LF lens list (borrowed from the ULF thread)

[Bandicoot]

Copying my reply from an earlier thread...

QUOTE

On Century Graphic Boards (Some of these also for use on my wooden 4x5 / 5x7 field camera when I finish restoring it):
65mm f8 Schneider Super-Angulon
90mm f6.8 Schneider Angulon
100mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar-S
150mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar-S
180mm f5.5 Schneider Tele-Xenar
240mm f5.5 Schneider Tele-Xenar

On Arca-Swiss Boards These get used variously on 6x9, 4x5, 5x7 (/13x18/half-plate) & 10x8 Arcas, and with 6x12 & 6x17 rollfilm backs:
38mm f4 Schneider Super-Angulon XL
47mm f5.6 Schneider Super-Angulon MC (I would love to replace this with an XL and then put this one into one of the Century boards - at the moment it gets switched back and forth)
65mm f5.6 Schneider Super-Angulon
65mm f8 Schneider Super-Angulon (another one, much smaller and lighter than the f5.6)
75mm f6.8 Rodenstock Grandagon
90mm f8 Schneider Super-Angulon
100mm f5.6 Rodenstock Sironar - N (for 6x9, but also covers 6x12, very sharp lens)
120mm f6.8 Schneider Angulon
150mm f4.5 Schneider Xenar (came with a camera and is too nice not to keep)
150mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar-S (another one)
150mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar (converts to 265mm)
159mm f12.5 Wollensack Anastigmat W.A. (extreme WA for 10x8)
210mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar (converts to 370mm)
240mm f9 Schneider G-Claron
270mm f5.5 Schneider Tele-Xenar (a long lens to use on the 6x9 monorails, which don't have the bellows otherwise)
300mm f5.6 Schneider Symmar (converts to 500mm)
420mm f9 Schneider Repro Claron

On Arca Boards, used for studio still-life and for macro:
35mm f4 Rodenstock Eurygon
75mm f4.5 Tomioka Tominon - Reverse Tessar
127mm f4.7 Rodenstock Ysaron (I like this much under-valued lens very much)
135mm f4.5 Tomioka Tominon - Tessar
150mm f9 Rodenstock Apo Ronar (another favourite)
180mm f5.6 Tomioka Tominon - Tessar (I don't know much about this apparently somewhat unusual lens, but it is nice on 6x12)
240mm f9 Schneider G-Claron (the same one as above, used as a wide on the 10x8, and in the studio for still-life)
420mm f9 Schneider Repro Claron (the same one as above, used as a long on the 8x10 [and smaller] and in the studio for still-life)

On boards for my Polaroid MP-3 copy/macro camera:
17mm f4 Tomioka Tominon - Symmetrical - 10-20x mag. on 4x5
35mm f4 Rodenstock Eurygon (another one) - 2-10x mag. on 4x5
50mm f4.5 Tomioka Tominon - 6 Element Symmetrical Triplet - 2-5x mag. on 4x5
75mm f4.5 Tomioka Tominon - Reverse Tessar (another one) - up to 4x mag. on 4x5
105mm f4.5 Tomioka Tominon - Tessar - up to 1.5x mag. on 4x5
127mm f4.7 Rodenstock Ysaron - Modified Tessar (another one) - up to 1:1 on 4x5
135mm f4.5 Tomioka Tominon - Tessar (another one) - up to 1:3 on 4x5

Odds and Ends:
75mm f1.9 Ilex Oscillo-Paragon
101mm f4.5 Kodak Ektar
105mm f3.5 Schneider Xenar (2)
128mm f6.8 Dr. Krugener Preminar
203mm f7.7 Kodak Ektar

Plus some cells and a couple of barrel lenses, sometimes used when demonstrating the building of a camera obscura to painters, might get more use if I ever get a Packard shutter or make up a suitable mount to put them on my miniature Speed Graphic.

As for the ones I still want... a 58 SA XL, 110 SS XL, a Macro-Symmar or Sironar, a longer tele lens to take into the field, something longer than my 420 to use on the 10x8, maybe an Imagon or similar. Probably some more if I think about it for long enough... Some of the above I could/should sell if I replaced them with any of these wish-list lenses.

Most of these do get used a fair amount, apart from the oddments.

UNQUOTE

Since then I've added the longer tele lens I wanted in the shape of a Schneider 360mm f5.5 Tele-Xenar.

I'm also looking at how incredibly cheap second hand enlarger lenses are becoming, and wondering about getting a few to upgrade from the Tominons I currently use for a lot of my macro work. Anyone got any thoughts on which of the El-Nikkors, Rokkor Es, Componons, Comparons, Rodagons, Wrays etc. etc. etc. are worth using this way?



