settings for focal length, minimum aperture, maximum shutter speed and format. The latest version even offers a setting for Daguerrotype photography.

I don't understand the 5 lens presents. Could you expand?

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

You copied my comment but apparently didn't read it.

My Post Quote: "If you're shooting chromes, you could blow out the sky. Check the sky also and if too many stops difference, you may have to add a GND filter.

NO especially if you are shooting slides do not meter the sky EVER, let the sky land where it falls. Only 50 years of shooting slides went into this post. Besides Ektachrome gives us the blue skies we remember, not necessarily as they were.

You copied my comment but apparently didn't read it.

My Post Quote: "If you're shooting chromes, you could blow out the sky. Check the sky also and if too many stops difference, you may have to add a GND filter.

Actually, if I wasn't using a GND filter, my choice would be to expose for the sky and let the darker areas fall to dark even silhouette rather than letting the sky get washed out by exposing for the ground. A picture is ruined if you let the sky blow out. Better off eliminating the sky totally.

Here is exposed for the sky using Velvia 50 chrome. Exposing for the ground would never work.
Chestnut Point, Manasquan Reservoir by Alan Klein, on Flickr

 

[guangong]

B&H sells the Sekonic L-208 Twin Mate for $129 here . It measures both incident and reflected, and has positive feedback. It measures down to EV 3, so it'll work indoors. It uses a common lithium button cell. @guangong, is this the same Twin Mate model you referred to in posting #5? Can you tell us more about it?

Mark

Same meter. I prefer match needle to digital readouts, although I also like the Digisix’ small size. I usually keep one of these in my carry everywhere bag where a meter gets sporadic use. To many times the batteries died in Digisix. Also, since the death of Polaroid P/N film, I no longer need to know ambient temperature. Perhaps my failing mental capacities, but I find changing ISO an annoyance using Digisix. No the less, it’s a fine smalol easy to carry meter.

 

[xkaes]

I definitely prefer a meter with scales as opposed to a digital readout that only shows one f-stop & speed at a time. With scales I can instantly move up or down -- apertures or speeds -- to see what options I have.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Same meter. I prefer match needle to digital readouts, although I also like the Digisix’ small size. I usually keep one of these in my carry everywhere bag where a meter gets sporadic use. To many times the batteries died in Digisix. Also, since the death of Polaroid P/N film, I no longer need to know ambient temperature. Perhaps my failing mental capacities, but I find changing ISO an annoyance using Digisix. No the less, it’s a fine smalol easy to carry meter.

I have a digital Minolta IIIf Autometer. It only shows one reading at a time and you have to hit a button to move the readings to select another setting. The problem is this meter is shutter priority. So you'll get digital percentages of apertures like f/8.7. There's no selection to make it an aperture priority. I suppose that makes sense because, with old film cameras, you can't get shutter settings other than at full stops. The more modern digital meters allow you to set aperture priority as well.

 

[GregY]

Both the Digisix & the Pentax Digital Spotmeter for example, give the EV#...& both have calculator dials that show shutter speed/ aperture...... you have the entire range at your fingertips