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Joe O'Brien

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Tim,

I do tend to do mostly landscape work, but I also do some portrait stuff as well. Is the Speed G. still a good choice movement-wise?

Joe
 

k_jupiter

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Tim,

I do tend to do mostly landscape work, but I also do some portrait stuff as well. Is the Speed G. still a good choice movement-wise?

Joe

Others are better off answering this, my portraiture is pretty simple and straight forward. How many movements do you need to get both the eyes and the nose in focus? A Speed with a 210 would probably be a great set up. I usually use my rb67 with 127mm or 150 SF lens when I do portraits. LF I keep for mostly landscapes. Macro work I'll do with either one, the setup is easier with LF, the exposure calcs are easier with MF.

Once again, JMHO

tim in san jose (pictured with the best things in life)
 

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jp498

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A speed graphic will be fine for basic landscape and portraiture. The speed graphic has the up movement to correct perspective. Anniversary and better graphics have front tilt. As far as getting the eyes AND nose in focus, you need f-stops more than movements. It's the crazy stuff like odd planes of focus that would require a highly adjustable camera. If you are coming from 35mm or digital, you won't be doing it likely because you didn't know it was possible.
 
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Joe O'Brien

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Thanks Jupiter! I suppose I can keep working with my Bronica for my portraits.

jp498, I'd really like the front tilt because in MF I often had to stop down to f/22 which left me with exposure times that resulted in blur from foliage movement.

EDIT:

I just did some research and I really like the Super Graphic, any ideas on where to look for one of these? and/or a Fuji "W" 150mm?
 
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John Kasaian

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Try Midwest Photo. Jim is a great guy to deal with.
BTW on the graflex.org site there is an article about a landscape photographer in Italy who shoots a Superspeed.
 
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Joe O'Brien

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I couldn't find a Super Graphic, but I did find a Shen Hao HZX45 for $675, I did some research and I like what I'm seeing. Are there any hidden downsides to a Shen Hao? Or should I bide my time and wait for a Super Graphic?
 

Ian Grant

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The Toyo 45A is a Super Graphic, so you could look for one instead. Toyo bought the tooling.

The Super Graphics are very good cameras but they were years too late in their introduction.

Find someone near you who can show you what these cameras can do. Don't buy blind. I can't believe the over hyping of Speed & Crown Graphics, I have 3 so I speak objectively. I do use them regularly but ONLY when I'm restricted by tripod bans or want to work hand-held, but I often can't make images that would be easy with my Wista, or a Shen Hao etc. Remember the Graphics have Zero movements in Portrait mode.

Ian
 

removed account4

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Jnanian,

Would that trick with the darkslide work as well on a 4x5 if I was okay with a 2x5 panorama?

Joe

you sure can.
the suggestion of 5x7 is just in case ..
you realized that 4x5 isn't much smaller camera-wise
but the film / paper is more than 2x the size of a 4x5 ...

have fun !

john
 

Ole

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Have you considered a Linhof Technika?

Very solid, relatively heavy, and totally unbreakable.
My first LF camera was a 13x18cm Technika with 4x5" back. Traded it for one in worse shape but with a full 13x18 back (5x7").

Then I got a 4x5" Linhof Color - a simple monorail with limited movements, but a great little camera. Not much heavier than the 4x5" technika, which in a way it is: Cut apart and mounted on a round tube.
 

RodKlukas

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Okay, thank you all for your prompt and informed responses. This was a lot of help!

Ian

If not a mono then what do you guys suggest I get for a camera? A field camera?
If a field camera than what should I go with? Would a wooden field camera be a bad idea because of its ability to warp?

John

I don't really intend to shoot 5x7, just stick with 4x5 for the forseeable future. Are there any backs that would allow me to shoot a panorama in 4x5? What are they called and about how much are they?

Pinholemaster

Thank you for the explanation of how to determine a "normal lens". If I got a 150mm lens that covered a 5x7 would it still be a 150mm lens on a 4x5 or is there a conversion factor? Also, Is this even applicable? I know you were saying that any modern lens would cover plenty of movements.

Thank you all again, this is extremely helpful and I think I've learned more from reading your posts then in my weeks of research. Thanks!

