LF on a Budget!

[Jerevan]

More exactly this thread: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Why not try a WTB in the Classifieds, if you haven't already done that?

 

[DBP]

OK, at the risk of posting something on topic, you might want to consider a Sverdlovsk 4. It's a compact little thing that is sort of a spot meter with an incident mode too and seems to be going for under $50.

 

[pdjr1991]

More exactly this thread: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Why not try a WTB in the Classifieds, if you haven't already done that?

im not a subscriber and i do not know what i even "want to buy" . Its what i need help for.

 

[pdjr1991]

OK, at the risk of posting something on topic, you might want to consider a Sverdlovsk 4. It's a compact little thing that is sort of a spot meter with an incident mode too and seems to be going for under $50.

Thanks! have you had any experiences with them? I only found one on ebay for the us. Im always sketchy about buying stuff outta country.

 

[Jerevan]

I missed out on you not being able to use the Classifieds. My apologies.

 

[premo]

So, pdjr, have you been shooting yet? I think it is important to start shooting in whatever sheet film category you already have---rather than fall into gadgetitus, and putting off shooting and developing the film of your choice!

 

[totalamateur]

As for on a budget, here's what I do when I need to scratch an itch and don't have the cash:
1. Get a 50 pack of Ortho from freestyle, the mid size botle of Arista fixer and Rodinol, which is the cheapest film/dev/fix combo I've found.
2. get a peice of aluminum foil
3. poke a hole in it
4. tape it over my lensless lens board with hole in it.
5. Shoot pinholes @ ASA 1 using a sunny 16ish rule. I find 30 seconds on sunny days a good place to start, but YMMV. with cheap film comes easy experimentation.
6. Develop by inspection under a red light. My redlight is a $5 red LED headlamp from the local sporting goods store.

To make 1L of dev and 1L of fix is less than $2, and the film is less than a quarter a sheet. If there's a cheaper way, I haven't found it. This gets you in the dark room in fast and cheap- spot meters, lenses, Tri-X, accufine, Pyro, and all that other stuff can be acquired as opportunity and $$ arise.

BTW, my first LF lens was a 170mm F7.7 Kodak in a ball bearing shutter made in 1919. $10 on fleabay. Old lenses work great, especially if you are shooting ortho! It did not fit my lens board at all, but a little stiff carboard and some more tape (a roll of gaffer's tape is a good $6 photo purchase as well) worked fine to get it on the board, albeit a little wobbly.

 

[M.A.Longmore]

a roll of gaffer's tape is a good $6 photo purchase as well) worked fine to get it on the board, albeit a little wobbly.

.
You Are My Hero !
That's excellent advice, not just the gaffers tape.
Many of us could benefit from Minimalism,
even if it's just occasionally.


Ron
.

 

[okto]

Another twentysomething photog on a shoestring budget here. ^_^

x2 on the Tiltall. I found a black secondhand one that's a tank. A Crown Graphic with lens and Polaroid back doesn't unbalance it in the least.

For light meters, check out a used Gossen Lunasix/Luna Pro. Meters down to starlight, easy to use, wide range of accesories available used for cheap. Try to get the black-bodied one, not the gray-bodied one. The gray one was designed for mercury batteries, which means you're going to be feeding it costy zinc-air hearing aid batteries every two months.

 

[michaelbsc]

Can't remember if someone has posted this about light meters in this thread or not. If so, here it is again, and if not, here it is.

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

 

[landscapepics]

I bought a Weston Master exposure meter recently on eBay for £20, you might want to consider that option.

 

[premo]

I LUVS mah weston mastuh! S_O_O_O e-z to use!

 

[M.A.Longmore]

For light meters, check out a used Gossen Lunasix/Luna Pro. Meters down to starlight, easy to use, wide range of accesories available used for cheap. Try to get the black-bodied one, not the gray-bodied one. The gray one was designed for mercury batteries, which means you're going to be feeding it costy zinc-air hearing aid batteries every two months.

.
I got a " broken " Grey Bodied, LunaPro for $8.00 on eBay.
And a Six Pack of Zinc-Air Cells for $6.00, I was warned that the Z-A's have
a short lifespan. But it's been three months and they are still holding steady.
I can't complain as yet, and I was told that CostCo has a 30 pack for $10.00.

Premo, when you come to visit me, you can teach me how to my
Weston Master II, I got one for $3.00, but I'm not feeling The Love ...


Ron
.

 

[premo]

I figured someone would pick on the dialect, not my choice of light meters. What don't you like about it?