Peter

 

[Vaughn]

For 4x5...Caltar II 150mm f5.6

For 5x7...Computar Symmatron 210mm f6.3 -- camera and lens stolen

For 8x10
159mm f12.5 Wollie
210mm f9? Wollie Graphic Raptor, I think, barrel
300mm f5.6 Fuji W
19" Red Dot Artar, barrel
600mm Apo Ronar CL -- just got it (barrel)...trying to figure how to get it on the camera...what a beast of a lens!

I have a couple more, but I don't use them...ebay buys that weren't as I expected.

Vaughn

 

[dpurdy]

In order of use..
4x5
210 nikkor 5.6
135 wide field ektar
90 5.6 super angulon
150 nikkor 5.6
8x10
14 inch red dot artar
210 gold dot dagor
305 g claron
450 f9 nikkor

 

[Murray@uptowngallery]

Cafeharrar:

All but one of my shutters have the 'old' speed sequence you mentioned. Some are weirdly inconsistent and mix old and new sequences.

I use EV for everything (spotmeter and GE handheld meter) and either memorize the aperture and shutter (time) components that add up to an EV value, or label the shutter.

1/50 is 1/3 stop slower than 1/60
1/100 is 1/3 stop slower than 1/125

For example, f/8 has 'aperture value' 6 and 1/125 has "time value" 7 for EV = 13

1/100 has time value 6.64, so I either move the aperture to some intermediate value or I remember how far off my shutter-in-need-of-CLA is.
So 1/100 and f/8 = 12.64 (close enuff to 1/3 stop off modern sequence).

Luckily, the camera I've been using lately is only about 1/3 stop slow.

If you're used to metering or just thinking in f-stops and shutter speeds you may prefer the slight offset method for simplicity.

Some shutters have erratic increments, making it worthwhile to relabel to avoid error if you're into EV. Once I figured it out I really liked it.

 

[colrehogan]

Does anyone have a link to the ULF version of this thread?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

The ULF thread petered out pretty quickly, and was sparse on detail.

 

[colrehogan]

The ULF thread petered out pretty quickly, and was sparse on detail.

I asked mostly so that if I had replied, I could revisit my reply.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Soeren]

Great thread but how about ading some info on the Image circle/ coverage?
I ask because I'm (still) looking for some kind of 5X7/13X18cm camera and would like to know which LF lenses I should go for when I see then.
Kind regards
Søren

 

[Nick Zentena]

Great thread but how about ading some info on the Image circle/ coverage?

Many of the lenses listed are modern with easily found numbers. The popular old ones aren't that hard either. You can even search on google groups and most common lenses have been discussed. Even many less common lenses are.

But image circle requirement is in part a function of what you are doing with the camera. What a person using a portrait lens will need is much less then some of the folks taking photos with lots of movements.

Any ways when it comes to 5x7 lenses aren't too hard to find. Avoid the 4x5 lenses that barely cover 4x5. Avoid the 4x5 telephoto lenses. You end up with basically everything 210mm and longer covering. Plus many of wide lenses 105mm and above.

The bigger issue is weight and filter size. Lenses like the Fuji W 150mm are nice because of the small size and small filters. This isn't too much of an issue with the 150mm but with something like the 300mm+ lenses weight and filters can be big issues.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

There's a very good set of image circle charts over on LFInfo (www.largeformatphotography.info). The charts cover many modern and classic lenses, but are by no means complete. If you happen upon some classic glass not listed there, take a look over at camera eccentric for more information. Also, many antique lenses will project a much larger circle of even illumination than they will project a circle of acceptable sharpness. For example, the 16" Kodak F4.5 Portrait lens - this lens was originally sold for doing portraits on 8x10. It has an image circle that will evenly illuminate 12x20, but the acceptably sharp area is not much larger than 8x10. Same with most Petzval type lenses - They project a much larger image circle than their stated size rating would suggest. It will also depend on if you are planning to contact print or to enlarge. Acceptably sharp for a contact print is a different animal than acceptably sharp for enlarging.

On my list, I've broken everything down by which format I use with it. With the possible exception of the 75mm f6.8, all those lenses will cover 5x7 or more.

 

[Ole]

One added to my list - http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270163596756 is a 178mm f:2.5 Aero-Ektar. The seller has 5 left, so if anyone is looking for one in Europe...

 

[dslater]

One added to my list - http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270163596756 is a 178mm f:2.5 Aero-Ektar. The seller has 5 left, so if anyone is looking for one in Europe...