Joe

The best rail and most precise for field use is the Arca Swiss field. Superb build quality, wonderful screen and precision. A 150mm would be limited on 5x7 but would be ok for 4x5 although a 210mm(Like 100mm on hassy) would be excellent as it has great movement available and is an all around work horse.
See RodKlukas.com for some Arca info.
Thanks,
Rod
 

archer

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Dear Joe;
after reading this entire thread, I think you have received many good recommendations, however you might be a little puzzled by all the choices. My advice is to remember just what you want to do with the camera and then focus on the most versatile camera within the price range you have set for yourself. To that end may I recommend the Shen Hoa XPO 45A. I just bought one and it is truly remarkable. It is beautifully built, with all the movements you are likely to ever use and it is extremely rigid and precise and the most versatile camera at anything near 2 to 5 times it's price. The Graflock back allows the use of every available film holder you may want from roll film, panoramic roll film and of course sheet film holders. The camera is compatible with just about any front mounted Sinar accessory and with the standard bellows, allows the use of lenses from 72mm to 355mm with room to spare and a bag bellows is available for movements with wide angle lenses. To learn more about the camera and comparisons with most of the other makes mentioned in this thread I recommend a look at: https://www.badgergraphic.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=3420 Good luck with whatever you decide and best wishes.
Denise Libby
 

Two23

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Shen Hao's are relatively cheap and easy to find, look out on this forum and the LFPI as Wista's, Shen Hao's, Tahihara's etc often get listed at bargain prices, and there's always plenty of LF lenses.

Ian


I have a Shen Hao and really like it. It's compact, works very smoothly, and can be found used. I highly recommend.


Kent in SD
 
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I got started in LF by enrolling in a workshop at the New England School of Photography in Boston. I used a school monorail and received a lot of excellent advice. Perhaps the OP can find a workshop in his home area.
 

eddie

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My advice would be to look for a complete, used, inexpensive, kit. Find someone selling a camera (either field or mono) with a lens, or two, and a few holders. A darkcloth would be nice, too. You'll also need a good tripod.
My first 4x5 (about 30 years ago) was a Kodak Master View- a heavy metal monorail, that came with 2 lenses. It was a great camera to learn on. Later, as I determined my needs, I went to a field camera, and upgraded my lenses.
Just dive in... Buy lots of film... Shoot... Process... You won't know what you need, or don't need, until you start working.
 
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Joe O'Brien

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Thank you all for the great advice! I think I am going to find a used Shen Hao kit, and if I like that then I'll look to maybe get a Fuji "w" 150mm. This thread has been extremely helpful to me, Thanks again!

Joe
 

John Kasaian

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What Eddie said. If you're looking for the "perfect" camera you'll likely waste a lot of loot since it is nearly impossible to know what you want (or better, need) until you've spent some time just taking LF pictures. A "budget" camera, an honest lens and a lot of film will teach you what you need to know.
One overlooked point is that LF cameras are a bit of a pain to use---some LF cameras are more enjoyable to use than others but this is a purely personal thing. The point to consider is that if you truly enjoy your camera, you'll use it more. If it is a hassle to use, it will collect dust.
 

oldnick

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This is really nice thread while i have consider to learn and start working some 4x5 too, i can only print MF atm but i have flatbed scanner to scan 4x5.

Am i doing it backwards if i start from scanning or what?
 

eddie

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OldNick- You will be able to contact print the negs, until you get a 4x5 enlarger.
Joe- You should be able to get a complete kit for about $200. I started with a view camera, which helped me learn about movements, as it had more than a field camera. They may be a bit more difficult to work with, but you'll learn more from them. Here's an auction for the sort of thing I'd look for (not an endorsement of this particular kit- just an example of what you may want to look for):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ORBIT-4-x-5-VIE...=ViewItem&pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item27b32db6ac
 
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k_jupiter

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OldNick- You will be able to contact print the negs, until you get a 4x5 enlarger.
Joe- You should be able to get a complete kit for about $200. I started with a view camera, which helped me learn about movements, as it had more than a field camera. They may be a bit more difficult to work with, but you'll learn more from them. Here's an auction for the sort of thing I'd look for (not an endorsement of this particular kit- just an example of what you may want to look for):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ORBIT-4-x-5-VIE...=ViewItem&pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item27b32db6ac

And you think that is a better deal than a 5x7 Grover... for less money?

Y'all be cornfusing. Just understand, you ain't getting the Orbit for 125 bucks.

tim in san jose
 
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Joe O'Brien

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I'd be willing to try a 5x7, but unfortunately the school I'm going to can only facilitate 4x5 and smaller, maybe some day I'll move into 5x7 though k jupiter :smile:

Joe
 

eddie

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And you think that is a better deal than a 5x7 Grover... for less money?

Y'all be cornfusing. Just understand, you ain't getting the Orbit for 125 bucks.

tim in san jose

Tim- I wasn't saying it was a better deal. In fact, you never mentioned a price, so no one would know if your camera was a better deal.
My point was, good deals on complete kits can be found, usually at a lower price than assembling piece by piece. For someone new to 4x5, it's a good way to get into it, without a huge outlay of money. If LF doesn't appeal to the OP, he can probably recoup his investment.
 
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