 

[M.A.Longmore]

I figured someone would pick on the dialect, not my choice of light meters. What don't you like about it?

.
It's Not Easy To Use ...

 

[premo]

I like it because it's easy to read off the zones. For example, If you read the highest light the meter puts it at neutrel gray, you simply read up the circular scale to the overexposure you need to put the highlights where you want them. For me, I read the shadows the same way (neutral gray), then put the arrow on 2 or 3 stops underexposed and read exposure. This puts the shadows at zone 2 or 3 (as the scene calls for) then I control the highlights during developement.

 

[M.A.Longmore]

I like it because it's easy to read off the zones. For example, If you read the highest light the meter puts it at neutrel gray, you simply read up the circular scale to the overexposure you need to put the highlights where you want them. For me, I read the shadows the same way (neutral gray), then put the arrow on 2 or 3 stops underexposed and read exposure. This puts the shadows at zone 2 or 3 (as the scene calls for) then I control the highlights during developement.

.
OK Terrific !

Thanks Premo.


Ron
.

 

[premo]

I hope this helps you, but if you have any problems, just pm me.

 

[djacobox372]

I bought a used bogen 3050 tripod for my speed, and it's fantastic. Very heavy duty, around 15lbs, and very versatile.

It cost me around $200 on ebay and came with a basic tilt head.

 

[domaz]

I bought a used bogen 3050 tripod for my speed, and it's fantastic. Very heavy duty, around 15lbs, and very versatile.

It cost me around $200 on ebay and came with a basic tilt head.

You can get a carbon fiber Feisol tripod for about $200 as well. My Feisol can handle up to 20 lbs of load and is about 4 pounds instead of 15. If you don't have a really heavy LF camera I think this is the better option.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You can get a carbon fiber Feisol tripod for about $200 as well. My Feisol can handle up to 20 lbs of load and is about 4 pounds instead of 15. If you don't have a really heavy LF camera I think this is the better option.

But carrying a backpack holding a Hasselblad with four lenses and lugging heavy tripod into the Sierra Nevadas is part of my fitness program!

Steve

 

[pdjr1991]

Back again after a long hiatus! I must keep up this time around, college life has been busy with two jobs and the stress.

First i would like to apologize for reviving an old thread but it's still relevant.

Second, i plan on using my LF stuff alot this semester unlike the last two

Third, thanks for all the help and support.

What i have!!!
Still have my lovely Cambo SCII and Graphic Crown, many many many film holders. I havn't really tested if the lens speed is well, up to speed but i think i will do that when i get back.
I have a Omega D3 (i think or its a d2).

What i need!
Still need a good tripod but now that i thought about it i would like an old style one where i can move the legs. What are your thoughts on a good one thatll allow me to work with the nice light Graphics and the heavy Cambo.
Still believe i need a light meter. Alot of people recommended use of a slr or dslr but for me that wont cut it, i want accuracy. Please recommend a good meter and list its pros, cons, use, ect.
I have some cheap arista film for practice, but i want to switch to the fuji film. anybody have any experience with it?
I would like to go with a developing tank rather than trays. Any recommendations? any arguments for not using a tank?

Thanks in advance, i may have questions later!

 

[pdjr1991]

Another twentysomething photog on a shoestring budget here. ^_^

x2 on the Tiltall. I found a black secondhand one that's a tank. A Crown Graphic with lens and Polaroid back doesn't unbalance it in the least.

For light meters, check out a used Gossen Lunasix/Luna Pro. Meters down to starlight, easy to use, wide range of accesories available used for cheap. Try to get the black-bodied one, not the gray-bodied one. The gray one was designed for mercury batteries, which means you're going to be feeding it costy zinc-air hearing aid batteries every two months.

im 20 now! luckily my budget has expanded a little bit! i can afford a nice thing or two after each semester.

 

[pdjr1991]

But carrying a backpack holding a Hasselblad with four lenses and lugging heavy tripod into the Sierra Nevadas is part of my fitness program!

Steve

This guys a boss! I huff at a little stroll on campus with my gear, this gentleman hiking!

 

[pdjr1991]

So, pdjr, have you been shooting yet? I think it is important to start shooting in whatever sheet film category you already have---rather than fall into gadgetitus, and putting off shooting and developing the film of your choice!

Sadly i havn't, it is my new years eve goal this year. I chumped it up to starting college, moving away from home, and not having a license but their all excuses. Expect me to become a subscriber and post pictures so i can get some feedback.