Hi Ole,
that's an interesting lens - it's certainly fast. Can you give some info on the lens - what is it's intended use? does it cover 4x5? How is it wide open? I might be interested in one for 4x5 astrophotography.

Thanks,

Dan

 

[Ole]

It was made (as the name indicates) for aerial photography, and would then cover a 5x5" negative. The full aperture is f:2.5 but the transmission is usually lower due to browning of the radioactive lens elements. The colour centers can be "reset" by giving the lens a good dose of UV light.

They seem to be popular on speed graphics, which is my intended use too.

For examples shot with one of these, look up David Burnett.

 

[dslater]

O.K. - Here's my meager list

• Schneider 65mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon 170mm @f/22 105°
• Calumet Caltar II-N 90mm f/6.8 221mm @ f/22 105°
• Rodenstock APO-Sironar-S 135mm f/5.6 208mm @ f/22 75°
• Ilex Optical anastigmat paragon 180mm f/4.5 image circle and field of view unknown - if anyone knows I'd be interested
• Fujinon-C 300mm f/8.5 380mm @ f/22 66°

 

[P. Yee]

I am a relatively newcomer to large format, so my list is rather short-
-Rodenstock Sironar N 150mm f/5.6 210mm at f/22 (used for 4x5)
-Fujinon W 250mm F/6.7 398 at f/22 (used for 4x5 and 8x10)
-Fujinon L 420 F/8 480mm at f/22 (used for 8x10)

 

[roteague]

I am a relatively newcomer to large format, so my list is rather short-

Don't worry about it. I've been doing LF for more than 20 years, and I only have 4 lenses.

 

[mark]

I have
135 xenar
150 caltar
180/360 convertible schneider
210 geronar
240 g claron
300 symmar

None are being used right now

 

[Scott Peters]

G Claron 305mm, 12" dagor, 16 1/2" artar, 19" artar, 24" artar - all work well on 8x10 and 7x17. I usually start with the claron or dagor...and go from there.

 

[marbrog]

My growing collection so far:

4x5/9x12
75/8 Super-Angulon

5x7/13x18 (maybe 18x24)
121/8 Super-Angulon
210/5.6-370/12 convertable Symmar

8x10/18x24
300/5.6 Symmar-S MC
300/4.5 Industar-37 (impulse buy, havnt mounted it on a board yet)

I only had a 4x5 camera up until last week, Ill probably try to get hold of a 240 and something longer than 300 with "character" for 8x10 in the future.

 

[noseoil]

Marcus, the old 240mm G-Claron is a great wide lens for 8x10 if you find one. It is light, compact and tack sharp. I made an adapter board to let it go from my normal 4x5 camera (toyo type of lens board) to the 8x10 without having to take it out of the smaller board. This helps a lot for versatility. Can't remember the image circle, but it certainly covers 4x5 with plenty of movement and does 8x10 well also.

I forgot to mention in my original post that I have one of the Nikon 120mm macro lenses. I don't use it a lot, but it is a pleasure when the urge strikes. After thinking back on it, the most used lens I have is the Fujinon 125mm CMW. It has 200+ mm of image circle, which allows for some movements, has very good depth of field for the format and coverage and seems to be how I "see" things much of the time. While being a bit on the wide side, I've found the depth of field really helps reduce the need for complex movements and allows for a quicker set-up when necessary. tim

P.S. Ria came by yesterday afternoon with her "new" camera. It is a beast of a 12 x 20 Korona she got off of ebay this week. I'm trying to fight the urge to build or buy one now. Still toying with the notion of building one out of aircraft material a friend uses in his completion center.

 

[BennehBoy]

OK, I'm very new to LF and I picked up these 2 lenses to use with my Sinar P2 4x5:

Schneider APO Symmar 5.6/150 Linhof MC - Prontor Pro 01S
Schneider Super Angulon 5.6/90 Linhof MC - Prontor Pro 01

Are these pretty run of the mill, I bought them together so as I wouldn't end up getting confused by different shutters. I'm not sure whether I paid over the odds so would appreciate rough appraisals - will spill the beans afterward!

 

[Ian Grant]

Both excellent lenses, how much ?

Well I bought two similar lenses, well the 90mm was an f8 SA, both in Copals for £300. But some people will pay more for Prontors & as your 90mm is faster I'd guess between £400/£500 in total would be a good buy. Probably a little less $700-$800 if you imported from the US.

If you bought from a dealer quite a bit more but then they should have been tested & have a 6 month warranty.

Ian

 

[BennehBoy]

Maybe I paid a little over, £550 for the pair, they're both in superb condition though.

 

[loman]

185mm f4.5 ross homocentric from the twenties in barrel
Use it with my 5x7 norma. Love it. Couldn't ask for more